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Old 03-16-2008, 06:02 PM
Swallowed My Cellphone Swallowed My Cellphone is offline
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: 5th Dimension
Posts: 6,126
Originally Posted by Shagnasty
This is a question I always wanted to know as well. How can anyone secure fasteners into granite like we have in New England or most other hard rocks at all? It seems like it would take heavy power equipment and dynamite to even make a dent into it.
For trad climbing, see the pictures of the stopper, hex, and cam I linked to above. You place your protection in pre-existing cracks and fissures or holes in the rock face. You have to really know what you're doing or else they will pop out when you fall and they are shock loaded.

For sport lead climbing, the bolts are put in place over a period of days sometimes weeks, using a hand-drill and a LOT of patience. Depending on the type of stone, resins or epoxy type material is used to help keep the bolt in place. Bolting routes is not something you do as you climb, it's a different project. (ETA: You also really need to know what you're doing. Taking your own life in your hands is one thing, but when you put up bolts, a much larger climibng community will be at risk if you screw it up.)

I was climbing for two days in the southwest, and it took my acquaintance the full two days just to install three bolts on a neighbouring cliff face, and he wrecked several drill bits in the process. (And nearly burned out his drill.)

Last edited by Swallowed My Cellphone; 03-16-2008 at 06:05 PM.