Ways to fix a window that won't stay closed?

[Mama Zappa]

The other day, my son said "why's the window open?" (we have things closed up / AC running). I looked, and sure enough the top part (it's the standard sort where you can raise the lower half, and/or lower the top half - think those are called "double-hung"). The top half was down about 6 inches.

I tried to push it up and it wouldn't go the whole way; I realized that it wasn't perfectly aligned with the tracks. It's one of those where you release a latch along the top edge (both sides) then you can tilt it in for cleaning. I managed to get it aligned, and pushed it all the way up - and it slid right back down. I tried to use the window lock thingy (like this (http://www.kilianhardware.com/phellkfit.html), only cheaper-looking) to hold the top half up, but the two halves barely touch. and 2 days later the top window had slid down again.

I'm thinking of dashing out to the hardware store and getting security bolts such as these lag screws (http://www.alarmsystemreviews.com/locks-for-double-hung-windows.html), but it'll look odd to have those on one window and not another, plus these are second-floor windows and not especially prone to breakins (front of the house, not hidden by anything, accessible only by ladder).

We could try repositioning the latch to hold the top half up better, but I'm afraid it would be so close to the original holes drilled in the frame that it would simply destroy the wood.

It's of some urgency, as we're supposed to have quite a bit of rain tomorrow from Hanna.

Any other suggestions? Should a window really slide down *that* easily even if not latched?

[KneadToKnow]

To get you through the storm, run out to Lowe's or Home Depot and grab two or three paint stirrers at the paint counter. Push the sash all the way up and wedge them in along the track to keep it there.

[3acresandatruck]

Yes, what you described sounds like a double-hung window (when the top sash is fixed, that's a single-hung window).

I've seen three different methods employed in double-hung windows to keep the sash in position. The oldest was having a chain attached to the sash run over a pulley wheel to a counterbalancing sash weight hanging in a pocket alongside the window.

One newer method is to have a slender braided steel cable attached to the sash on one end and to a tensioner built into the window frame at the other end. If you have that, and one end came loose, it's bitch to put pack on. (I'd hire a pro, but I've done it once.)

The windows I have now are held up by pressure from the side jambs; friction in the sliding mechanism, aided by the side pressure is enough to overcome the weight of the sash and hold it. If my windows were falling like yours, I'd hire someone to see if the jambs needed replacing (I just don't like to mess with windows much).

The suggestion Knead to Know made about shimming the sash as an interim fix isn't a bad idea. I'd use actual shims, as they're tapered and thus give you much better control over how much pressure you're putting on things. You can buy a pack of shims at the hardware store for a dollar or two. I'd shim the window along the top first (take it easy) and see if that holds.

[Mama Zappa]

Thanks - we'll probably try to do something with shims in the interim. I looked more closely at the window frame just now and the place where we'd install the lag screws is almost entirely taken up with the mechanism for the latches that lock the windows into the vertical position.

We'll see about having window professionals in to make sure everything is, er, "well hung" ;).

We may decide to simply replace the latches that lock the bottom to the top, as the one is very poorly placed (it was not installed straight, or possibly when the place was repainted a couple years ago it was removed and reinstalled wrong). That would at least ensure that the entire window would stay closed, even if it wouldn't solve the problem of the top one sliding down when it isn't latched.

A larger latch would work better anyway. Any recommendations for filling in the screw holes to permit us to safely re-drill holes very near, without splintering the wood?

[Harry1945]

A larger latch would work better anyway. Any recommendations for filling in the screw holes to permit us to safely re-drill holes very near, without splintering the wood?


Might sound a little weird, but a few drops of white glue and broken-off toothpicks packed into each screw hole. Wooden kitchen matches are better, though.

[Czarcasm]

Moving thread from IMHO to The Barn House.