NYC area Dopers, a plea for advice

[Richard_Parker]

Unless you’re really gung ho about the Statue of Liberty, skip it. It’s not worth it. Instead, take the Staten Island ferry. It’s free, you can drink on it, and it goes right by the Statue. Once on Staten Island, immediately re-board the ferry and return. Nothing good can come of strolling around SI (except for decent donuts).

Pick up a copy of Time Out New York. It’s a pretty good guide to everything that’s going on. There’s usually some special events going on any given weekend that are interesting (and frequently free). It also includes current museum exhibits, etc.

Most people here are out-of-towners, many of whom have only been here a few years. While there are some who will give you an odd look if you smile at them, most will smile back. I have found a lot of the stereotypes about NY to be true, but not the one about eye contact and small talk. Maybe it’s just me.

[A_Priori_Tea]

Wow!

There are too many to take individually, so I’ll just say - thank you all very much! This is exactly the sort of information that I don’t think I could get from a guide or review site, and it’s really extremely helpful. I am really happy I got pointed to this place; it’s amazing what first-hand, obviously intelligent informers can teach you. Any of you lovely Dopers who wants to hit me up for a drink while I’m up that way, my email is in my profile.

(I really am boggling. I mean, I knew y’all were smart and helpful, but this is just awesome. I <3 smart people!)

[Annie-Xmas]

If you like musicals, go see Forbidden Broadway. Highly recommended.

And Junior’s Cheesecake is very very good

[miamouse]

@AHunter3

A couple of things that “everyone knows”:

• Long Island, Brooklyn, and Queens are all the same freaking island. The two eastern-most counties (farthest from Manhattan) are not part of the city and are actually called “Long Island”. The two western-most counties are divided from each other at a sharp angle (there’s a huge bay taking up the southeast corner and the dividing line runs from there to the northwest), so on the subway map it’s not at all obvious that Brooklyn is the westernmost county of Long Island or that Queens is the one to its east, or that either of them have diddly squat to do with some entirely other place called “Long Island”.

So if you’re flying into JFK or LGA, they’re in the city, but on the island of Long Island, and cab fare from there to midtown where the Waldorf is, is a set amount ($45) plus tolls, but not including tip. Here’s more info on cabs.

[AHunter3]

OP is actually touching down not in LGA or JFK but Islip/LaGuardia and therefore will land in Long Island.

[Hello_Again]

@AHunter3

OP is actually touching down not in LGA or JFK but Islip/LaGuardia and therefore will land in Long Island.

Islip/Macarthur.

LGA is the code for LaGuardia, which is in Queens.

[Hello_Again]

Just one more thing to add. Its just something I thought of. Penn State is an extremely busy station where Amtrak, Long Island Rail, New Jersey Transit, and two subway lines all converge. It would be considered a, um, “strategic target.” Thus there is a large NYPD presence patrolling, but also armed National Guardsmen in fatigues. Also, there are some k-9 teams, I think these are NYPD but they might be Guardsmen (maybe both). Sometimes there are spot bag searches in order to enter the waiting rooms.

The dogs are all unbelievably well behaved and the officers & guardsmen generally friendly. Feel free to ask the NYPD officers for directions as long as they are not actively apprehending a criminal – but they don’t know a thing about the LIRR schedule as a rule. (their main desk kind of looks like an information desk, creating confusion).

So, anyway, the presence of the police and the military in the station does not mean there is any imminent threat or that there is any state of high alert. Just business as usual.

[yearsofstatic]

Maybe check out the New York Pass. One day pass to a whole bunch of major NY stops for 65 bucks. Could be a deal if you feel like running around to a whole bunch of things in one day. If you want a more slow-paced exploration then it’s probably not the best way to go. And don’t be afraid to take one of those bus tours of the city. I’ve never done it in New York seeing as I grew up there, but I’ve found that they give a decent outline of the more popular attractions in a given city especially if it’s your first time around. And Time Out New York is probably the best thing you can pick up while there (Just thought I would second that). Just use common sense and you’ll be fine.

[AHunter3]

@Hello Again

Islip/Macarthur.

LGA is the code for LaGuardia, which is in Queens.

That’s what I meant. My brain was thinking Islip/Macarthur and I typed Islip/LaGuardia which is a nonexistent place.

