After ''super glue'' what is the next fastest drying glue for crafts?

After ‘‘super glue’’ what is the next fasted drying glue for crafts? Actually looking for something cheaper. Super glue would be fine but as I recall it is expensive. I want to glue many small pieces of bamboo into a something that looks like a model bridge.

Hot glue has a pretty quick cooling time, but can be messy. They make hot plates that keep a cup of it melted, that lets you use a small implement to pick it up and apply it to the surfaces to be glued (or just dip the end of the bamboo piece in it.)

Bonus: They make glow in the dark glue. :smiley:

Hot glue is clearly the answer.

I hate super glue. It never works for me.

You could use the hot melt glue as suggested, but sometimes messy.

You could purchase 5" epoxy in twin 4 oz packs and that’s pretty cheap, but you have to keep mixing.
My third choice is a product that has been around for decades called Seal All. They sell it with the glue and sometimes in the automotive area. I find the nozzle a bit large for tiny projects. The exact same produce is sometimes available in the housewares department for sewing projects. This product is clear and dries quite fast. The manufacturer is Eclectic Products. If you see this name on the back, it’s probably the same product. The reason for searching in the sewing area is because it comes with a pinpoint nozzle that is more efficient and wastes less.

If I were going to build a scale bridge, I would use a particular brand of superglue. It’s called “Zap-a-gap”, and you can find it at most hobby stores or Amazon. It’s thicker and stickier than the watery stuff they sell in the grocery store, and will make extremely strong joints in wood. Radio controlled airplane people use it to build planes. A small bottle goes a long way, and lasts a lot longer than the stuff from the grocery store.

To make it kick (dry) faster, you can get commercial zip-kicker stuff that you spray onto the joint, or you can sprinkle some baking soda onto it when you have everything held together the way you want it.

Do we have any dentists here who can contribute? I bet dental adhesives are awesome.

When we build models in architecture classes, we typically get Elmer type glu (casin type glue) pour a blob out on a tray or piece of cardboard. Let it dry some - it thickens. Then take your wood piece and lightly dab it into the thickened glue. Just a tiny amount is needed. It will dry relatively fast.

Usually I get super glue and an accelerant (a brand is zip kicker).
You use the super glue on the key support pieces. The second you spray accelerant on it, it sets.
By doing the support pieces, you don’t need that much (you shouldn’t be using that much anyway - a bottle typically lasted at least 1/2 a semester for me). Test the wood first as the accelerant might stain it. Let it dry first before deciding. This might be pricey for you but it, by far, the quickest set method.

Don’t use hot glue. The webby strands are horrible! Also, it’s not very strong (it doesn’t bond all that great with slick finishes (which the bamboo might have).

I used to work in architectural model making so if you have more questions, fire away!

Tacky Glue is like Elmer’s, but thicker. If you spread a thin layer and let it set for a few minutes, the bond–though not instant–is tolerably quick. I’ve seen instant-set glues for paper in craft stores, but never used one. It might be worth a try; it seems as though they cost around $4-5 US.

Sometimes but not always, the tacky glue can be too thick. It depends on how precise the project is.

I don’t know how appropriate it was for the job, but in my architecture class back in high school (quite a while ago) we used Duco Cement to glue everything together.

We were making architectural models out of foam board and balsa, and that cement seemed to work nicely.

These days, if expense weren’t a major concern, I would definitely look at the more interesting forms of super glue and accelerant, like Babboon said.
They make the stuff in thick gel form that can fill gaps and has a relatively nice working time , and a quick shot of accelerant freezes everything in place.

Moving thread to Cafe Society, where all the artsy crafty stuff abides. From IMHO.

It really matters what kind of craft you’re talking about. Paper craft? Watered down white (Elmer’s) glue dries in minutes. For jewelry and such, epoxy glues have set drying times. You can get anywhere from a 2 minutes to 5 hours.

I mostly use hot glue for sticking on large things to even larger things because it hardens into a hard and noticeable blob, not good for delicate work. Spray adhesives are good for putting decals on walls and such because you can slide stuff around on it to get it just right. Clear mosaic glue is the only thing I’d use on glass mosaic.

Pretty much it depends on what you are gluing for which reasons.

But be careful with this. It’s exothermic. I remember once setting a tine paper chair I was making for a model on fire with just zap-a-gap and zip kicker.

Here you go- this stuff is great.
http://www.testors.com/product/137221/3503X/_/Extra_Fast-drying_Wood_Cement

It may be a bit pricey for you, but I bet it’s competitive to the ones other posters listed here.

Doesn’t sound like you are shopping for Super Glue in the right place. I can get three small tubes (2 grams) of superglue at the Dollar Tree for a buck.

My bottle of Zap a Gap lives in my craft basket, when it’s not traveling with me.
I does have the down side of rapidly gluing your fingers to your project if you use too much though.

I’m not a dentist, but I know something about the adhesives they use and they are cool, but not cheap. They usually use visible light curing adhesives. The light cure gives you plenty of time to work with the adhesive and then just zap it with a light gun when you are done. I mostly was looking at the adhesives for electronics assembly, but I spent some time looking at the stuff at dental supply sites and the light guns were pretty expensive, although the price was coming down if you searched on the right places on the web. The newer light guns used high intensity blue LEDs.

I’ve done something similar on a lathe (the watery kind makes a nice finish for pens) with paper towels and my finger which resulted in a burning paper towel firmly glued to my now-burning finger. Friction acts as an accellerant as well!

I use E-6000, a clear, thick gel for my crafting needs. It dries relatively fast and hard. A little goes a long way, so it doesn’t turn out to be expensive.

This is very true. I had a friend burn his hand quite seriously this way.
Also it is worth to mention to make sure you are in a well ventilated room.