Yeah, something like that, but a little brighter… more “electric” you might say 
Ok. I’m back to this project… FINALLY!! I had a couple of other projects to finish up and then things got busy at my day job - you know how it is. Anyway, I have some time cleared up so hopefully I’ll be making more regular updates to this thread…
So where were we… ah, yes - the shape has been fully cut, sanded to 120 grit and the screw holes for the neck and string holes have been drilled. Today I cut the roundover edge on the back side and routed out the control cavity. Here’s the steps:
So here’s a pic of the body with the templates and roundover bit that I’ll be using:
The first thing I did was cut the roundover. I used a 3/8" roundover bit in my router that has a bearing that follows the edge of the guitar body. Here it is after that cut:
I’ll soften the edges and blend it into the neck pocket by hand with some sandpaper later.
Next was the control cavity. First I had to map out and drill where my 2 volume knobs, 1 tone knob, and 3-way gibby style switch are gonna go. Then I drill holes all the way through the body at those spots - 5/8" for the knobs, 1/2" for the switch:
Here’s the backside with the control cavity template to show you how it all fits:
So, using my router again, I start hogging out the wood. I take it down about 1.5", almost to where the maple cap is:
Next, I’ve got to get out the template for the control cavity cover:
And go just deep enough so the cover sits flush with the body:
So that’s it for now…
Oh wait - one more thing. The neck came in a couple of days ago from Warmoth:
Maple with a pau ferro fretboard, 6105 frets, trapezoid inlays, and a bone nut. She’s a nice one…
Cool stuff, Bigshooter. I really enjoy these build threads of yours.
Why is the bored shape for the control well (or whatever the term is) such an interesting shape? Are you basically trying to take enough wood out to just barely fit the controls + wire and no more? Is that for tone reasons, or just a personal preference?
Is that headstock asymmetric? I see the tuners on each side don’t line up, I guess because its a thinner headstock and the tuner gear boxes would collide otherwise, right?
I’m afraid the answers to your questions aren’t too complicated. The only thing I can say is - that’s the way they make 'em!
The control cavity route and cover are from Stewie-Mac and the the headstock is the standard Warmoth headstock they sell. Nothing special. I’ve got a few headstock designs of my own in the works for when I start building my own necks, but until then…
I don’t know why, but on a personal level, I really don’t like the Les Paul big chunk of inlay on necks. It looks… untidy, somehow.
Who asked you, bitch?..
Seriously though, I kind of think it’ll add something different to it. I haven’t seen many bolt-on neck guitars with the trap inlays.
How do you change inlays on an existing neck?
I don’t think you can. The problem lies in removing the old ones. I don’t think that’s possible without causing major damage to the fretboard.
I did some more routing today. First up was the neck pocket. This is probably the most important cut of all, so I made sure I had it lined up correctly using my laser line:
Lined up along the center line and 3" from the top edge of the body, which is a standard Fender length. Fender depth is 5/8" but I went to 11/16" simply for two reasons. I’m not using a pickguard, so I don’t need to make room for it under the fretboard overhang. Plus, every bolt-on neck guitar I’ve played with a slightly deeper neck pocket had better action. Don’t ask me why - I don’t know. And I’m too lazy to figure it out so I guess we’ll call it magic. 
Next were the pickup routes. These are the pickups I’m using:
Seymour Duncan P-90 Stacks. Basically, 2 P-90 coils stacked on top of one another so, as a result, they become humbuckers in a way. Since it’s a stack, they’re pretty deep:
I figure 1" depth to the pickup routes should be more than enough. Now the placement of the routes on the body is up for debate. Of course, left to right position will be determined by the centerline again (probably getting the idea by now that the centerline is important, eh?;)). The top to bottom position is the iffy part. I personally have found when doing a 2 pickup, 25 1/2" scale length guitar, the best place for the center of the neck pickup is 1 3/8" from the end of the neck pocket. For the bridge pickup, I add 4" on to that, so 5 3/8" from the end of the neck pocket. This is not based on anything as complicated as the physics and nodes of vibrating strings or anything. It’s simply that from my experience building, these spots seem to be the “sweetest” as far as sound. I’m sure there’s more behind the physics of it, but again - I’m lazy. I’m sure there’s also other builders who would read this and disagree. Different strokes… (RIP Gary)
Here’s my template for the P-90 attached to the guitar in the neck position. By the way, to attach these templates for routing, I’m using Scotch brand double-sided mounting tape:
And here’s both pickup routes completed.
