I didn’t even know they made adult bikes with no derailleur. Wouldn’t you want to change gears with speed, and the occasional slope?
The bike I linked to has 3 speeds, but no derialleur (it’s called a “naaf versnelling” in Dutch) and they also have them with 7 speeds. For the 3 speed the second is what I use in traffic and if I have a bit of free space I can switch to the third. But I go days at a time without changing gears.
For all my daily commutes I use the normal 3 speed bike. For longer rides (30k for instance) I have something that resembles what Quartz has posted. That would be only a work out though. My normal bike is for practical purposes.
So if going to the pub or grocery shopping really is the most important thing, I would recommend one of these “upright” bikes (maybe with 7 gears). But I realise I’m doing this from my Dutch perspective. Personally I really dont like all these sporty (or hybrid) bikes, where you are unched over all the time, for normal day to day stuff.
So-called “cruiser bikes” are pretty popular these days. They often have only one gear. But I would stay away from a bike like that unless you literally looking for something to ride a few blocks to the store or something. Plus they weigh a ton.
I have two Treks, one road/race and one hybrid. I love them. I have a friend that is looking to sell some of his bikes (he has a sickness and buys new bikes a lot). He may have one that works for you.
Local?
Legally a helmet is optional (just like on a motorcycle in my state). But you’re a damned fool if you don’t wear one every time you’re on the bike. Look, a seat belt has never saved my life in 45 years, so am I stupid for wearing one? A helmet is just like that.
How far do you plan to ride? I’d actually recommend a bike with drop bars rather than a hybrid, because it gives you a lot more places to put your hands when you’re out and about. I really love my mountain bike, but there’s no way I would ever want to take it on a 100 km trip. This is subjective, of course, as lots of people do ride long distances on their MTBs, but it would make me unhappy to do so.
I already addressed both issues in post 21.
I agree with you that more bike riding should be encouraged, but I think the fault lies with people who believe wearing a helmet is somehow a problem, when it really isn’t. I agree the bodies aren’t piling up in the streets but that is because (fortunately) serious accidents are relatively rare (hence the argument that it is safe to ride without a helmet). However, I speak from personal experience when I say that should you be knocked off your bike and go over the handlebars, you are very likely to be glad you wore a helmet that day.
Having said that, I think a large part of the equation is how you ride, where you ride, and how often. I cover around 2,000 miles per year, mostly commuting, a large part of which is on busy roads with no cycle lanes. I ride pretty aggressively (lots of filtering, pulling out in front of or next to traffic if I have space, etc). As such a helmet is a must for me. If you’re only doing a few hundred miles a year on relatively quiet suburban streets (perhaps with dedicated cycle lanes) and you always let bigger vehicles go first (even if it is technically your right of way) then it’s far less likely you will have a sudden need for a helmet so you could justify not wearing one.
Regarding bike choices, as others have suggested, if I were you I would get a hybrid - for me I find it a more comfortable riding position than a road/race bike, but I can still go fast if I want to. I also feel the standard (as opposed to drop) handlebars give me more control and stability, which is particularly important if you haven’t ridden for a few years. Mine has 27 gears which is a few more than you will need but the weight savings for going to 24 or 21 are minimal. Take some time to sort out a comfortable saddle, but bear in mind you’ll probably be sore the first few times whatever saddle you have. For longer rides, padded cycling shorts are an excellent and cheap investment.
I think buying used to start is potentially a good idea, unless you end up with a cheap heap of junk that makes cycling a chore rather than a pleasure as this could put you off the whole thing.
Finally, sorry if I missed someone else saying it but unless you only plan to ride when it’s daytime with good visibility, front and back lights are useful. I’ve been very pleased with my Lezyne models - they’re small, portable, and most importantly have a USB charging plug built in so you can just recharge them at your computer (and they last a reasonable amount of time between charges). They weren’t cheap but you save money in the long run by avoiding the need to replace batteries.
Well, it looks like I got a pretty good deal on a gently used mountain bike (from a member on the SDMB, in fact!) so I’m going with that for the time being, and see how things work out.
If I really need a hybrid than at least I haven’t wasted a lot of money on a trial basis.
I probably won’t pick it up for a few days or a week maybe.
Congrats. MTBs are fine, but if you only ride on paved roads, you might consider replacing the knobby MTB tires with something a bit smoother. It makes a huge difference in ride and efficiency (speed). You might also consider aftermarket fenders, if your bike doesn’t have them already (most MTBs don’t). Makes a huge difference in practicality - even if you don’t plan to ride in rain, you may be riding through puddles after rain, or made by sprinklers, etc.
