“Bespoke” is British for shoes made to measure, i.e., you measure the customer’s feet and make the shoes to fit.
Do you think that when you become an actual cobbler, that your kids will have shoes?
No, we don’t make shoes, we only fix them.
The skill is rare these days because mass produced shoes are so much cheaper that the custom-made ones can’t compete on a large scale.
Shoo Goo, most likely.
Nope. Nor did we have a problem with the witch who showed up to get her Birkenstocks fixed.
do you let your skin get stained by leather dye or do you wear gloves?
what do you do to waterproof leather? do you apply it barehanded?
for mixed material footwear, like snow boots, what do you do to to preserve the rubber part?
do you apply replacement aglets?
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do you apply replacement aglets?
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I’ve never seen anyone attempt to repair shoe laces, but I suppose it’s possible. Probably easier to just dip the ends into clear nail polish or varnish.
Guessing you really meant eyelets, which can be replaced. We only stocked brass and silver, but they are made in many colors. Doesn’t necessarily mean the local cobbler can affordably get them, however. A lot of those little bits (called “findings” in the industry) are only sold in fairly outrageous quantities such as a bag of 1000, which is inconvenient if you just need one or two.
Broomstick, I’m glad that you are working at something you enjoy now.
My question: do you know the name of the metal things on this hair wrap:
I have some leather that I want to turn into a wrap, but I don’t know how to search for the parts online.
go eat at Schoops for me, would ya?
Thanks, LurkerinNJ!
Broomstick, here’s a sort-of-not-really related question that’s been bugging me for a while. Maybe you or someone else can answer for me: Other than certain airports, where would one go to get a leather shoe polished? I have a decent pair of Eastlake clogs that are getting pretty scratched. I think some polish would do the trick but I don’t want to do it myself if I can avoid it.
Thanks! Heartened by your description I went and dropped them off this morning. He’s gonna goop the crack and fix the heels for $25!! I think he gave me a break because I was willing to wait two weeks (he had a huge backlog). Assuming the work is good I’m going to give him a hell of a tip.
You probably would have mentioned it - but any backpacks?
I have a leather beackpack that is ~20 years old. I’ve taken it to a furnature place and a shoe shop (both were able to help)
Brian
Wear gloves.
Aside from the cosmetic aspects, I have had bad reactions to commercial dyes in the past, so I want to avoid getting them on me as much as possible.
Silicon spray, mostly, but also mink oil (which is more water resistant than waterproof) and similar things. The spray is, of course, sprayed. Things like mink oil are applied by dauber or by hand (pure mink oil is pretty good for your skin, actually).
Um… well, we usually see stuff like that after it’s damaged. For rubber, we usually use Shoe Goo either scooshed into cracks or used as a thin coating. Leather and fabric are preserved with things like mink oil (leather) or silicone spray.
No. I wish we did. We get asked for that frequently but as far as I know there isn’t really a way to fix them.
We stock most findings like eyelets, grommets, lacehooks, etc. in gold/brass, silver/chrome, brown, and black. But even so, we never seem to have exactly the right color or size.
Well, we both clean and polish shoes, belts, boots, and purses. The treatment ranges from a “quick shine” which is just what it sounds like, a quick shine that does no more than remove superficial dirt and imparts a very quick shine, up to our “deep clean and polish” which removes any old dirt, grime, salt, polish build up, or wax on the leather, we then use cream polish and, if necessary, a type of wax to fill in/color scrapes and scuff, use cream polish of the appropriate color over the whole thing, apply a leather conditioner, then buff and shine everything. It can really revitalize old leather. I had a lady come by last week with a purse that was nearly grey, deeply scuffed, and stiff. When I returned it, it was brown again, uniform in color, and the leather was soft and supple again.
Yep, we do backpacks, too. So far, only fabric ones.
My current problem is that we finally got an industrial sewing machine for the Merrillville shop. Which wasn’t a problem. The problem was that after sewing a couple items the needle broke. I replaced it and rethreaded the machine. Unfortunately, the top thread isn’t catching the bobbin thread, so no seam. I don’t know what’s wrong. I consulted the manual, only to discover it’s written entirely in German. Not terribly helpful, even if I’ve figured out “nadel” means “needle” and “spule” means “bobbin”. This, of course, is one of the joys of being part of a small business - you wind up having to solve such problems yourself.
i can’t put a date on it, decades ago i saw an aglet repair material and tool. no recall of any name.
the tool was a hand held press, pliers sized. fixed frame with movable groove. material with the width of an aglet length in steel (in lace color), length of the circumference of the outsize of a lace, which was bent in a U shape.
you passed the lace through the press. applied an aglet blank onto the lace short of the end. moved the lace and aglet blank in place and back into the press. squeezed the handles, moving the groove up in the fixed piece, bending the U shape into a cylinder around the lace. remove and trim the end of the lace.
