Maybe a minute, tops. I tried to type, nothing, then I tried to move the mouse, again, nothing. I didn’t try to ‘wait it out’ as it were. If only I didn’t have to log in it might be working now, since it seems to me that Windows will look for new hardware after the login when it loads most of windows. If there is no login, it will go directly to this step. But I will boot it and let it sit for a few minutes.
Another odd thing: When I booted then turned off cause it didn;t work, the keyboard stays on. Everything in the computer is off, yet the num lock etc… lights on the keyboard stay lit, and I can turn them on and off. If I turn off power to the power suply, then it will go off, but otherwise, it stays on.
Yeah, I’d boot it up like you did to the Windows screen, and let it sit a good 5-10 minutes. I say this based only on my observations of my system when I went through this, because it sounds real similiar. Windows has all sorts of stuff sort out hardware wise with a new board, so it may take awhile.
I can get to windows pretty much every time I start up. I can use the keyboard, but no mouse. After a couple minutes in windows it does seem to sense there is new hardware and tried to install drivers itself. However, anywhere between 3 and 10 minutes after windows starts, it will lock up. Not blue screen or anything, just a complete freeze up. No CTRL-ALT-DEL will get me out of it. In addition, Windows does not recognize my optical drives either, so I can’t just pop in the motherboard driver CD.
I tried to boot from my Windows install CD, but it won’t do that. Not cause the optical drives aren’t being seen, though, cause the BIOS senses them jsut fine, I even booted up with a memchecker CD and that ran fine (and, also, the RAM is fine too.)
I tried the CD in my laptop, and the laptop wouldn’t boot from it either, so apparantly somehow my install CD went bad. Is there a way I can get MS to send me a replacement CD? Or will I have to shell out another $150 for XP Pro?
This may sound odd but you may want to check MB grounding. For really weird problems with no other explanation it’s often the culprit. Remove the MB completely from the chassis so it is not touching any part of the metal case. Put a towel or other insulator under it. Replug all power, cards and connections and boot it up. If it doesn’t freeze and operated normally you may need to use nylon screws and insulating washers and standoffs to insulate the board from the chassis.
Complete freeze-up may indicate the following scenario:
Computer is just sitting there. Not on. It’s cool.
You turn it on. The fan for the CPU is failing to properly cool the CPU. The CPU continues to operate, but is ramping up to a temp where it will fail to perform.
Windows boots, you use the PC for a couple of minutes, then…
The CPU has reached “too danged hot”. The CPU-saving heat-regulation system in your CPU and motherboard throttles the performance of your CPU down from “3200” level down to something, which expressed in terms roughly equivalent to MHZ, might be single-digit, or even below.
I had the above scenario in my home system once because I’d accidentally disconnected the CPU fan when installing a hard disk drive.
Think your CD needs replaced? Well, if the retailer who provided it to you won’t exchange for the exact same title, contact Microsoft. They’ll provide replacement media, I’m pretty sure. They may want your originals back, to inspect the manufacturing defect and discourage scamming.
Well, I’m fairly sure it’s not a case grounding problem. When I put it in the new mobo, I removed all the screw mounts from the old one, and lined up new ones for the new mobo. However, I will try the method of removing it and placing it on a towel just to be sure.
As far as CPU overheating, originally I had that problem, as it froze up during booting, and wouldn’t turn back on until I waited a couple minutes. However, I solved that with a new heatsink and good thermal paste (and the right amount.) The hardwre monitor in the BIOS says the idle temp of my CPU is right around 100 degrees F.
OK, a quick question that I didn’t want to start a new thread about, since it’s a continuation of this problem:
I have a bone fide, legitimate copy of Win XP Pro, but as said, the install CD somehow got messed up (a scratch, or something.) Now, is it legal to use a friend’s install CD (also legitimate) to install XP, as long a sI give my CD key? I don’t want to go through the hassle of trying to get a replacement from MS (at least not yet,) so I figured I can have a friend mail me his copy and it will be a lot easier and quicker.
You can use any “copy” of the media you choose, as long as you have a valid license key.
That said there are many different “versions” of install media. i.e. upgrade (WinX to XP), OEM (checks hardware, think dell/compaq/etc), full install, volume licensing (mishmash parts, systems integrators, etc. this is pseudoOEM, without the checks, you get a key good for X number of installs, and a CD which you purchase seperately), and perhaps some others. They DO NOT use the same key structure/algorithims.
I have run into issues trying to use the Dell OEM Key, on a Dell PC, using the Volume Licensing media. There are workarounds, but I’m not going to get into that complexity with you. (you can message me if it’s needed though).
As for your mouse not working, if it’s optical, and USB, it won’t “light” until the drivers have been loaded for it.