Ask the Professional Cooks

In a Pit thread titled Hell’s Kitchen and it’s [sic] Viewers, I mentioned being a professional cook and this was posted:

So I figured, why not?

First off, my post that lead to his response:

So to start off, Kitchen Confidential and Bourdain. First of all, it’s important to say that Bourdain is not regarded by cooks or people with food knowledge as a great or creative chef, as people sometimes think because of his high-level of name recognition. He is, however, hero to a lot of line cooks for his balls-to-the-wall style of writing and existing. What do I think of his books? As a cook, I find his books to be entertaining though it’s fairly easy to determine:

  • what’s ridiculous but true,
  • what’s exaggerated for effect,
  • and what’s totally made up.

Now, I’m not holding the exaggerating against him; it makes his books more interesting and if anything it really marks him as a cook. I remember coming into work one morning and having the morning prep guy relate to me a tale of the previous evening and the hijinks and someone throwing a bottle at him which he punched out of the air. I nodded, and smiled, and laughed to myself at the comic book visuals. But this guy wasn’t even trying to impress me - it’s just the nature of the kitchen environment, the cook’s version of ‘biggest fish’ stories. Anyway, I enjoy reading Bourdain’s opinions on Food Network personalities and enjoy No Reservations when I catch an episode. Ran into to him in Paris a few months ago and chatted to him and yes, he still does the Bourdain strut even when he’s not on camera.

Background on me? 24, female, been cooking for 4 years. Background in butchery, with a current focus on pastry.

So ask away. I put “cooks” plural in the thread title because it seems there are others on the board and I’d love if they added their input. Everyone’s experiences are different. If you’ve got specific questions about cooking certain dishes feel free, but I think the thread would be more interesting and informative if the discussion was more about the world of professional cooking and not just the dishes.

Hypothetically, lets say that I, an untrained but fairly skilled home cook wanted to follow in your footsteps. How would I proceed? Culinary school? Some kind of apprenticeship programs? Just get hired in some chain restaurant, develop my skills and try to work my way up the ladder?

What cool tips can you give a fairly accomplished home cook to make my food just that much better? I mean, besides the basic “don’t buy shit ingredients” and “veal stock and butter makes everything taste better.” I figured those two out on my own :smiley:

Oh cool - thank you for doing this! I have to run right now, but look forward to reading this.

  • What tools do most everyday cooks not use that they should have?

  • What tools do you require, and which look bitchin’ ;), but which civilian cooks really don’t need?

  • Joy of Cooking or Bittman’s How to Cook Everything - again, for civilians?

  • Are most kitchen workers ADD, rogues, ex-con’s or basically outsiders - or has the MBA cook with TV and restaurant deals changed the kitchen from Times Square in the 70’s (very dangerous) to Times Square today (touristy with big names)?

Alright, in order:

Hmm, fairly skilled? Don’t worry about culinary school. Expensive, and everything it will teach you you could pick up on the job just as well. Apprenticeship would be ideal. Chain restaurants can teach you a few things, but might just teach you bad habits; I’d almost say you’d be better to have no restaurant experience than a chain place (for my purposes, chain place means something like TGI Fridays or Chili’s). If you’re talking about fully throwing yourself into the restaurant business, the best thing for a home cook with basic skills? Find a nicer restaurant, ask to speak to the chef. Lay it all out - what you think you’re good at, what you do very skillfully, the fact you have no professional experience but want to learn and want to be a cook. Ask to come in and do a stage (unpaid work) for a night. You’ll probably wash a lot of dishes but you’ll see how it works. If you don’t get too in the way and you like what you see, ask if you can stage for a week, two weeks, whatever you can afford to do. You’d probably be shadowing the person working garde manger station, cold appetizers and salads. Your work won’t be glamorous. If you do well over the two weeks or how ever long, ask the chef if he or she needs a cook (or dishwasher - they’re often called upon to help out with prep!) or if he or she knows anyone who needs a cook. There’s a decent chance someone might. From my experience, jobs often go to the person who happened to be in the right place at the right time. If you’re just starting out, you’ll probably fuck things up at least once and be on the wrong end of a spirited rant. If that upsets you, or seems unfair, you’ll know you’re not in the right business. If it inspires you to work harder, and to find solace in a beer at the end of the night, you’ll probably be okay. There’s a lot to it obviously but that’s my advice for starting. You need to know if it’s right for you before making any further plans.

