Well, if you’re not going to read informative posts, why are you complaining?
It’s not necessarily absurd, but it’s unrealistic. That car is nearly 20 years old. I doubt any of them have shown up in dealer service bays for quite some time.
If you would bitch less and read more, maybe you’d understand why the brake discussion is germane. There’s not a car on the market that can overpower its (properly functioning) brakes from a stop. Not one. NOT ONE. If the engine is racing and he can’t keep the car stopped, then something is reducing the effectiveness of the brakes. E.g. The brake booster isn’t getting sufficient vacuum because of a vacuum leak.
And, if you would fuck off more and suck less the world would be a better place.
Seriously, why is this such a hot topic debate? I asked if anyone had any experience with this type of issue. What I got was people who obviously had no first hand experience but wanna wave their dicks around and shown how amazing their mechanical ability is. Why is everyone so fucking hung up on the brakes? I’ve already explained that I clarified the issue with the car’s owner and the car can not in fact overpower the brakes. If people can’t read the relevant posts I have no use for this thread. NOT ONE.
To the 735 people who read the OP and decided that they had no idea what could be the issue - thanks. Your non response was the correct one.
::slight hijack::
On a mostly unrelated note… Many, many moons ago I had a '70 Chevy p/u that developed a broken motor mount on one side, (I forget which) and when you romped down on the gas, the motor would jump up and the throttle would stick until the forces involved allowed the motor to settle back down, at which point the throttle would ‘unstick’ itself.
When you’re only 17 years old and just learned how to drive, that kind of shit is scary, to say the least! :eek:
I don’t see any explanation that you clarified the issue with the owner.
I don’t follow that you “explained…the car can not…overpower the brakes.” Explained to whom? Did you mean to say you explained that the car did not overpower the brakes? When? Where?
I did see this: I talked to the guy again. He was sitting at a light. When the car started to rev, he popped it into neutral and that’s when the tach jumped up to 5K. Is this what you’re referring to? It doesn’t contradict the statement in the OP that he “had to throw it into neutral to stop the car from taking off through a red light.”
If you’re trying to say you told us that the statement in the OP was wrong, and that there never was any kind of issue with the brakes, and that’s why you’re upset with the replies, then I have to reply that you did NOT in fact tell us that said statement was wrong.
We can read what’s written. We can’t read what’s left out.
How else would I be able to argue the merits of the modern brake? Or to discuss the horsepower of a toyota camry?
Sorry, that was a bit snarky. Here’s the real answer:
Honestly, I haven’t a fucking clue.
If a passing mod wishes to close this disaster, feel free. I won’t be back. I guess you guys can start your own thread about brakes and toyotas if you want to discuss it further.
I have a pair of F-bodies from that era. LT1 powered cars like the 94 corvette. the throttle blade is linked to the pedal by a cable. based on the strength of this particular surge, it sounds like the throttle is being opened. a vacuum leak would have to be immense to take a car up near redline like this.
could be the cruise control servo twitching, as it was mentioned earlier the car is nearly 20 years old.
I have a 94 corvette with an auto and have spent alot of time lately tracking down the source of the very same symptom. After alot of research and posting on my corvette forum, I am getting close to the solution and a better understanding of what causes this. I’ll try to make it short. And you’re right, it doesn’t have anything to do with the brakes.
My car was surging badly and stumbling at idle after it got warm. I replaced the plugs, wires and fuel filter and it ran pretty well until it got warm and then it would surge. Not quite as bad as before but it was still there. I checked the plugs and wires in the dark while it was runing, and found a loose plug wire and a cracked plug. Replaced the plug and reinstalled the wire, and it ran much better, but still surged a bit when warm. I then, cleaned the MAF sensor, the Idle air control valve and the throttle position sensor. Again, it ran well and seemed to have better driveability, but still surged when hot. I checked all the vacuum lines, sprayed carb cleaner around the vaccum lines, etc when running and all vaccum lines appear to be good. I then cleaned the EGR valve. Ran well, but still surges. But not as bad. Something is still causing the computer to increase the idle speed. I then replaced both front O2 sensors. The driveability got much better. The engine accelerates smoother and the idle is better, but there is still a surge and stumble at idle and a hesitation when accelerating when the engine or engine bay gets hot. I have also replaced the MAP sensor, which can also cause this problem because it is directly related to manifold vacuum pressure. Problem is still there. When the engine gets hot and the outside temperature is hot, like over 90 degrees, the engine also hesitates and looses power when accelerating. This is definitely a temperature sensitive problem, and I think it is more related to the engine bay and ambient temperature being hot, than just the engine warming up.
