BBNP: Ever Been? (Big Bend National Park, in SW Texas)

Last month I got back from a road trip with my mom (she’s 77), a trip from San Francisco to L.A. to Austin and Houston and back. We took many detours as we avoided the Interstates as much as practicable. Driving Miss Daisy, or Bonding with Mama (but don’t throw her from the train) - 9 states & 7,100 miles in 3 weeks. A great trip, and we saw a lot.

BBNP was one of those detours and it’s a fantastic place. It was my second time there, the first was in the fall of 2009 with my wife when we stayed in the Chisos Mountain Lodge for a couple of nights, and that is nice. This was my mom’s first time. BBNP in March 2016 was great, but in the summer BBNP would probably be a little too warm. Santa Elena Canyon is gorgeous, and Boquillas Canyon is picturesque. Taking the West and East River Roads is an adventure along that high-clearance, 4X4 trail across the park. It is 50 miles, end to end. My mom wanted to do it, and I went slow on the bumpy parts. Mom’s a real trooper. We were just passing through, so it was a quick drive-through. I must return to spend more time and do some hiking. Maybe also take the boat across the Rio Grande from Boquillas Crossing (Alpine County TX) into Mexico to spend the day in Boquillas del Carmen and Rio Grande Village - is there anything good to see or do there?

About Luna’s Jacal, Castolon, and Maverick Road (dirt road, well graded): On our way out of BBNP, heading to Fort Stockton, I got gas at the (Fina?) station in Marathon. It’s the station right at the intersection where NB US-385 Ts into and dead ends at US-90 (to continue north you have to jog east on 90 a little before picking up 385 N again). Anyway, chatting it up with the gentleman who said his wife owns the station, he’s maybe 70 years old and he’s a little bit of living history (Aren’t we all?). He said he remembers when he was about 5 years old, and when his family would drive from Terlingua to Castolon, his family would stop in at Luna’s Jacal and visit with the old man himself, Gilberto Luna. The dirt Maverick Road was the only road to Castolon, before the paved road was built. And then in Castolon, the Alvino Residence is one of the oldest buildings in the park, dating to 1903. It belonged to the gentleman’s grandfather.

It was very cool meeting this gentleman whose Alvino Residence belonged to his family, and who knew Gilberto Luna first hand. Luna died in 1947, at the age of 108 or 109.

So, BBNP. Have you ever been? Do you like it, or not? What do you like to do there?

BTW, if you approach from the west and drive through Valentine TX at night, watch out for the many bunny rabbits crossing US-90! Yak! I crunched a couple of the poor li’l furry guys. :frowning:

My parents took me on a road trip through Texas and then Carlsbad Caverns in 1972.

We drove through parts of Big Bend. Stopping at a couple road side attractions. One had rattlesnakes behind glass. Saw huge fire ant mounds, several feet high and ten or more feet across. We also stopped at the Judge Roy Bean museum. Big Bend is beautiful unspoiled country.

Finally crossing into New Mexico to visit Carlsbad Caverns. The first half is a guided tour that ends at a big store inside the caverns. Then theres another optional section you walk through on your own (following the asphalt pathway) Thats a lot of walking. at least three hours of it. Both my parents were sore for several days afterward.

Been there a couple of times. I love the place. Especially Santa Elena canyon. There used to be a place across the river we would go to to eat. We’d swim across and hike into a little community on the other side. Good times. Spent a lot of time hiking the outback there, too.

Be sure your car is serviced and in great condition. Texas is huge. You drive endlessly with the AC on full blast. Its tough on a car.

Maps are misleading. oh, we’ll drive over there and see that. Three hours later you arrive. :smiley: Everything in Texas is spread out. You can drive for hours without seeing a big town.

I spent a week or so at Big Bend and had a great time. Camped at Chisos Basin, Rio Grande Village and Cottonwood. I was rather taken aback to see javelinas and turkey vultures cruising through the campgrounds scavenging the trashcans and getting at food that people had left out–I was more used to squirrels and raccoons.

It was cicada season when I was there–it was so weird riding my mountain bike out in the middle of so much empty space–they were so loud I wished I had earplugs. One highlight of my trip was soaking in the Hot Spring at sunset.

It’s not just huge…it’s like Donald Trump Yuuuuuge.

Old driving saying. The sun has riss…the sun has set…we ain’t out of Texas yet. I’ve driven the whole east/west span of Texas on I-10. Holy e crap.

For anybody going there, and in particular anybody planning to go there. Dark skies. VERY dark skies. If you haven’t seen the night sky in a DARK place this your big chance. If you are ever going there try to do it near the time of a new moon, and if not new moon, at least not earlier than about last quarter so you’ll get some dark time in the evening. And if your time of year to go there is fairly flexible, also try to go when the summer milkyway will be up, or if in the winterish time of year, the winter milkyway. Get thee to an internet astronomy forum. Ask for advice if going there. Unless you have no soul or sense of awww you will not regret seeing the night sky like it should be seen.

Of course this advice goes for a lot of the middle of nowhere kind of places in Texas/out westish.

Nice to know about that hot spring. I’ll put it on my list for next time. Thanks!

It’s been many years since I was there last, but I’ve had a few really great trips to Big Bend. Some highlights:

Camping in the Basin. Nice views, amenities nearby, critter sightings in the campground, and nearby trail access.

Hiking the South Rim Trail. A pretty exhausting hike if you do it in a day (12 miles up and down a mountain), but the view from the top is SPECTACULAR. Seriously, one of the most gorgeous views I’ve ever seen.

Boquillas - A small town across the river in Mexico. We rode across in a leaky little boat for a small fee. Got some drinks and tacos and trinkets in town.

La Kiva - restaurant/bar in Terlingua. We camped for a few days next door and spent our evenings at La Kiva. Good food, atmospheric, and great live music. I think they may have closed for a while, but are back open?

The towns of Marfa and Fort Davis are in the area and are worth a look. You can visit the McDonald Observatory for a daytime tour or a nighttime viewing party. Marfa, for some reason, has become quite a magnet for artists of various stripes.

Near the top of my list for must-see national parks.

Has anyone been to BBNP and also GUMO (Guadalupe Mountains National Park)? I’ve never been to BBNP because GUMO also affords great privacy (since it isn’t visited very much) and sweeping views if you are willing to climb up 2000+ feet. And GUMO is so close to Carlsbad that it is easy to do both, or just sleep in GUMO for the price and quietness!

Perhaps they are for different things: BBNP more for the hardcore desert experience and GUMO is more for those wanting a good hike in the mountains.