I am enjoying my stay, but of course it can be frustrating and lonely. The quality of life in BG really depends on where you live…development hasn’t been particularly even. If I lived in Sofia or Plovdiv, quality of life wouldn’t be that different from the US. The biggest difference in day-to-day life is the food you can get…you can basically only buy the vegetables and fruits that are in season at the moment. Forget buying anything exotic, like limes or avocados - although you can get these in big cities. And different ethnic foods? No way. There are three Indian restaurants and a Thai restaurant in Sofia. Most big cities have at least one Italian restaurant. That’s it. My town has about ten restaurants and they all have basically identical menus.
Peace Corps is limited to American citizens, so I’m an American, of course. I haven’t run into any anti-American sentiment, although I also haven’t looked for it. As a non-political organization, PC Volunteers are forbidden to participate in Bulgarian politics, and it’s recommended we remain neutral on American political issues, too. Maybe if I went around talking about how George Bush was a war criminal, I’d hear more.
Yes, Bulgaria is very poor. Unemployment is high. The average monthly income is $200. Most of the basics of life are correspondingly very inexpensive, but stuff like electronics and international travel and nice clothes, that sort of thing, are about the same price, or more expensive, than they would be in the US. Most Bulgarians (that I know, anyway), have never left Bulgaria - which I understand is about the same size as Tennessee. My living allowance is almost exactly ten times less than when I made as a cubicle slave back in Chicago, and I’m paid twice what the regular teachers are. (That’s 100 euro a month; I have no idea how they live on that.)
Bulgaria is, though, probably the most developed Peace Corps country (along with Romania). We all have cell phones, most Volunteers have broadband internet at home, we can take hot showers (most of the time), etc., etc.
I don’t think there’s any nostalgia for the royal family. Communism, that’s another story.
I’ve had some decent wine here, but I have yet to have anything really great. Of course, I haven’t tried any of the pricier stuff, I make a Bulgarian salary!
Bulgarian is a Slavic language, like Russian. I don’t know Russian at all, so I can’t compare them really well, but I don’t think they sound much alike. Bulgarian has trilly rs like Spanish and sounds more sparkly than Russian, which always sounds to me like it’s being formed at the very back of the mouth.