Most of the major routing is now complete. I’m toying with the idea of carving the top. I’ll probably determine whether that’s feasible tomorrow. Anyway, she’s starting to look like a guitar, no?
Oh! You think it’ll add something different. Not ‘you think I’ll’ add something different’ Misread.
WOW those are deep holes for the P90s. It’s looking gorgeous.
So, after much thinking and trying out some things on scrap wood, I’ve decided it might be cool to carve the top on this one. This guitar is kind of experimental, so what the fuck, eh? I’ve only carved one top before this and it came out pretty good, so I’m confident that I can do something nice with this one.
What I’m going to do here is different though. Most carved maple tops are 1/2" thick and carved down to 1/4" at the edge, a la PRS and other guitar makers. That last 1/4" is usually used as a “natural binding” like the one in this pic, which is the first carved top I did:
However, the top on this guitar is only 1/4" thick. I could only carve an 1/8" and leave an 1/8" for a binding, but an 1/8" carve would be hardly noticeable. So I had the idea of carving the full 1/4" and exposing the alder from the backside as sort of “reverse” binding. You’ll see in the pics.
I started with what’s called a cove bit and my router:
Using the bearing on the bottom of the bit, I went around the edge of the guitar, taking the edge down to just into the alder. Then I took a 3/16" roundover bit and rounded out the edge of the exposed alder:
You can see in the last pic how the alder, which will be dark brown, will be exposed on the front. I think it’ll be a nice contrast against the bright blue on the top.
So the next thing I’ll do is actually carve the damn thing, which may take a while, stay tuned…
Cool update - thanks. I look forward to seeing the carve.
Started working on the carve yesterday. Just using a 60 grit sanding disc and my hand drill:
You can see from the 1st pic that I basically drew out the contour of the the carve in pencil. There’s no special look I was going for, just trying to create nice flowing lines. Basically, all I’m doing is slowly sanding away wood until I get up to the line, being very careful not to sand deeper than my cove cut around the edge. Once I’ve got it close, I’ll even out any undulations and sanding scratches with 120 grit paper and a sanding block…
It’s slow going - those pics are after about an hour or so of sanding. It’s getting there, though.
How are you going to route wire from the controls to the pickups? I’m no wood-worker, but it seems to me like you’d need to drill some holes at a right-angle. How does that work?
All in due time, my friend… all in due time.
I’m still working on the carved top when I get the chance. In all, I’ve probably spent 4 to 5 hours so far on it and I’d say I’m the majority of the way there. After a couple of relaxing hours in the garage doing some “artistic” sanding, I was at a good stopping point and I figured I’d take a few pics:
If you’ll remember, I started removing most of the wood by using the powerdrill and a 60 grit sanding disk. Today I spent most of my time with 80 grit sandpaper and a sanding block, trying to smooth the curves and buff out the scratches and undulations left by the 60 grit. Still got some more blending to go, specially around the horns, but I think she’s looking good so far.
I’m really enjoying this build… when I get the time to work on it. :rolleyes:
Coming along nicely. I know you have a finish in mind - just wanna say how cool that would look in a sparkle finish. Very glam and retro - take a look at the yellow on this G&L in post #82 on The Gear Page.
I’ve never been a sparkle finish kind of guy. Seems so cheesy to me. Besides - hiding that figured maple under a layer of paint just doesn’t seem right to me…
Yeah for the most part I agree; I’ve never owned one. I just think it would suit that shape, but not with a nice piece of wood like you have there…
The carved top is DONE!!! Finally…
After another couple of hours with 80, 100, and 120 grit sandpaper, I cleaned it off with a little naptha and here’s what it looks like:
It came out pretty nice, I think. Very happy with it…
Next up, drilling holes for the wires and output jack as well as forming some recesses into the top for the control knobs…