[Merkwurdigliebe]

People will give you the spiel about “Avoid all eye contact” and “Don’t look like a tourist” it’s kind of true and it kind of isn’t. The only way you’ll look like a New Yorker is if you’re in a hurry to get somewhere, which is stupid for a vacation. That’s probably the number one trait for blending in, be in a hurry. You don’t actually get like that until you have travelled back and forth from work or wherever a few times to actually be able to do it correctly.

The subway will be hell with a lot of bags. Secondly, Penn station is on the west side, so it’d be difficult to get over to Park Ave. and 49th (?). It would involve at least one transfer. Save yourself the grief and get a cab, it won’t be more than 15 dollars.

Having never been in a big city before, be prepared for a shock! New York is probably the crazy-busiest city (Manhattan at least) of any I’ve ever been in. I’ve been in large cities in Europe too, but it’s not the same. It’ll hit you like a ton of bricks when you leave Penn Station (which is underground). It took me a few days to adjust to the pace the first time I came here.

Stuff to see? There’s tons to check out, all of it’s okay. My favorite of all of the touristy things is Grand Central. Don’t know why…

But yeah you won’t be able to not look like a tourist, just try to stand out of the way when you stand still on sidewalks. But regardless of anything you do, people are used to the worst tourists here anyway, so nobody will say anything if you do.

I’ll second the thing about giving directions. New Yorkers love to be asked for advice. Things are also less dangerous than they may seem. A lot of people take cabs everywhere because they’re afraid of the subway. That’s really not necessary…

One important thing to note. If you get on a subway car with someone who is talking to themselves, (probably a drunken bum), do yourself a favor and switch to another car at the next stop. Better to do that than trying to ignore him the whole time.

Also, don’t be afraid of Brooklyn and Queens. A lot of places there are actually more laid back than in Manhattan. All of the crazies tend to hang out in Manhattan, more so than residential areas of Brooklyn, in my experience.

[Rachael_Rage]

@A Priori Tea

I’m a bit of a drama whore, so shows always appeal - I am going to be hunting for tickets to anything that looks interesting on payday. If you know of small shows or houses that are doing anything interesting in the first part of the month, recommendations are always welcome!

You want to talk to me. I am on the management team of an Off-Broadway theater not far from your hotel. But it so happens the first week of January is our dark week. If you’re there after the 10th I definitely have some recommendations.

Also I second the motion that you avoid the phrase “Can I ask you a question…?” This is a sure way to get a dirty look. Get to the point and quick, don’t seem crazy or like you’re selling something, and people should be happy to help.

However, don’t assume that what they tell you is correct. With all the best of intentions, I have given people completely wrong directions and didn’t realize it until they had walked away. Even natives still have to ask “is this going local or express?” sometimes. Best to get as much info as you can out of maps, signs and “change of service” posters, then ask 2 or 3 people to confirm what you think is right. And don’t freak out if you go the wrong way and end up in Queens (unless you *want *to end up in Queens…). Just get off the train and go back the other way. But be sure to look at your map a lot and look increasingly more alarmed as the train gets farther from Manhattan. That amuses us.

The most confusing part for me is when you come up out of the subway trying to figure out what direction you are facing. Most stations have really good street maps on the wall of the immediate area around the station. Study that to get an idea of the streets to look for, then go up the stairs (and after stepping out of the way of the people behind you) and ask someone “is 5th avenue this way?” We are used to that.

[Caricci]

Great advice about the escalator and the Staten Island Ferry.

Too bad you’re going to Islip - it wouldn’t have been my first choice. In fact, it’s so far out on the Island, lots of people who live nearby are afraid of Manhatten. But it’s not impossible and JFK and LGA are not so easy to travel from either.

As far as looking like a tourist, hey, it’s a tourist destination. Locals aren’t always in love with that fact, but there it is.

All that talk about mugging in the Odd Couple? That was 30 years ago. It’s not so prevalent, but I WOULD worry about pick pockets and watch bags and pockets carefully.

[Octalcode]

@Merkwurdigliebe

Also, don’t be afraid of Brooklyn and Queens. A lot of places there are actually more laid back than in Manhattan. All of the crazies tend to hang out in Manhattan, more so than residential areas of Brooklyn, in my experience.

You’ve got a lot of information here, so I’ll just throw in my 2 cents. You’ve got to see Brooklyn. My son lives there (Bay Ridge) and it’s like you would picture New York. Just walking on 3rd, 4th or 5th between 70th and 86th street will be a pleasure. Very friendly, and nowhere nearly crowded as Manhatten. In Manhatten, you absolutely must see Little Italy, and Greenwich Village. If you like comedy, I recommend Comedy Cellar on MacDougal St. in the village. Have a meal in little Italy on Mulberry St, and don’t worry about which restaurant is the best. They’re all good. Have a great time and take lots of pictures. You’re not going to forget this trip for a good long time.