Uhh, veal stock and butter? You pretty much got it! I would say flavour balance. Home cooks often neglect the bitter and acidic components in dishes - in general, you want just enough that they’re not really noticeable but the salty and sweet components are highlighted. But saying that, what flavours do you like? I love bitterness in food. So dialing that up while keeping sweet and salty notes in the background makes my food better for me. But i don’t do it when I have dinner guests over. Hmmm, there’s so many things it’s hard to think of one or two. Is there a specific aspect of your cooking you’re wondering about improving in some way?

Where did you get your training?
How did you go from butchery to pastry? Which is harder?
What happens to the dish someone sends back, or doesn’t hardly touch?
does the kitchen help eat it, or does it get thrown away, or recycled the next day?

Not really. I’m just always on the lookout for stuff to incorporate into my own cooking. Small things can really add up, as I’m sure you know.

What do you use to amp up bitterness? I’m actually pretty good with acid, I learned long ago that a squeeze of lemon at the end is often a very, very good thing. And salt. Too often, people are afraid to salt things adequately.

Actually, that leads to another good question - what are good “adjustment ingredients” to keep around that you can throw into food towards the end of the cooking process to enhance certain qualities? Like limes/lemons, which seem to be absent in a lot of kitchens, but really are a great thing if you get used to squeezing them into stuff.

Most important tools: good sharp knives. You don’t have to break the bank, go out and buy a good 8 inch chef’s knife in the $80 to $120 range, and a good paring knife. That’s not a lot to spend for a good, solid, last you a few years knife, You often see sets of Heinkel or Wusthof paring and chef’s knives for decent prices. Does indeed make a difference! Outside of that, it really depends on what you’re doing. I consider a microplane, a tool for grating and zesting, to be absolutely necessary, but that’s just me. The Vitamix super high powered blender will never not be in my kitchen, but it’s a big investment. A big honkin’ wooden cutting board, like a few inches thick and larger than a placemat, is essential to me. A good fine sieve, a chinois, is important for texture. I could go on… it’s hard to narrow it down, even just for at home!

Required, bitchin’ tools for me at work? I need a blowtorch for pastry, and also for burning hairs off pig’s faces. You simply cannot stand in front of a pig’s head, holding a lit blowtorch, without feeling pretty awesome. But at home? Only necessary when I’m working with pig’s heads, which is increasingly rarely, as I’d never make crème brûlée at home because ew.

*Joy of Cooking *or How to Cook Everything? Hmm. Older versions of the Joy have a lot of information, but also assume you know a lot of things that were common knowledge to 1930s housewives but are not really common background info for home cooks anymore. Like, “This is what you do with the rabbit/raccoon you caught out back, presuming you know how to skin and clean it”. Newer versions have a lot less of that information, sadly, and are pretty dull all around. I like Bittman and how he writes and if it was between How to Cook Everything and a current version of Joy of Cooking my choice would be How to Cook Everything, hands down.

As for your last question - depends on the kitchen. A lot of those rogues you mention often end up working in kitchen because no one else will hire them - they’re very common in the industry, but more often at pubs and chains, not at higher end places. I can’t say I’ve never been in a situation where a very sketchy character is working on *garde manger * in a nice restaurant because he happens to be the saucier’s drug hookup, but it’s not really possible to keep those who can’t work to high standards around. So as long as you’re an ADD coke dealer who has great plating skills, you can get work anywhere! :stuck_out_tongue: The kind of people who are only working to afford their next hit simply cannot survive in high-end cuisine. The Food Network syndrome has strongly affected the industry, in my opinion, mostly because people who watch Food TV and then decide they want to be a TV cook and then go to school usually have no idea what kind of world they’re getting themselves into. Said people usually end up working for cupcakes businesses, or the like. All in all, it’s not glamorous work and if you can’t hack it, you’ll be fired, plain and simple.

Thank you, AutumnLeaves, for starting this thread. I would love to share my knowledge and stories from my 10 years of culinary work.