[QUOTE=Broomstick]
My current problem is that we finally got an industrial sewing machine for the Merrillville shop. Which wasn’t a problem. The problem was that after sewing a couple items the needle broke. I replaced it and rethreaded the machine. Unfortunately, the top thread isn’t catching the bobbin thread, so no seam. I don’t know what’s wrong. I consulted the manual, only to discover it’s written entirely in German. Not terribly helpful, even if I’ve figured out “nadel” means “needle” and “spule” means “bobbin”. This, of course, is one of the joys of being part of a small business - you wind up having to solve such problems yourself.
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You probably tripped the safety clutch. This often happen if you get things jammed up and break a needle. Some industrials like Pfaff / Mauser and Adler have a clutch that disengages the bobbin hook if stressed enough. Look for a button on the machine’s bed an inch or two to the right of the feed dogs. Press and hold it while rotating the flywheel toward you. The machine’s innards should soon go “clunk!” - release the button, and all should be well again. Oh, before you do that, take a look in the bobbin area to make sure there’s not a chunk of needle stuck in there. :eek:
Already checked for the “chunk of needle” - all bits accounted for and not jammed in the machine.
I’ll look for a “safety clutch”. I also read on line where installing the needle backward can cause failure to engaged the bobbin thread.
Howabout if I just need a zipperhead. I recently got a really nice leather jacket from a thrift shop for 10 bucks. It has a zipper, but the little head that you actually use to zip it up with is missing (which I guess is why I was able to get such a good deal on it). Anyway I’ve tried taking it to a few alterations shops, but they’ve all told me they weren’t able to fix it.
It does button up though, so I’m not completely exposed to the elements.
Can I fix the beginning wear on my heals, myself?
I have a pair of leather loafers I like, I love the ‘tock, tock, tock’ sound they make when I walk. But the heal is beginning to show wear (down to the white?). I don’t really want to spend money to repair them, as I got them for nothing. I have industrial adhesive, any suggestions on what kind of material to fill in with?
I have two questions.
First, I bought a pair of 4" pumps ($40 range, fake leather*) and only realized after I wore them out for the first time that they don’t fit quite perfectly. What happens is the heel lifts out of the shoe slightly (or sometimes all the way) when I walk. I think they’re an 8 1/2, but the 8 was too small, so it’s a slight difference. Is there anything that can be done, like added to the inside of the shoe, to make it fit better?
Second, I had this done once to a pair of leather boots that I inherited about 20 years ago (when I was still ok with second-hand unpurchased-leather)… see, I pronate (meaning, as I’m sure you know, that my feet roll inward) and this means that I tend to wear out the instep and front of the sole of the shoe under my big toe back to my arch. The sole wears away and then the shoe starts to abrade against the ground, ruining the shoe unless I resole it. Now, most pumps have really thin soles. But on this pair of boots I had 20 years ago, I took them to a shoe repair place and they replaced the soles with a thicker, black rubber type sole and they cut it so that it stuck out past the shoe along that part that tended to wear worse. It made so much difference in how long they lasted! I’ve considered having it done to favorite shoes I’ve had since then, to make them last longer, too… but I don’t know A) how expensive that kind of thing is (I don’t remember from 20 years ago and it’s probably different now anyway) or B) if it can be done with synthetic shoes. Is that the kind of thing you can do? And do with synthetic shoes? I seem to recall he had to add a little extra height to the heel to balance the boot (that was a 4" heel as well).
Oh, just thought of a third thing: Do you repair Birkenstocks or do those have to go to a Birkenstock store to be resoled?
*(I don’t buy leather for ethical reasons)
$12 at my shop, usually.
Assuming you have black/grey heels to begin with, “down to the white” is not beginning wear. It’s extensive wear and we charge extra to build that back up before applying an actual new heel.
If I misunderstand and this really is just beginning wear then you can get “heel protectors” and apply them to the worn parts. That only works if they really are just beginning to wear.
Other than that, if you want to get inventive, you might be able to go to a shoe repair shop and ask for sole/heel material scraps to work with. Apply them with the industrial adhesive - ideally, you then use a shoe or heel press to compress the shoe/heel sandwich for better adhesion. Then you use a belt sander to level the bottom and sand off any odd bits sticking beyond the original sole margins.
Obviously, having the proper materials, adhesives, and tools makes this task much easier, which is where we cobblers have the advantage.
I wish to note that I am NOT endorsing any particular brand name product - this are just the first examples I yanked off the internet that had a decent illustration of the item. Things like heel grips can be found in house brands for CVS and other stores.
Yep, they do. Use sole protectors to prolong their life.
$50-65 at our shop.
It depends on what the sole and heel are made of. Some types of materials we can adhere something to long term. In other cases, we can’t. Hollow/air filled or liquid/gel filled soles we probably can’t do it. Leather, cork, and certain types of “heel material” (vinyl, rubber, etc.) we can.
We do Birkenstocks (my comment upstream about a local witch coming in to get hers fixed was not hyperbole. She is one of the local Pagans and so far has brought two pairs in).
In fact, I’m toying with the idea of making a pair of “Birkenstocks” for myself as we can order all the bits that go into one, and doing the leather uppers myself.