Help changing blades on riding mower...

[RancidYakButterTeaParty]

I feel incredibly stupid not being able to figure this out, but I "inherited" a Cub Cadet riding mower and I think the blades need changed. I simply have no idea how to access the blades. I tried to get some information from their website--but found nothing useful.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[Rhubarb]

I don't have a Cub Cadet, but on my riding lawnmower, I prop the wheels up on cinderblocks so I can access the undercarriage. It's not a particularly difficult or fun process.

[A.R. Cane]

I've never owned a Cadet Cub, but I've had several riding mowers. First you should disconnect the spark plug, to ensure it can't be started while you're working on it. Then elevate the front wheels on some solid object about 8-12 inches high and block the back wheels, so it can't roll off on you while you're working.
Get on your back and see what you're dealing w/, most mowers will have one bolt holding each blade to it's mounting. You'll want to determine the right size wrench and not use pliers, or an adjustable, because you don't want to damage the bolt head, a box wrench is best. You should be able to hold the blade w/ one hand, while removing the bolt w/ the other. If it won't break free you may need another set of hands. Some blades can only go on one way, but many can be put on backwards, so note which way the cutting edge is facing. These blades are good for many sharpenings, so it's unlikely they need replacing.

[Xema]

A.R.Cane's advice is sound. Most of the blades I've dealt with have been secured by a single large nut, which is removed in the way suggested.

With a suitable grinder you can indeed get many sharpening cycles out of a blade. It's a good idea to check that blades are reasonably well balanced after they are sharpened. And you do well to grease the bearings at the same time.

[Siam Sam]

Just make sure the mower is not running when you try to change the blades.

[Booker57]

The best way to remove the very tight bolt or nut is with a air-powered impact "gun", the tool used to take the tires off your car. Proper sized socket and good air pressure, one long pull of the trigger and off they come. I love power tools.

Lacking the fun stuff leaves you with hard work. Long breaker bar and a short 2x4 to hold the blade. Righty tighty/ Lefty loosey. Most of the time. YMMV.

[Joey P]

Originally Posted by A.R. Cane

I've never owned a Cadet Cub, but I've had several riding mowers. First you should disconnect the spark plug, to ensure it can't be started while you're working on it.

Really and truly you should disconnect and remove the spark plug. The reason is that while you're working on the blade you'll most likely rotate it around as you try and find away to steady it. As you do this you'll run it through it's four cycles (or two). When it gets to the compression stage it'll compress the air in the cylinder and once you get that piston past TDC it's going to spin on it's one through the power cycle. If this catches you off gaurd it can cause a major injury. If the spark plug is REMOVED, there's no compression.

[Rhubarb]

Originally Posted by Joey P

Really and truly you should disconnect and remove the spark plug. The reason is that while you're working on the blade you'll most likely rotate it around as you try and find away to steady it. As you do this you'll run it through it's four cycles (or two). When it gets to the compression stage it'll compress the air in the cylinder and once you get that piston past TDC it's going to spin on it's one through the power cycle. If this catches you off gaurd it can cause a major injury. If the spark plug is REMOVED, there's no compression.

Or, as in my case, you disengage the blade clutch so the blade spins freely.

[Black Train Song]

There's absolutely no reason to have to get underneath the mower at all. You can disconnect the belt that powers the blades and remove the whole assembly that holds the blades with three or four cotter pins. Then you slide the housing out and flip it upside-down and work on it that way.

[A.R. Cane]

Originally Posted by Black Train Song

There's absolutely no reason to have to get underneath the mower at all. You can disconnect the belt that powers the blades and remove the whole assembly that holds the blades with three or four cotter pins. Then you slide the housing out and flip it upside-down and work on it that way.

That's certainly an option, but all the riders I've owned required a bit more than you describe. I've always found it much easier to remove the blades as I described above.


As to Joey P's suggestion, of removing the plug, he clearly overlooks the belt drive system and it's disconnect device. Even if the belt drive were engaged, it's unlikely that you would turn over the engine by rotating the blades, more likely the belt would slip. It's just not as complicated as some want to make it. I can remove both blades, sharpen and reinstall them in about 30 minutes w/o breaking a sweat.

[Joey P]

Originally Posted by A.R. Cane

As to Joey P's suggestion, of removing the plug, he clearly overlooks the belt drive system and it's disconnect device. Even if the belt drive were engaged, it's unlikely that you would turn over the engine by rotating the blades, more likely the belt would slip. It's just not as complicated as some want to make it. I can remove both blades, sharpen and reinstall them in about 30 minutes w/o breaking a sweat.