After highschool, I decided that I didn’t want to go to college, so I spent a year making $7 an hour managing a Dairy Queen and living in my mom’s basement (that sounds so cliche, but it was true!). After a year of that, I stunned my mother by announcing that I was going to Culinary School in Portland, OR. She wasn’t stunned because I finally decided to do something with my life, but because she barely knew how to cook, and never expected me to pick that as a career.

So I moved 12 hours away to live with my father (though not in his basement… he didn’t have one) while I went to school. For spending money, I took a job at an Elmer’s (Denny’s-like joint). So while learning about tournes, béchamel and forcemeats, I was flipping eggs and microwaving prime-rib dinners. Looking back on that time, I think I learned more from the turn-n-burn atmosphere of the chain restaurant kitchen, then I did from the zero-pressure-kitchen-classroom.

I took a 6-week externship at a northern Idaho resort as the final test of culinary school, and I came out of it with a job offer from their “fine dining restaurant,” though Idaho’s culinary standards are about a decade behind the rest of the country. I moved up the ranks from pantry, to grill, to saute, to chef de tournant, before I finally decided to leave.

I moved to Colorado for more job opportunities and took a job at a real fine dining place in a historic (and haunted) hotel (no, not The Stanley, the other one). This place had the attitude that AutumnLeaves described, though it wasn’t so quiet. We criticized everyone else’s knife cuts, but we did it with a humiliating joke or a running gag. We busted the “new guy’s” chops everyday, until he proved that he knew his shit. We competed over minced shallots and brunoise root veg. We bragged about hitting steak temps to within a degree of “perfect” medium-rare. We prepped everything every other day or three days at most. When I started, the chef told me the system: if you didn’t prep it yesterday, throw it away and do it again. Once again, I worked up from Pantry, to entremetier, to saute, and then I was promoted out of the restaurant to Saucier for the entire hotel. I would have taken the job of chef de tournant (and been groomed to take over the next available chef de cuisine position), but I decided to go to college…

After dropping out of college, The restaurant I worked part-time at (a semi-fine dining bistro) tanked, and reformatted as a family dining place. The owner offered me the well-paying Kitchen Manager job, and I took it. This was night-and-day different from my previous jobs, but I found satisfaction in running the kitchen. It was an adjustment working with line cooks that didn’t know how to blanch vegetables, and didn’t AUTOMATICALLY wash their hands and refill their sanitizer buckets as soon as they came in. It took me some time to understand what they could pull off on the high-volume line. Tuna, scallops, pan sauces… no way, at least, not at first. Of course, we still had the same customers from the bistro, and they wanted the same quality of food, but didn’t want to pay for it. So I found ways to sell some kick-ass, fine dining level food at low prices. We figured out how to microwave risotto and have it taste good. We sold duck breasts by pre-rendering the skin at super-low heat. And we learned how to do pan sauces consistently! All of this alongside hamburgers and frozen fish-n-chips.

So, here I am with 10 years of varied restaurant experience, ready to walk into just about any sous chef job, and maybe even an executive chef job.


But I’ve never seen a single blow job in the walk-in.

So if I may answer some of the questions from my point of view…

Alpha Twit,
Don’t bother with culinary school unless you want the credentials needed for a high-end joint. Get a job in a successful restaurant or a hotel. A stage is a good way to get in the door, but not necessary, in my opinion. A hotel will have multiple kitchens and a variety of levels of cuisine, and lots of diferent chefs to learn from.

Athena:
My favorite Chef Instructor from my culinary school taught me some tricks about learning how to season your food. Take a small amount of a sauce or soup, or anything, and taste it. then add a tiny bit of salt, and taste it again. then more salt, and taste it again. keep doing this, and you will experience the range of flavor from under-seasoned to properly-seasoned to over-seasoned. Train your mouth recognize these qualities. ANother trick that goes hand in hand with this is to learn the balance of flavor between bitter, salty, sweet and sour. Flavor is a complicated balance of power on your tongue, and the more familiar you are with the effects of each ingredient, the more successfully you can season your food. As for what ingredient to add, it depends on what is already in the dish. generally, you don’t want to ADD bitterness but just balance out the bitterness that is in your ingredients. For example, I recently put roasted Brussels sprouts on a special. They came out boring and bitter (from the charring), but a splash of white balsamic vinegar brightened the flavor. The bitterness took a back seat to the rest of the flavors, and became pleasant and subtle instead of overwhelming. Finally, the last trick is to analyze your recipe’s ingredients for their purpose. Everything should be used for a reason, whether it is for seasoning, texture, aromatics, mouth feel, etc. When you know WHY you are adding each ingredient, you will understand the effect it can have on the overall dish.