I think I have it narrowed down to the fuel pressure regulator. I am replacing that next to see if it clears up. I read on my corvette forum that someone had the same symptom and it wasn’t because of the engine getting hot, but the engine bay and the fuel pressure regulator getting hot. If the diaphram inside the fuel pressure regulator has a leak, it will show up when it gets hot and expands to open up the leak. He replaced the fuel pressure regulator, and the problem went away.
As you can see, I have replaced or cleaned quite a few sensors and parts to find what the root of the problem is. The reason I have replaced or cleaned all the items I mentioned is because any one of them can cause something like this to happen, or a combination of the above. My next move will be to replace the ignition coil and module. These can also cause a variation of this to happen when hot due to the expansion of a small crack.
This car is 18 years old and all of these sensors need to be replaced anyway. Most of what I have mentioned is not very expensive to replace and can be done by yourself. The spark plugs and wires are not easy though, and costly at a shop.
I have heard that a varitaiton of this problem could even be due to the Opti spark failing, which is not cheap to replace.
After I replace the fuel pressure regulator, I’ll post if it clears up the problem. If it does, then I’ll know that it was the main source of the problem to begin with.
Let me know if you have any questions Brewha, I’ll try to answer what I can. This is a frustrating problem, that is hard to track down and if I find out what caused it in my car, I’ll sure let every body know what it is so you don’t have to pull all your hair out trying to figure it out! :smack:
I thought about your specific surging problem a little more, and I think yours may be related to the Idle Air Control valve. The IAC. This little device controls the idle on the LT1 engine. I’d start with that. Pull it off, clean it and see if the problem goes away. If it doesn’t clear up after cleaning it, the IAC may need to be replaced or one of the other sensors, vacuum lines, etc. I’d check the Throttle position sensor too, clean it and see if that helps. As I said before, the car is 18 years old and all of the sensors either need to be cleaned or replaced by now.
A stumble could easily be the OptiSpark, i’ve had to replace quite a few of those. But a surge, not as likely. A faulty IAC could also do it. I don’t agree that all the sensors need to be cleaned or replaced by now, however… There are a truckload of sensors on these cars and the vast majority of them would have to be working for the car to be driveable. 99% of them are still working on my two LT1 powered cars, although many of those have failed over the years and been replaced.
I agree Henshao, you don’t necessarily HAVE to replace all the sensors. I made that statement more from my “point of view” from working on my car and the driveability. Clearly, most of the sensors on my car are functioning enough to allow the car to run fairly well most of the time. What I noticed when I started to try to track down the problem, is that after I replaced or cleaned any one of the sensors i mentioned, the car ran a little better. After I replaced the fuel filter, it ran better, the plugs and wires, it ran better, cleaned the EGR valve, it ran better, replaced the O2 sensors, it ran much better but there’s still a small surge and stumble at idle. In other words, the parts I replaced were functioning enough for the car to run, but rather poorly. When I replaced the O2 sensors, there was no “check engine” light on, and the car ran okay. After I replaced them, there was a noticeable difference in the throttle response and acceleration.
Brewha can do whatever he wants with his car, but from my perspective, I’m going to try to go through my car and replace most or all of the sensors and ignition parts including the optispark, but on my time and terms, not when something completely fails and I have no choice. (like the optispark!) Ugh.
Given the fact that the car is 18 years old, I just think it’s prudent to replace these parts. I’m looking at all of the connectors too. My MAP sensor connector was crumbling when I replaced the MAP sensor, and i replaced it too.
I had a Ford Escort that used to do that. Scary as hell. After a bunch of mechanics I scoured the internet and found the problem - it was the idle air bypass valve. It was a $45 dollar part that bolted to the top of the throttle body on the Escort. Or it could be cleaned with carburetor cleaner.
