Just finished the book. It took me more than a year - I'd read a chapter or two, realize I wasn't terribly interested, and then go read something else. I did that several times before finally getting to the end. I don't know about you, but for me it's not a good sign when I flip ahead to see how many pages are left, and then am all too keenly aware of how many pages I still have to go. A Dance with Dragons was too big, plodding, not enough happened, etc. - I'd agree with most of the criticism already offered in this thread.
I wanted a lot more about Brienne, although it's nice to know she's still alive. Good to see Cersei humiliated before all of King's Landing. Reek's chapters were suitably appalling. I liked reading about Arya learning to be an assassin (even though the description of her first assignment was muddled). Tyrion continues to be entertaining - can't wait to read about him as a sellsword; I'll wager that he'll be in charge of the company in a few months. Jon Snow's stabbing, and Ser Kevan's murder, were both good, big surprises.
But if I have to read the phrase "much and more" just one more time, I swear, there's gonna be blood on the snow....