salinquid:
If you send something back, we usually toss it and start over. Sometimes, if you only wanted it cooked more, we can do that to save time, but you will still get fresh sides/sauce/garnish. I love to yell at the wait staff for eating off unfinished plates before they clear them at the dish station. Its disgusting, but people are pigs. Even assuming the guest didn’t even touch it, I can’t serve it to someone else… I think there is a health code restriction on that, but I’m not feeling up to digging through the FDA food code to find it.
**
WordMan**:
You know those immersion blenders that you can make smoothies and vinaigrettes with? We have bigger ones that shake the walls when you use them. We lovingly call them “boat motors”, and I think you could sail a boat with one! Also, A walk-in cooler would propel any amateur home cook cook to culinary-nerd status. SS gas ranges, dedicated prep sinks, convection ovens and high speed dishwashers have made it into home kitchens, I don’t know why no one has a walk-in.

Do you like Cooks Source magazine?

I’ll chime in as well. I went to cooking school and worked briefly in the kitchens of Joachim Splichal in Los Angeles before heading to Napa to expand my wine knowledge. I ended up doing more FOH stuff and food-and-wine writing. I went to cooking school late in life (mid-30s) and knew I wouldn’t have the stamina to do what Autumn Leaves describes. I did it for a year and it almost killed me.

I totally concur with the Joy of Cooking (original edition) as a great resource. And butter cannot be discounted. Even a small pat of butter in a pot of chili can make a huge difference in mouthfeel.

And I loved Autumn Leaves’ account of Tony Bourdain. I hung out (and made out) with him just as he was finishing writing his first book. But that’s another story…

Holdholdhold whaaa??? Details girl!
Ok, my question: Is this a career? How old do you see yourself doing this until, and what will you do next?

I can’t imagine myself at say 50 working til 3am and 3 days on 3 days off. But maybe that’s me?

Tony Bourdain was a regular in an AOL chat room and message board back before anyone knew who he was. I still have some of the cooking tips he posted.

Quoted for use by someone as a sig line.

**Autumnleaves **- thank you; all makes sense; I can’t see myself need to torch a pig’s face, but otherwise all very practical!

**Amblydoper **- that boat motor idea makes sense for a surprisingly useful tool.

Good stuff, this thread.

One more question for the chefs if I may.

I watch a lot of cooking shows. Quite often these TV chefs display impressive knife skills such as peeling and fine chopping a bushel of potatoes in a matter of minutes. Is this just interesting TV or is this actually representative of the level of skill of good chef should be able to display?

Can you give me any hints on perfecting my knife skills? As with so many other things, it seems best to concentrate on technique first and then it’s just repetition, repetition, repetition. Speed will come. Anything you would add to this?

What’s the one thing that I shouldn’t order in a resturant?

I’m a trained cook – culinary school, 10+ years in the field doing everything except the hot line – and I quit when it dawned on me that 1) as much as I was addicted to the adrenaline, I knew I could never continue living off it indefinitely, and 2) I had no life outside of that kitchen – I’d come home, eat, sleep, and go right back in there 6 days a week, sometimes working a double.

Let’s put it this way: What Tony wrote about in KC isn’t too far off the mark. Yes, it’s a bit exaggerated, but I could actually pigeonhole coworkers into particular passages. And no, I never caught anyone giving/getting a blowjob either.

Food retail (I’m a baker for a supermarket chain now, going on 20 years) isn’t much different in some ways from restaurant work. The adrenaline is still there to produce produce produce and get it out there so you can make a profit. I work a kind of a “line”. I’ve done overnights, early shifts, late shifts, whatever. I get holidays off, but I rarely enjoy them because I’m either recovering from the previous day or I have to be in at the crack of dawn the day after. I still don’t have much of a life outside the place because I’m either sleeping or recovering. It really does get tougher the older you become. It’s really a young person’s game.

Thai restaurant: “How spicy, one to ten”.

I’ve ordered a dish as a 4, while my date got it as a 5. We traded tastes and could tell the difference. How do they do it?

:smiley:

I laughed, I admit it.