I suppose I should mention that I wasn't referring to a ride on mower, but a regular walk behind. The kind where the engine shuts down when you let go of the bar. These don't have a clutch for the blade.
After this happened, some of the local radio DJs where talking about it trying to figure out how it happened and his friend (that was saw it happen) called the radio station. The guy had tipped the mower back and was sitting a little to close to it (well, alot to close to it I guess). He spun the blade around trying to get it into position to work on it and when it went past the compression stroke it swung around by itself and grabbed his penis. It apperenty caused internal damage all the way up to his shoulder.

[A.R. Cane]

Originally Posted by Joey P

I suppose I should mention that I wasn't referring to a ride on mower, but a regular walk behind. The kind where the engine shuts down when you let go of the bar. These don't have a clutch for the blade.
After this happened, some of the local radio DJs where talking about it trying to figure out how it happened and his friend (that was saw it happen) called the radio station. The guy had tipped the mower back and was sitting a little to close to it (well, alot to close to it I guess). He spun the blade around trying to get it into position to work on it and when it went past the compression stroke it swung around by itself and grabbed his penis. It apperenty caused internal damage all the way up to his shoulder.

Looks like a Darwin Award cabdidate to me. Yes, it's always better to take as many safety precautions as possible, but in practice a bit of common sense is usually enough.

[A.R. Cane]

I'm having trouble figuring out how he got his penis caught in the blade of a riding mower that was "up on blocks". Sounds akin to contracting an STD from a toilet seat.

[Joey P]

Originally Posted by A.R. Cane

Looks like a Darwin Award cabdidate to me. Yes, it's always better to take as many safety precautions as possible, but in practice a bit of common sense is usually enough.

Are you saying I shouldn't keep my balls above the blade or I should keep them there? Me confused?!.

But seriously, if you have a mower without a clutch, it's not a bad idea to take the plug out.

[Black Train Song]

do whatever you want.......but why lay underneath the mower when you can easily remove the blades without laying under it?

[R. P. McMurphy]

It's also helpful to have a short length of 2 x 4 to wedge between the blade and the housing. It will keep the blade from turning while you undo the bolt. Grabbing the blade with your hand to keep it from turning can potentially result in a cut on your hand or arm.

[Mr. Duality]

You can get ramps like these but much less expensive at your local auto parts store. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000M1H4WY/...Y&linkCode=asn

Blade balancers are cheap and are available at your local hardware store. See 4th item down: http://www.foley-belsaw.com/Sharpeni...r%20Blade.html

[A.R. Cane]

Originally Posted by Mr. Duality

You can get ramps like these but much less expensive at your local auto parts store. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000M1H4WY/...Y&linkCode=asn

Blade balancers are cheap and are available at your local hardware store. See 4th item down: http://www.foley-belsaw.com/Sharpeni...r%20Blade.html

I have auto ramps, their not much good for a riding mower, it's too short and the ramps are in your way when you try to work on it, although I guess you could use the back side and lift the mower wheels up on the ramps. I have a piece of RR tie that I use, but a couple of concrete blocks work just fine.

[Cervaise]

Originally Posted by Siam Sam

Just make sure the mower is not running when you try to change the blades.

Whaddaya mean? Fastest way to get the blade off the mower is to stick a socket wrench on the middle nut and fire that sucker up.

[R. P. McMurphy]

Originally Posted by Cervaise

Whaddaya mean? Fastest way to get the blade off the mower is to stick a socket wrench on the middle nut and fire that sucker up.

If you're going to do that, why bother to remove the blade, just fire 'er up and stick the file down there. You can sharpen the blades in no time.

Disclaimer: Kids, don't try this without parental supervision. Adults, make sure the video camera is on so you can be a famous on YouTube.

[Mr. Duality]

Originally Posted by A.R. Cane

I have auto ramps, their not much good for a riding mower, it's too short and the ramps are in your way when you try to work on it, although I guess you could use the back side and lift the mower wheels up on the ramps. I have a piece of RR tie that I use, but a couple of concrete blocks work just fine.

I suppose that would depend on the design of your mower. With the deck in the raised position I only need a few extra inches of clearance to remove my blades. I wouldn't try to lift the front end without mechanical assistance.

[Ring]

I call the local full service mower dealer. He comes and picks it up for $20 and does whatever needs to be done. usually runs me around $60. Very safe, very easy and not too expensive.

[RancidYakButterTeaParty]

Thanks for all of the advice--now I just need to find the time to get this done.