Turns out that the tires have already been swapped out for “less knobby ones” so that’s a bonus!
Please don’t listen to this ‘advice’.
Have you ever seen one of those engineering student egg drop contests where they make a protective case in order to be able to drop an egg from a height such that it doesn’t break? Those ‘egg helmets’ are larger than the egg but they clearly protect it from ‘injury’.
All it takes is once & traumatic brain injury changes your life forever.
I would advise against mountain bikes. Specifically, avoid shock absorbers and knobby tires. It makes a huge difference when riding on streets and sidewalks.
You want no suspension, tires with tread but not knobbies, comfort handlebars. Basically, your typical hybrid bike.
I sent my son to college with a Giant hybrid bike, and he later told me what a huge difference it was when he rode his roommate’s mountain bike, how much hard that was to ride.
Bike shops will let you ride around and test various bikes, so you can see what feels right. I’ve purchased bikes that way before.
I tried Bikes Direct(usa) for my recent bike, mostly for financial reasons. Saved about 50%. I do all my own bike mechanical work.
Got a great mt bike “motobecane” with front shock and disc breaks.
I like the upright riding posture, so I adjust it to really be a hybrid style.
I’m tired of adjusting pad brakes and the discs, although low end, have just been really really great. I mean instant great even stopping power. The front shock can be turned off, but is great for wrist issues I have when I hit bumps. I put road tires on for speed, but actually kinda like the slower knobbies, as I go down to the beach a fair amount and have to deal with some trails etc. Plus, when I fall off trying to take some dumb shortcut:smack:…Im going really slow.
Good luck with your new bike!!!
I think Jamis makes a fine bicycle at good price points and used they are bargains.
The most important thing is to get it sized properly. Even a cm or two of difference can make a drastic change in the comfort of the bike.
I’ve seen statistics that helmets make very little difference in actual safety for adult cyclists. I don’t know why that would be, though, and in any event I always wear mine anyway.
I personally prefer hybrids or mountain bikes to road bikes. All of my riding is on streets which are theoretically paved, but in a lot of cases, that’s purely theoretical: Potholes, ribboning, and rough patches are common enough that the roads might as well not be paved. Things might be different down south where the ground never freezes, but you said you’re in Canada.
On the other hand, if I do ride a mountain bike, it’s always going to be one without shocks. Shocks are a huge energy sink; it feels like you’re riding on a road made of marshmallows.
And the best option for buying, if available, would be a bike co-op. They’ll take donations of used bikes, fix up anything that needs fixing and generally refurbish them, then sell them in nearly-new condition for half the price of new, while still giving you the knowledgeable service and advice of a standard bike shop.
I refused to wear a helmet for most of my life. Didn’t want to buy one and didn’t want to wear one because, as you say, biking should be fun and freeing. Of course, I didn’t do much biking then, just around the neighborhood and an occasional trail.
What convinced me to wear one was when I started riding longer and went shopping for a hat to keep the sun off my face. It was kind of a ‘duh’ moment. Bike helmets do that and they let the air flow through too. As an added feature they protect the head during crashes.
Lot’s of good comments and suggestions here. I will only add that as you get into this more, you may get overwhelmed by information and data and opinions about every facet of cycling: gear, clothes, brands, etc. My advice is to just go with what works for you and what you are comfortable with. If the MTB you got 2nd-hand works well for your needs (and budget), do not feel pressured into “upgrading” to something else unless you are feeling constrained in some way. Cycling is especially prone to “weeny-ness” on every. single. little. topic. and you will find anyone who ever has thrown a leg over bike is their own expert.
My advice is to just go with whatever keeps you riding. 
Just one more piece of advice that I don’t think has been mentioned yet - I have found puncture resistant tyres to be excellent, they come in several different sizes and styles so hopefully you can find one to suit you.
Congrats on the bike Leaffan. I hope you get many enjoyable years of riding. As a sometime mtb commuter rider I strongly recommend adding two things that will make your life a bit easier, a rear pannier and saddle bags plus a set of deflector shields. I’ve linked to the ones I use and they keep me from getting skunk striped in bad weather and also allow me to carry up to 120 lbs of gear if I need to. If you have a flat or riser type handle bar you can also look into getting a set of bar ends to give you an additional hand position.