[QUOTE=rbroome]
my favorite locksmith story (and I believe it is true) is “bouncing” a vault door. A locksmith friend of mine sells and maintains stand-alone safes. Think gun safes as that is most of his business. He was called to a home where a large safe just wouldn’t open. The husband had tried the night before and couldn’t get the door open. He told his wife to cal the locksmith that day and went to work. So the locksmith shows up, listens to the story, gets out a large rubber mallet, gives the door a solid wack and the door pops open. He says it is a surprisingly common event. The combination had been successful, but the metal pins hadn’t aligned properly. Once bounce and the door pops open. He lubricated the door and was on his way. Didn’t tell me how much he made, but the expression on the wife’s face was priceless!
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Ha! I did this about 3 weeks ago on a GSA container. On modern safes (key change mechanical such as LaGard and Sargent Greenleaf) sometimes the wheels are dialed and are off just a slight bit, vibrating the lock, most times by smacking it with a deadblow hammer or rubber mallet, shakes the lever into place. On a Mosler hand change (still found on quiet a few Safes) The wheels are mounted on the back cover plate. If the screws get loose the cover starts to pull away from the lock body and will set off the relock trigger (a security feature to prevent someone punching the dial) Hitting the safe and turning the wheel at the same time will vibrate the trigger in long enough to allow the bolt to engage and work.
A history note: Older safes originally had solid brass wheels with a U shaped notch called a gate where when alligned correctly allowed the fence to drop and then pull the bolt back. It was discovered that placing a vibrating device (such as a modern day electric toothbrush) on the dial would vibrate the wheels. The heavy part of the wheel of course will rotate to the bottom. If the fence was at the top of the safe, Lo and Behold! safe is open. Some safes who had their fences mounted on the side would be tipped over on their side then vibrated open.
To correct this, they did many things, The fence was moved off center, there were additional holes were drilled thru the brass wheels to rebalance the wheel.)
S&G in the early 50’s tried a serrated brass wheel, which actually made things worse, and is a rare find these days.
Now that I have babbled a bit, if your still with me I shall share a personal story which your post reminded me of.
I worked for a company that required someone to be on call after hours. One night around 1 or 2am, The police called me out to a potential murder scene to open a gun safe. Not the kind of call I care to run, I hate spending an hour or two opening a safe, when I could be asleep. Once on sight, the simple gun safe is actually a jeweler safe from Europe standing 6 feet tall and one very bad mother fucker. This is the kind of bastard that requires drilling thru the side of the door using a very long 90 degree scope to view the wheels to.. anyways the worse bitch in the world to deal with, expecially when there is a dead guy in the next room and it is 2 am.
I get to eh safe and notice the dial is not moving. Someone had locked the dial with a key. I picked it open (dial locks are usually very easy to pick) then turned the wheel and clunk the safe is open. The idiot had day locked the dial, which is dialing the safe open and just before turning the dial to retract the bolt, you turn a key and lock the dial. This is a system once used in many grocery stores to gain quick access to a safe for making change.
A beast of a safe, yet locked with a fricking 4 wafer lock.
That is like having a heavy steel door with multiple locks to keep your home safe, then putting a plastic dog door in.
It was determined that the man had shot himself, at the time they suspected robbery gone bad, since he was known to have a very expensive gun collection.
It ended up being just a suicide.