How hard is it?
What are the cautions?
What are the tricks?
I know engines, but only engines, not these newer systems and networks. I have a fair level of competence regading most things mechanical, is this something I should attempt?
All replies appreciated.
It can very from not too bad to the grand bitch of the known western world.
If you do not own a set of flare nut wrenches don’t even think about it. EGR valves have pipes with captured nuts on them. Think of the world’s largest brake pipe and you get the idea. Since the valve has exhaust gas running through it, the captured nut and pipe get frozen / corroded in place. If you try and undo the nut with an end wrench, you will deform the nut and it will never unscrew. Don’t evn think about taking an end wrench and cutting a gap in it to slip over the pipe, it won’t be strong enough. Also the pipes can be fairly large requiring big flare nut wrenches, I have seen some that take 1" and 1 /14" These wrenches are themselves quite large, and you get into no room to swing the wrench. If you have to go out and purchase these wrenches, it may just be cheaper to take the car to the shop (no I’m not kidding!)
rust penetrant and lots of it. The two best brands I have used over the years are Maltby rust disolving penetrant, and PB blaster. Spay them on the joint when warm the night before, then again in a few hours, and again before bed, by the AM you might have a chance with the flare nut wrenches. Did I mention you need flare nut wrenches?
Well my first question is, How do you know that your EGR vavle is bad? Fault code? Exhaust gas pouring out of it? The 18 year old kid driving the tow truck said so? It would be a prime son of a bitch to buy some real spendy wrenches, blow a good chunk of a Saturday, skin the hell out of your knuckles only to find the problem still exists. :smack:
Maybe not that bad. Most EGRs are secured with two nuts onto manifold studs. When applying the wrench, try a 1/8 turn in the tighten direction. Then reverse. If you’re applying great force, stop before you bust something and send in the lubricant. Honestly, I’ve never had to break anything to replace an EGR.
I’ve removed the EGR valve on three cars. Actually the first I didn’t remove, but I pondered removing it since it’s bad. It’s a 91 Mercury Sable, twin of the Taurus and probably the most like your car. The EGR valve is right there at the top and looks very easy to remove. The second is my Thunderbird LX, which has a normally aspirated V-6 engine. I swapped it and it wasn’t really hard. There could have been more room, but it was fairly easy with a ratchet and socket. The third car is my Thunderbird Supercoupe with a supercharged V-6. There is very little room behind it, especially with the PCV and vacuum hoses that run back there. I had a terrible time with it the first time I removed it. However, I realized that a swivel-handled ratchet with just the right length of socket works great, and now I can get the bolts out in 2 or 3 minutes. I haven’t actually removed the EGR valve from the tube connecting it to the exhaust though, which would probably be more challenging. However, no Ford is as hard to work on as a Supercoupe.
Anyway, I didn’t need any special tools to remove it, except for that swivelling ratchet on only the Supercoupe. On my LX, I used a regular ratchet and socket and a crescent wrench for the hose. Yes, it does get hot and the bolts can rust, but I’ve never had that happen. I say just take a look at it and decide for yourself.