# 240v question - fitting a 10-30P in a 10-50R **URL:** \ **Category:** Factual Questions\ **Created:** [May 25, 2017, 8:09pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/240v-question-fitting-a-10-30p-in-a-10-50r/787437 "2017-05-25T20:09:43Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 4\ **Page:** 2
**Author:** ![Weisshund](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/w/ba8739/32.png) [@Weisshund](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Weisshund)\ **Post date:** [May 29, 2017, 11:51pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/240v-question-fitting-a-10-30p-in-a-10-50r/787437/21 "2017-05-29T23:51:34Z")
> [@OldOlds](#): > > Might I hijack with a related question? > > The other day I noticed something I had forgotten about, while fixing the washing machine. When we bought the house, it had an electric dryer. We had a gas dryer installed and shut the breaker to the dryer. Since then, that circuit has been re-purposed to provide electric heat to a home office. The #10 wire was cut where it goes up from the basement and has been removed from there to the panel. But there is still a dead 220V outlet with the in-wall length of wire to it. > > I was thinking “Gee, I really should pull that outlet and patch the hole.” knowing that it’s about priority 300. But, what must I do about the length of wire in the wall? I am hoping that I don’t have to pull it out, as that would be a pain in the ass… ? Well, in all honesty, resale value wise, i would not have cut any of the wire so the circuit could be re-established should the house go up for sale. Then the laundry accommodates which ever dryer the buyer has. Could have added another breaker to the panel for the heating circuit. But since it is too late, you dont do anything to the wire as far as i know. It is disconnected, and cut off to where it can not be reconnected? Leave it in the wall, it causes no harm, and as far as i know does not violate any code? I dont know that the unconnected outlet causes any code issues, but it may cause confusion issues with a buyer and a complaint to repair it during home inspection. ---
**Author:** ![ZurBob](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/z/71e660/32.png) [@ZurBob](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/ZurBob)\ **Post date:** [May 31, 2017, 2:01am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/240v-question-fitting-a-10-30p-in-a-10-50r/787437/22 "2017-05-31T02:01:01Z")
> [@Weisshund](#): > > That is very true, but if the dryer had a 50 amp breaker, it could potentially get it self into > a dangerous condition before the circuit tripped. > > At least this is what i am told due to the fact that the dryers wiring is only designed to handle a 30 amp load. Yes, appliance wiring is sized to handle it’s designed maximum current draw.:smack: The two things that can possibly alter this design maximum draw is motor overload, or a short to earth. In the first case, the internal motor overload will open… In the second case, the branch circuit breaker will instantaneously trip, be it a 30A or a 50A breaker. The difference in response times in this situation, between the two breakers, is probably in the range of a milli-second or two… Not a concern for the dryer wires. Again, to put it another way: One cannot OVERwire a circuit’s ampacity from the perspective of safety (practicality is another issue.) If this were not the case, there would be huge safety issues in plugging table lamps or bedside alarm clocks into 15A or 20A circuits… After all, these little gizmos are only designed (and internally wired) to operate at fractional amperages before they fry, yet no one would ever question this practice. Actually, I’m more concerned with a cell phone charger burning my house down than I am with large appliances, the latter generally having better internal protection from electrical failure, _even_ if not wired “to code”. ---
**Author:** ![Tim\_T-Bonham.net](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/t/46a35a/32.png) [@Tim\_T-Bonham.net](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Tim_T-Bonham.net)\ **Post date:** [May 31, 2017, 2:47am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/240v-question-fitting-a-10-30p-in-a-10-50r/787437/23 "2017-05-31T02:47:23Z")
> [@Weisshund](#): > > Well, in all honesty, resale value wise, i would not have cut any of the wire so the circuit could be re-established should the house go up for sale. > Then the laundry accommodates which ever dryer the buyer has. > > Could have added another breaker to the panel for the heating circuit. i agree, it shouldn’t have been done that way. But what’s done is done. > [@Weisshund](#): > > But since it is too late, you dont do anything to the wire as far as i know. > It is disconnected, and cut off to where it can not be reconnected? > Leave it in the wall, it causes no harm, and as far as i know does not violate any code? > > I dont know that the unconnected outlet causes any code issues, but it may cause confusion issues with a buyer and a complaint to repair it during home inspection. You might want to pull the receptacle & replace it with a blank cover plate, just to prevent any home inspector citing this as a non-functioning outlet that needs to be fixed. Much easier than removing it, and re-doing the drywall. Leave the wire in the wall – it’ll make it easier for a future homeowner to make it functional again. ---
**Author:** ![ZurBob](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/z/71e660/32.png) [@ZurBob](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/ZurBob)\ **Post date:** [May 31, 2017, 2:55am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/240v-question-fitting-a-10-30p-in-a-10-50r/787437/24 "2017-05-31T02:55:50Z")
> [@OldOlds](#): > > Might I hijack with a related question? > > The other day I noticed something I had forgotten about, while fixing the washing machine. When we bought the house, it had an electric dryer. We had a gas dryer installed and shut the breaker to the dryer. Since then, that circuit has been re-purposed to provide electric heat to a home office. The #10 wire was cut where it goes up from the basement and has been removed from there to the panel. But there is still a dead 220V outlet with the in-wall length of wire to it. > > I was thinking “Gee, I really should pull that outlet and patch the hole.” knowing that it’s about priority 300. But, what must I do about the length of wire in the wall? I am hoping that I don’t have to pull it out, as that would be a pain in the ass… ? A similar question prompted a heated argument in a code class over 30 years ago. AT THAT TIME, PER CODE it was concluded that: (to paraphrase) _ **If practical** _ all permanently unused circuit wiring shall be removed… “Practical” being the most important (vague-catchall) term here. The agreement was that demolishing a wall (sheetrock, plaster, etc.) was NOT considered practical. Therefore, if one had to tear a wall apart in order to remove unused wire, (as you describe) _it wasn’t necessary to satisfy code._ In answer to your question, common sense says no, you do not, **BUT YMMV!** Check with your local electrical inspector.😉 [Previous page](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/240v-question-fitting-a-10-30p-in-a-10-50r/787437.md?page=1)