There’s is no need to pollinate peppers with a q-tip. A stiff breeze will do it. Think of hot peppers like they’re 14-year-old boys. They want to procreate. You don’t have to help them.
I’ve been growing hot peppers for years and even developed a line of hot pepper + native Florida fruit jams. In the past couple seasons, I’ve been too busy to do this, but the information hasn’t fallen out of my head.
• In my experience, the hotter the weather, the hotter the peppers.
• Peppers are considered tender perennials. Yes, perennials. If you dig 'em up and keep 'em warm all winter, they will stay green and will start reproducing again in the spring. They go a bit dormant, but they won’t die unless they get frozen. Depending on where you are in the deep SE, you might not even have to bring them inside. In the spring, re-plant them outside and you won’t have to go from seeds anymore. I had a cayenne plant that lived for about four years.
• I got better yield when peppers are planted in the ground as opposed to pots. But if you’re going to do pots (and they’ll do just fine, but the peppers might be a bit smaller), make sure they are at least 2-gallon sized and put a layer of mulch on top to hold in moisture. Some peppers, I think serrano, get really large and bushy. Like 3 feet high. I put those in a 16" diameter pot – the largest I could find. Pots will keep the roots from spreading as much as free-range peppers, so the plants and peppers will be smaller and possibly fewer, but really, not a big deal. I started out with pots on an apartment balcony (and eventually found space on an 11-acre co-op farm
).
• I only watered if it hadn’t rained at least once in seven days. Or if the leaves looked all wilty. So make sure they get a good soaking about 2-3 times a week, whether by rain or your garden hose/sprinkler.
• In USDA growing zone 8B (where I live), you can get three crops of peppers in a given season. The first one will have matured in spring, so those will be fairly mild. The second one will mature in the dead heat of summer, so those suckers will be friggin’ hot. The third crop will be sparse compared to the other two, and mild like spring peppers.
• If you don’t want your peppers to cross-pollinate, yes, keep them far apart. I read 250 feet somewhere, but I don’t know anyone who has that kind of space. I just let 'em mix to see what I got later. I can’t really taste the difference between, say a cayenne and a Thai chili, but I could probably distinguish the heat factor between a jalapeno and a habanero. With respect to flavor, they all sort of taste the same to me too, but I’m a smoker and my palate is messed up. I don’t think it’s that big of deal, especially if you’re going to cook with several different varieties and stick 'em all in the same salsa (or whatever you’re going to do with them). I made things like blueberry-habanero and pear-cayenne jams. Hot is hot, even when mixed with fruit.
• I never fertilized or did anything special aside from mulching and watering when needed. I used your basic Miracle Grow potting soil for veggies. I’d amend the soil with that if planting in-ground, or use only that if planting in pots. When I was working my rows at the co-op farm, we composted (and watered). That was it. One gardener had a vermiculture project going on, so he shared his worms with everyone.
• I like at least six hours of full, blazing sun a day. So do my peppers.
• Occasionally, you get tomato hornworms. Tobacco, potatoes, tomatoes, and peppers are all part of the nightshade family. This means whatever eats one will eat the others. Tomato hornworms are really creepy little critters – green worms with a spiky horn on their butt ends. I’d pick 'em off and toss them in my garbage can, which meant they’d bake to death in the sun. (I can’t smoosh stuff, even if it’s trying to eat my peppers.) You can get bt (bacillis thuringiensis), which is a bacteria in powder form, that you sprinkle on the plants, and which is completely organic and rinses right off. It’s sold under the brand name “Dipel” dust. No need for artificial pesticides on food you’re going to eat, if you get hornworms. Inspect the undersides of leaves every couple days. If you see something being chewed on, keep looking until you find the little critters. They can eat a whole plant in a day or two. The plants WILL come back if this happens, just cut them back and pull off any forming peppers to let the plant spend its energy regrowing foilage. I never got aphids on my peppers, but I had ladybugs, praying manti, and several other aphid predators in my yard. :: shrug :: For aphids, I mix up a spray bottle with 1 part dish soap and 10 parts water and spray 'em off. Works just fine. I think I’ve gotten whiteflies too, same solution.
• The good news about peppers is: I think benign neglect works out pretty well; just watch for hornworms. The other good news is: it’s the only thing I’ve been able to grow that squirrels and birds don’t beat me to the crops. I went all murderous rage on a squirrel that ate my pineapple before I got a chance to harvest it, damn tree rat. Grr. 