That is utter BS.
A few sporadic cases…Maybe. But the rule? No way.
I work for a Sheriff’s Office, and I can assure you that nothing is ever taken from the vehicle, nor is the vehicle damaged in any way.
From my observations, 99.9% of the vehicles impounded are crap anyway, and people find it convenient to blame it on the cops, rather than their shoddy car care.
Rule of thumb: Don’t break the law, and your car won’t be impounded in the first place.
You may not want to bother with synthetic oils.
We bought our van new in 1991, and we knew we would keep it until the wheels fell off. Hubster wanted “nothing but the best” so he started it on a diet of synthetic oil. And once you start with synthetics, you gotta keep it up.
Well, the van now has 130K on it. It’s had normal replacements, a couple of tranny rebuilds, new freeze plugs…
and it’s leaking like a sieve.
Mechanic says all the gaskets need to be replaced, and with an Aerostar, that means pulling the engine. So, we’re looking at $1000 bucks.
We just keep feeding it oil, instead. It’s not necessarily a BAD thing, but it sure makes a mess in the driveway!
~VOW
I would read the manual on what to do 
Change the air filter, its cheap & easy to do. Use the right octane, etc.
Although I presonally am not gentile on the brakes or throttle, gentile is far less stressful than hitting WOT and full throttle shifts
The first synthetic oils did not contain the same additive packages that the conventional oils have. Now the systhetic oils do contain conditioners.
As to synthetic oil, I would like to see some sort of side-by-side test data proving it is superior to natural oil. Absent that, I ain’t gonna switch and I wouldn’t advise anyone else to do so.
It’s a common question, here’s an uncommon answer:
The question asked was “How do I make my car last longer”.
The better question is:
What car do I pick to last longer?
Pick the wrong car and it’s like being married to Liz Taylor, Anna Nicole Smith, and Zsa Zsa Gabor… AND ASKING FOR MARRIAGE ADVICE
FORGET IT IT YOU PICK THE WRONG CAR.
PhilAlex. Honda Man all the way.
PS: When driving down a hill, don’t downshift. Brake.
oh it’s better, but is it better for most conditions???
kinda like electrical conectors, the gold plated ones are better, well is it important to use it on every lightbulb/extension cord, hey wait, my extension cord is solid gold…even better, right.
it does FLOW much better when cold and on startup, it robs less power because it is easier to pump, and some other benefits, but for the price, is it really 3x better???
I only use it in my race car.
Changing your oil every 7500 miles is no where often enough. I own an 89 Blazer which was driven sensibly from new until I turned 16 when my dad gave it to me at which point I started to drive it like a maniac until I was 18. After that I have been driving it sensibly. I have changed the oil every 3000 miles which I believe has enabled me to drive it to 213,000 miles with a strong running engine.
And for fungi, starting the car just to run an electric motor is insane. Starting an engine is brutal. Not to mention the hours your putting on your engine cost much more per hour then the electric motor. Replace the window motor or the car motor?
If you live in a cold climate, a block heater is a wonderful thing. Not only does it drastically decrease engine wear, it also gets the passenger compartment heater working much faster.
Markus
I have remembered one that has always troubled me.
I was once told that a car idling for long periods of time may damage the catalytic converter. Is this true?
Unless your car is designed to use high octane fuel, this is wasting your money and possibly damaging your engine. Use the octane recommended by the manufacturer, or go higher if your car pings.
I also would like that info mr cynical, I have always heard of the great dangers of letting your engine idle, Is there any real harm done (besides carbon monoxide poisining)
Good advice here so far.
I’ll only add that you should repair things quickly that do go wrong, even little stuff. A lot of people forget or don’t aprreciate that a car is a system, not a collection of isolated parts. Little problems can and usually do lead to bigger and much more expensive ones.
That and never leave your friend’s dad’s rare Ferrari in the hands of two shady looking parking attendants while you, him, and your girlfriend take in the sites in downtown Chicago.
Maintenance, maintenance, maintenance!
Change the oil and filter regularly (3000 miles/3 months is what is most recommended). You ought to be able to do this yourself.
Every week, check all your fluids to make sure they’re clean and full. Check your tires and make sure they’re at the correct pressure. Have a look-see at your belts and hoses. If you notice any corroded or worn wires, replace 'em.
Treat your car like your best girlfriend: keep it clean, dry, warm and well-lubricated. No jackrabbit starts, gunning/revving the engine, any of that teenage nonsense.
As zwede has mentioned, the biggest problem, with oil not up to temp, condensation forming and cat not up to temp, is short trips. The guy who runs this site, known as Honest John, considers a 10 mile trip to be the essential minimum to avoid damage.
It’s a good site with lots of info and forums for car related discussions
I have to say, this ‘change the oil every 3000 miles’ amazes me! Manuals in new cars (and this is the UK, although I don’t know how much difference it makes) ask for an oil change every 10-12,000 miles. Slightly older ones 6000. Even basic maintenance says 10,000.
On the cold starting, there have been adverts here for GTX Magnatec oil which is supposed to minimise engine wear until the engine warms up. I’ve heard one or two good reports about this. Similarly, everyone I’ve ever spoken to on the subject says that synthetic oil is far superior to natural.
Cars of the modern era have recommended oil change intervals ranging from 7500 miles to 10,000 or so–for NORMAL service. Most folks who drive in cities should follow the schedule for SEVERE service, which typically halves the mileage interval.
With the continual improvements in engines and oils, the 3 month/3,000 mile recommendation is becoming obsolete. I’m currently recommending 4 month/4,000 miles for most cars, the very newest models could probably go a bit longer.
Read the owner’s manual and use the recommended VISCOSITY of oil (e.g. 5W30, 10W30, etc.). A number of cars that call for 5W30 will suffer from using 10W30 over several tens of thousands of miles. It’s not a concern for the occasional topping up, or an odd oil change once in a great while, but the predominant usage should be what’s recommended.
My advice is the same as Handy’s, read the manual and follow its instructions religiously. Do every single maintenance item at the time indicated. Do not bother following any advice outside the manual with respect to items that the manual identifies. They built the car, they know the car, and it is very much in their interest that their cars last a long time.
Keep your car clean inside and out (even under the hood). Keep the tires properly pressurized.
The guy’s got a Nissan 200sx right, uses higher octane.
He makes lots of short trips right, synthetic oil for cold starts.
It’s a '98 still has a warranty available, probably, if so extend it.
Do all maintenance on time!
But what do I know? I’ve got an '84 Olds w/ 250,000m on it (still runs good and doesn’t smoke) and am rebuilding a '67 chevy w/ 350,000m on it (it’s pretty worn out though) pretty damn good for a work truck, I’d say!
and NEVER, NEVER loan it out!
If you use a block heater plug it in for only an hour or so before starting the engine. Leaving it on overnight is wasteful.
In places like North Dakota and Minnesota people (and local governments) spray used motor oil on the undersides of their vehicles and inside body panels to protect against road salt.
You can locate a recommended mechanic in most places in the U.S. at The Mechan-X Files:
While you are there, look at Time Kill Central!