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  #1  
Old 08-11-2012, 02:15 PM
dauerbach dauerbach is offline
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Dryer suddenly died

My Whirlpool clothes dryer died in mid cycle. Now it will not start, there is no indication that it is getting power. The dryer light does not come on. I am not certain whether it was working before or not, but suspect I would have noticed if it was not. Circuit breaker is fine. I took of the switchplate and the plug is fine to visual inspection. What is my next step in diagnosis?
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  #2  
Old 08-11-2012, 02:37 PM
KneadToKnow KneadToKnow is offline
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220 or 110?

Are there 110 dryers?

Googled: yep.

Last edited by KneadToKnow; 08-11-2012 at 02:39 PM..
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  #3  
Old 08-11-2012, 02:42 PM
KneadToKnow KneadToKnow is offline
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Also, I've used this site in the past to help get me to the problem with other appliances.
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Old 08-11-2012, 02:45 PM
TriPolar TriPolar is offline
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Does this dryer have an electronic control panel? Those can have a fuse or fusable link that can blow. If you have a multi-meter or voltage detector you can take off the back and see if there's power past the plug. Some chance you are in for an expensive repair bill, but it could be as simple as a loose connection. It's undoubtably 220 volts, be very careful, don't even open the back if you don't know how to do this. 120 is just a tingle. You'll definitely remember a 220 shock for the rest of your life, which hopefully will be longer than a few seconds.
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  #5  
Old 08-11-2012, 04:08 PM
dauerbach dauerbach is offline
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It is 220. I know where the circuit breaker is so this should not be a problem.
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  #6  
Old 08-11-2012, 04:11 PM
beowulff beowulff is offline
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Probably an over-temperature cutout has tripped.
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  #7  
Old 08-11-2012, 05:27 PM
Crafter_Man Crafter_Man is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beowulff View Post
Probably an over-temperature cutout has tripped.
That's what I was thinking, too.

If you're familiar with electrical troubleshooting, you could open it up and poke around with an ohmmeter. A wiring diagram would be handy. Voltage measurements would also be useful, but I would not recommend making voltage measurements on a live circuit unless you absolutely know what you're doing.

Hopefully you have a lo-fi dryer with simple dial controls. Those are easier to troubleshoot.
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  #8  
Old 08-11-2012, 05:57 PM
Finagle Finagle is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beowulff View Post
Probably an over-temperature cutout has tripped.
And if that happened, I'd check the vent to make sure it isn't stuffed with lint.
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  #9  
Old 08-11-2012, 10:53 PM
dauerbach dauerbach is offline
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Using the site given by Kneadtoknow I figured out it was the door switch very easily. Thank you very much. How do I look up the part number so I can order it online?
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  #10  
Old 08-11-2012, 11:01 PM
aceplace57 aceplace57 is offline
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use your dryers model number.

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/Ap...rts/index.aspx

I only see one whirlpool door switch
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/Ap...ap2947161.aspx

Last edited by aceplace57; 08-11-2012 at 11:03 PM..
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  #11  
Old 08-11-2012, 11:13 PM
dauerbach dauerbach is offline
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Thanks. That is the exact part.
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  #12  
Old 08-12-2012, 11:25 AM
KneadToKnow KneadToKnow is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dauerbach View Post
Using the site given by Kneadtoknow I figured out it was the door switch very easily. Thank you very much. How do I look up the part number so I can order it online?
Holy crap, I provided useful information?
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  #13  
Old 08-12-2012, 11:47 AM
Digital is the new Analog Digital is the new Analog is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KneadToKnow View Post
Holy crap, I provided useful information?
Try not to make a habit of it. And above all else, avoid the temptation to start a "Ask the posted who provided useful information" thread.



-D/a
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  #14  
Old 08-12-2012, 12:20 PM
jtgain jtgain is offline
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Anyone else read the thread title and think that Congressman David Dwyer had died? Yes, I follow politics too much.
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  #15  
Old 08-12-2012, 01:41 PM
Wheeljack Wheeljack is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TriPolar View Post
120 is just a tingle. You'll definitely remember a 220 shock for the rest of your life, which hopefully will be longer than a few seconds.
Just in case anyone sees this and takes it literally, let it be said that 120 volts is quite capable of killing a person.
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  #16  
Old 08-12-2012, 01:55 PM
jtgain jtgain is offline
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Originally Posted by Wheeljack View Post
Just in case anyone sees this and takes it literally, let it be said that 120 volts is quite capable of killing a person.
Yes, but really you have to be an unlucky or unhealthy person for 110 (it's 110, dammit!) to kill you. I've been hit by 110 dozens of times and while I wouldn't call it a "tickle" you have to be in a bad situation for it to kill.
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  #17  
Old 08-12-2012, 02:27 PM
johnpost johnpost is online now
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being grounded well while having a path through vital body areas is a bad situation.
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  #18  
Old 08-12-2012, 02:34 PM
Morgenstern Morgenstern is offline
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A silly addition this late in the thread, but make sure you've unplugged the dryer before taking the back off, (or most likely, popping the top up). Even if you believe you've turned it off at the fuse box. Just to be sure....
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  #19  
Old 08-12-2012, 05:34 PM
gotpasswords gotpasswords is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtgain
(it's 110, dammit!)
110, 120, whatever it takes...

Normal household voltage is actually 117 now, but the acceptable range is anywhere from 110 to 125. If your power gets much out of that range, call the utility - a few years ago, I was getting 143. I called the power company, and they had someone at my house within two hours.

The standard was 110 decades ago as carbon filament light bulbs worked best at 100-110 volts, but metal filaments run better at a slightly higher voltage, so 120 was adopted. This also gave some leeway for transmission losses and heavy system loads - the power at my home is 118-119 in the morning, but it does sag to 111 in the early evening when the every air conditioner in town is running.
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  #20  
Old 08-12-2012, 07:36 PM
jtgain jtgain is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gotpasswords View Post
110, 120, whatever it takes...

Normal household voltage is actually 117 now, but the acceptable range is anywhere from 110 to 125. If your power gets much out of that range, call the utility - a few years ago, I was getting 143. I called the power company, and they had someone at my house within two hours.

The standard was 110 decades ago as carbon filament light bulbs worked best at 100-110 volts, but metal filaments run better at a slightly higher voltage, so 120 was adopted. This also gave some leeway for transmission losses and heavy system loads - the power at my home is 118-119 in the morning, but it does sag to 111 in the early evening when the every air conditioner in town is running.
Correct. But I've never heard anyone refer to it as anything but 110. It's sort of how a 2 x 4 is really only 1 1/2 X 3 1/2. It's still called a 2 X 4.
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