[Rachael_Rage]

More theater advice…

Do a little research on nytheatre.com, IMO the best resource for NY theatre big and small. They review tons of shows and their reviews are well-written, knowledgeable and (in my opinion anyway) usually spot-on. It is a great way to decide which of the dozens of little off-off broadway shows are worth your dime. Also the Access Theater downtown - which I have no personal involvement with besides seeing a show or two there - is a good bet for quirky, quality indie productions (average cost=$18/ticket).

Another thing I thought of is that NYC is to a surprising extent a cash-only town. You can use your Debit and Credit cards at big stores and chain restaurants, but the corner bodega - which you may use more than you expect - almost never accepts cards, and may refuse large bills, especially if you’re paying for a pack of gum with a fifty. Though this is less of an issue than it used to be, a number of mom-and-pop restaurants, diners and bars are still cash-only establishments.

ATMs - especially those those located within said cash-only establishments - bleed you dry with fees of 2 or more in many neighborhoods. One secret is that McDonald's usually has the cheapest ATMs, most with .99 fees. You don’t have to eat there to use the cash machine. If you have an account with Chase you’re in luck because there is practically one on every corner. Bank of America and Citibank are fairly common as well. Find out where your bank has ATMs and plan accordingly. Forget traveler’s checks - these will only invoke fear and alarm in your cashiers.

Yellow taxis technically are supposed to accept cards but many drivers still fuss if you try it - you’ll have an easier time for longer trips but if you really have no cash on you, look for taxis with a TV screen in the back seat. This means they have a GPS/Credit Card setup which is pretty easy to use (provided it works) and will probably give you less hassle if you have to pay with a card.

Speaking of transportation, I agree with whoever said you should walk everywhere, provided you are able-bodied it’s not sphincter-clenching cold. It may look far on a subway map, but I normally prefer to walk from Madison Ave. to the 8th Ave. subway rather than take the closer train and have to switch. If your destination is within a couple of subway stops it will probably be faster and more comfortable to walk than take any other type of transport, especially at rush hours. In any case, opt for comfort in footwear over fashion - you will end up walking more than you think.

Another thing on taxis: get in, shut the door, tell the driver where you are going. Do not lean in the window and say “can you go to XXXX?” - don’t give them the opportunity to say “No.” But don’t expect them to know where everything is either. Have the address and cross-street handy. Because building numbers aren’t consistent from block to block (even in ‘grid’ areas), most people cannot find a building by the street address alone. Addresses are always given as “123 X Avenue between Smith and Wesson streets.”

[Kilvert_s_Pagan]

Something that is NOT touristy that I’ve really enjoyed: the New York Songwriter’s Circle. It takes place every other Monday night at The Bitter End in Greenwich Village. The shows only last an hour or so, but then you can always hang out and see whomever is playing next. They’ve had some up-and-comers who later hit it big go through there, including Norah Jones.

[Troy_McClure_SF]

To contrast all the “Don’t make eye contact” stuff, let me share that I was born, raised, and still live in San Francisco (y’know, fruits, nuts, goddamn stoner Californians), and I walked between Midtown & the East Village several times last year with an iPod in one hand and a big digital camera in the other, and I didn’t ever feel the slightest bit unsafe. (In fact, I was kind of annoyed at how slow the locals were.)

[anyrose]

I cannot believe all you “native New Yorkers” have been misspelling Manhattan!

[A_Priori_Tea]

Note to self: never, ever presume a thread is over when it’s been dead for a day. Always come back and check.

I almost never carry cash - it’s good to know that I’ll need to change that habit when I go. All the little tidbits that I would not have realized until it was nearly time to go home are very useful; you guys are awesome.

I expect to have two days completely to myself - my S.O. will be working, so I will have time to go and see all the things that would bore him to tears, and do the “Oh, that street looks interesting, I’ll turn here” walk that I like best.

One more specific question, even though this may be the wrong crowd: I was in the Leather Archives in Chicago a couple of years ago, and picked up a brochure for a similar venue in NYC. (http: //www.leatherarchives.org/home.htm if you’re interested, though there is some NSFW content beyond the first page) Obviously, I’ve lost the brochure and can’t remember what the New York venue is called, and my google-fu is weak. Anybody here know of an organization along those lines?