My boyfriend has just landed an awesome job just outside Chicago, so as of August this year, I will be moving back into the Chicagoland area. I grew up (age 0-17) in Evanston, but since I went away to college I have only been home every few years (especially since I went to grad school abroad).
Due to the location of the job, we’re looking to move to Oak Park, as it seems to be the best option: interesting, diverse, on public transport, etc.
I write to SDC to ask for any and all hints and tips about Oak Park, the neighbourhoods of Chicago which are nearby, and anything interesting to do in the Western Suburbs. [A related question, possibly in need of another thread: what’s the real estate situation in the area? Would it make sense to buy in Oak Park for the investment?]
My parents still live on the north side, so I’m pretty familiar with what it looks like these days, but despite my long tenure in the area, I’ve never really had a chance to explore the city itself, or other towns. I’ve, of course, done all the usual tourist things (I’m fairly sure I’ve been to the Art Institute 15 times, never gets old!) and in high school anyway I spent a lot of time going to plays, but I don’t know much about the theatre scene now; is it as good as it used to be? What unusual Chicago scene might my teenage tourism and theatrical interests mean I overlooked?
My boyfriend is particularly interested in the music scene, and we are both keen to explore unusual food-zones (markets, interesting-though-not-too pricey restaurants, &c).
Sorry for the long post, any and all info/personal experiences of this sort will be appreciated!
Since you ask about nearby Chicago neighborhoods and mention public transportation, the Chicago neighborhoods adjacent to Oak Park are collectively known as the West Side Ghetto – one of the worst parts of the city. Remember that the ‘L’ lines make many stops in this section between Oak Park and downtown. Metra runs more or less non-stop, but the schedule isn’t nearly as frequent (particularly on weekends).
Is the suggestion, then, not to take the blue line into the city, but go for the Metra instead? Are people frequently mugged on the ‘L’? I used to ride the red line a lot and never saw anything amiss, but admittedly that would have gone through better neighbourhoods…
Most Oak Parkers feel comfortable taking the Green Line. Not quite as many feel comfortable taking the Blue Line. But crime on the L is not particularly rampant. Occasional iPhone or purse snatchings.
I’ve been riding the Green Line from Oak Park to the Loop every weekday for 7 years and have never even seen a single incident.
Before that I took the Blue Line for 4 years - again not a single problem.
Granted this was like from 8am there and 5:30pm back on weekdays. I don’t think I suggest it late at night, but during the rush hours there are too many people around for any real trouble.
I’ve lived in Evanston, and visited Oak Park a few times. I find them very similar in style and feel. You’ll probably feel very at home there. Regarding real estate, I don’t know anything specific about the market in Oak Park, but overall now is a great time to buy.
I concur about the Austin neighborhood just to your east. Not a comfortable place even to pass through. The big story in the news right now is about a cop who was killed there a few days ago.
I rode the Blue Line from downtown to the Forest Park terminal (end of the line) every weekday for 12 years (until a few months ago, when I changed jobs). Saw a handful of incidents (mostly purse-snatchings and, recently, iPhone grabs). I’d concur, you’ll probably be just fine during rush hours. On the rare occasions when I’d have to work really late, my company would pay for a cab ride, so I opted for that.
Metra is, indeed, a lot more comfortable, and makes fewer stops, so if the schedule and station locations work for you, it’s well worth considering.
My wife and I lived in an apartment in Oak Park for 3 years when we were first married (right on Madison Street, just east of Oak Park Avenue), in the mid 1990s (we moved to Brookfield when we bought a house). Definitely a diverse neighborhood, even at that time, though I concur with Alley Dweller – you don’t really want to wander too far east from there. The downtown Oak Park area had some good restaurants and shops, though I think that the chains have taken over a bit, especially out along the western end of Lake Street.
The best local music in Chicago, to me, is still the blues. Check out B.L.U.E.S. on Halsted, Buddy Guy’s Legends, Rosa’s (West Side) and Lee’s Unleaded Blues (South Side).
Best record shop: The Jazz Record Mart! They’ve relocated (more than once) since I started going there (when it was at 7 W. Grand) in the mid-'60s, when I was in high school. Personnel are all hip to the local jazz & blues scene(s) … and they even stock 78’s
It does look like I’ll be looking to buy at this point. It seems like prices are in the extremely reasonable range, though I know I need to do more research on the specific neighbourhoods.
Re: public transport, sounds like the general consensus is it is OK except late at night? I’m looking for work, but I doubt that should be a problem in terms of commuting in my field. If so, I can deal with taking the occasional cab if necessary.
Any info about the food situation? I know OP has a farmer’s market, which is great.
We will definitely be checking out the Blues.
I promise not to walk around wearing my Cubs gear unless I am on the north side!
I think you can live in Oak Park and be a Cubs fan. After all, it’s all about diversity there! I have relatives who moved up from St Louis and get kidded about the Cardinals gear, but no one is lighting crosses on their lawn.
I forgot which western suburb it is, but Berwyn or Forest Park or someplace else I’m blanking on has a wonderful collection of restaurants. And then there is Fitzgeralds in Berwyn for live music.
Ok, party pooper here–I just don’t get Oak Park. I live in Evanston and love it. To me, Oak Park is like Evanston with a worse dowtown, worse surrounding areas, no college to keep bars/restaurants/retail active, and no lake (which is the big kicker for me, I love sailing in the summer). I guess real estate is cheaper in OP v. E (ehich says it all, really), and some people like the proximity to O’Hare (but I think E is just as close really), but I still don’t get OP’s appeal.
Rand, in our case it’s a matter of commuting distance. I love Evanston too, and would absolutely consider living there if it made sense, but for a job in the western suburbs, Oak Park seems like the best bet. The real estate question is still there. I’m a bit worried if we go the condo route that we’ll never be able to sell… and I’m not sure that I’d be satisfied with the quality of house we can afford right now.
Does anyone have any other insider tips on OP or Berwyn? We’ll def. have to check out Fitzgerald’s.
Ok, got it–OP definitely makes sense for people working west–getting there from evanston would suck. I don’t mean to bag on OP too much, I have friends there that love it.
