Premium Gas

My friend just got a new car that only takes premium gas (takes = the manual says you can only use premium gas). I’ve always thought that premium gas was rip-off and that the difference between the regular and premium was negligible (like 6 octane). Then I think, “You know absolutely nothing about gas and/or cars and you have no idea what the hell an octane is”. So, what’s the deal with premium gas, is it worth it or is a scam?

Partly scam IMHO. Premium fuel may be required to get the manufacturer’s advertised horsepower and performance. However, your friend should be able to put lower octane fuel in his car, and the computer will compensate by changing the engine parameters. If the engine knocks or doesn’t run well, stay with premium.

If you have a computer. :wink: The manual for my '66 MGB says to use at least 97 octane fuel, and recommends 100 octane. Obviously that’s at least impractical, if not impossible. I haven’t driven it as much as I’d like, but it seems to be running well on premium fuel. My first '66 MGB did need premium fuel, at least on hot days. In the winter it would run on regular, but in the summer it would ping on lower grade fuel.

Related question: Someone told me recently that premium gas is a waste of money. He said it’s cheaper to use bottled octane booster in regular gas. True, or false?

That should be simple to figure out. Just multiply the number of gallons a bottle of octane boost treats by the price difference at the pump for 87 vs 91 octane fuel.

On a quick look, Amsoil sells their boost online, and it works out to 59¢ per gallon treated, not including tax or shipping. The price difference at the pump is almost always 20¢, (around here, at least) so the bottled stuff is very costly compared to just pressing the 91 button on the pump.

The Master speaks.

Thanks! I searched the forum but forgot about the straight dope articles! :smack:

As Cecil says, if the manual says use premium, then use premium. The danger is that lower octane fuel with result in detonation which can knock small pieces of metal out of the cylinder head. You apparently have a high compression engine and they need a high octane fuel.

I once had a BMW and there are several in the family now. They most definitely need premium fuel. I once filled up and put regular in by mistake and I realized that something was very wrong just from driving it before I realized what I had done. It ran but power and performance were very noticebly reduced immediately.

Same thing with Shagnasty’s BMW’s as my Lincoln. The anti-knock sensors lets me put in 87, but the manual “recommends” 91. Previous years required 91 as apparently they didn’t have anti-knock sensors. Horsepower’s reduced only slightly; the V8 performs quite well for my needs at the reduced level, and I’m a foot-to-the-floor type of driver. Fuel economy is reduced as well, but the math still works out in my favor. I think I’ve got all of the calculations detailed in another post here somewhere.

You could always try mid-grade if the 87 doesn’t work out.

(Of course I say 87 because that’s the base fuel I’m used to. Coming across the country last year, it seemed that 86 was the base fuel in the higher altitudes. Fuel-air mixture and all that).

I wrote this for a BMW message board I frequent. I’m sure I got something wrong, but I think it is correct in general.

Actually you got a bunch wrong.

You got that right.

You get 1/2 credit. :slight_smile: There are two types of detonation pre-combustion and post combustion. You correctly described post combustion. Pre-combustion detention is caused when either the fuel air charge is heated past its self combustion temp, or there is something inside the combustion chamber that is glowing red hot and acts like a glow plug (sometimes a carbon deposit can do this, or the wrong spark plugs)

Volatility has nothing zero, zip to do with octane rating. As far as the amount of energy contained in a given amount of fuel is concerned may I quote our perfect master:

Up to here you are doing just fine.

This is incorrect. The spark plug typically fies quite a ways before Top Dead Center (TDC) for the piston, so that maximum pressure is reached at 5-10 degrees after TDC. When the computer detects knock, it retards the timing so that the piston fires closer to TDC, but I doubt under any conditions would it fire after top dead center as your post would tend to indicate.

Well you came back strong here.

With this I agree completely.

No, no, no. Octane rating has nothing to do with volatility. Regular and premium have very similar volatility. Here is some info from Chevron

Agreed, and Chevron has this to say about this:

**

BTW Chevron has this to say about knock sensor equipped engines

From here (page 3 to be exact)

If the fuel burns, it is, a)pre-ignition, b)normal ignition, or c)late ignition.

If the fuel explodes, it is detonation, either pre or post TDC.

A lot of small aircraft engines can be totally ruined in less than 30 seconds with sever detonation.

YMMV