I have a self-propelled EGO battery-powered lawnmower. It’s great.
I’m not sure how big my lawn area is. The full property area is about 1/3 of an acre, but plenty of that is house, driveway, septic mounds, etc., so maybe 7,000 or 8,000 sq ft. One full battery charge is enough to do the whole thing. You can turn the self-propel function on and off at will to save power, too.
Gas-powered means maintenance of the engine, which I’m just not interested in. Plus the exhaust and the fucking noise.
So what do the batteries cost?
Are you calculating in they only last about 5 years?
In five years, technology will be better and you could just buy a new one.
Yeah - I’m waiting for Roomba to come out w/ a mower! 
Perhaps you’re joking, but iRobot (manufacturer of the Roomba) has a robotic lawnmower. The product launch was delayed or postponed because of the pandemic. And other companies also have robotic lawn mowers.
Yeah, I though I had heard of that.
Re gas: simply google the pollution equivalent of a mower vs driving, and the decibel level. If neither of those matter to you (and I think they should) then go ahead and buy gas. Purchase price is far cheaper.
Do you have a trimmer, blower, etc? Gas, corded? If not, swapping batteries for those might appeal to you.
Either you are the type of guy who is going to say, “I have this cord, and it is no big deal”, then go corded. It is a very manageable hassle, but a hassle nonetheless.
You have 0.1 acres, which is tiny as far as lawn mowing is concerned. Now with that said the cord is a PITA, however you have such a small area that a corded mower may be a perfect fit that would last 25 or so years and be the cheapest option.
However if you like to let your lawn grow between cuttings, mulch mow, mulch leaves and perhaps mow in damp grass conditions the electric would bog down and you may have to mow 1/2 a width at a time. But again your area is small, so no biggie. but…
If you plan to do that, you may benefit from the raw power that only gas can provide. For the small area you might get away with 1 gal/year and that makes canned fuel economical (apx $20/gal) which should eliminate any fuel related problems for perhaps a decade or more. Just for a comparison I just use ethanol free fuel + stabil (but not canned fuel which is much better) and have not had any fuel issue in 15 years, the only things I have done was sharpen the blade every 3 years or so, adjust the self propelled linkage once and change the oil 2x. Always starts right up every year. So a gas one is still a option if you want that power or need to mow the tougher stuff.
That’s been my worry, is either electric good enough for mulching once a week for the 26 weeks of the grass growing season. I don’t want to bag and like the way mulching improves the soil.
But electrics are so easy to maintain and small engines are often a complete pain in the butt. One bad fuel load and there goes the carb. Etc.
The batteries worry me as they don’t last and are expensive. I use a lot of cordless tools and the batteries are the weak point. Lots of issues over the last 30 years. So I’m paying more and then paying more again in 5 years or simply put up with a cord.
Hell, I even sharpen my own blades. I got pretty good at it.
I should add, the property is just under a 1/4 acre but almost 1/2 covered by house, deck, driveway, etc. The 5000 sq’ is a pretty good measurement of grass using Google Map’s measuring tool.The grass is not all that robust looking. I’m used to a thick lawn and this one is thin.
I think I can find a good mulching electric, but not sure.
We have lots of grass to cut, so it takes one full day a week in the spring/summer. We have two riding mowers, but there is still a need for a push mower and weed whacker.
Two years (?) ago we replaced our gas push mower and trimmer with battery operated tools (Worx brand). I was so impressed that I replaced one of our gas chainsaws with a battery operated model (a Dewalt).
For a yard like the OP describes I’d get a battery operated mower and a battery trimmer. Light weight, plenty of power, quiet, and no need to keep gas in your garage.
My impression was you lived pretty much in the boonies, no? Just wondering why you maintain so much area in a manner such that it needs to be mowed?
I’m often surprised when I’m in more rural areas and I see vast expanses of mown lawn. If it were me, I’d definitely look into lower maintenance alternatives. We go to a family place in Michigan. The majority is unmaintained, but there are 2 plots around 2 houses where the pater familias has grass with sprinkler systems, which he has mowed. I always wonder why.
My gf enjoys landscaping, so we have numerous beds of plants. We have a shade garden area with hostas, bleeding hearts, ferns, etc. The grass/lawn areas are not fertilized or treated for weeds, she just likes lots of green.
We really should just reconfigure the horse pasture to include the land we mow, but there is something peaceful in sitting outside in the summer, eating dinner from the grill, and seeing beautiful greenery in every direction.
Sounds amazing. I guess I got the wrong impression of your abode. Enjoy! Toke one for me, pal!
I, like garygnu, have an EGO selfpropelled. A fast look shows me selfpropelled battery mowers from Greenworks, Toro, Atlas, Worx – there may be others.
That EGO, by the way, handles massively overgrown grass and weeds, damp or dry, with far less stalling out than any gas mower I’ve ever had (and of course an easier restart if it does stall.) I never use the bagger, I’m always using it as a mulcher.
The batteries also run a chain saw, and could run other EGO equipment if I had it.
I have a corded electric mower I use for about a 5000 square foot yard, and it’s fine. The big pros are the mower cost under $200, without any rebates, and for the nine years I’ve had it, maintenance has consisted of once a year sharpening the blade.
The cons are as stated by others, the cord can be a nuisance. Another big one I didn’t notice mentioned is that the power of a 110 volt corded mower is limited to about 1300 watts, or about 1.75 horsepower. Many will advertise “3 horsepower equivalent” or such nonsense. That is wrong, the mower is not very powerful.
However, it is perfectly fine for mowing and mulching once per week. Let it go two or three weeks, and the cuts can look a bit ragged. I don’t care. If you do care, then it might be a problem.
Here is my routine with the cord, so you can judge if this is too much of a nuisance for you. I keep the cord on a $10 hand crank cord winder. Unwind the whole cord (about 30 seconds), plug it in, plug the other end into the mower.
Start mowing the grass nearest the outlet. Do a little dance of stepping over the cord on each pass and let the cord lay down on the side of the mower towards the outlet. Once one side of the driveway is done, move the mower to the other side, then pull the cord over so it doesn’t get hung up under the car tires.
Unplug the cord from the outlet, wind it up on the reel (about a minute), move the whole setup to the backyard. Then unwind the cord and plug it in. Mow the back, doing the little dance. When done, unplug the cord, and wind it back up. Unless it’s time to edge, then just unplug the mower, plug in the edger/string trimmer and do that.
In nine years, I’ve never once run over the cord or cut it. I’ve never tripped over it badly enough to fall down or hurt myself. I’ve never ripped up flowers by dragging the cord through them. It isn’t that hard. The trick is to figure out how to hold the cord so it drops onto the already cut grass, not onto the to-be-cut grass. It is very similar to vacuuming with a corded upright vacuum, except with a spinning blade of death.
And if you do have to stop cutting to reposition the cord, so what? Letting off the dead-man’s switch isn’t a big deal. No need to pull start it again, just pull the handle, and wait a few seconds for the blade to come up to speed.
I want to support all the comments already made about a corded electric.
I also want to honor your request about manual mowers.
But … I have a Greenworks corded electric and a Scott reel-type mower … and a yard about the size of yours.
If I’m on schedule with mowing, I tend to push the reel mower. It cuts really well, is awfully easy, and takes less time than the corded mower does.
Maybe that’s just grist for the Knowledge Base 
If I can’t avoid cutting damp (not wet) grass or have gotten behind … I use the electric … comfortably and without legitimate complaint, but gently cursing the cord pretty much every time.
If I’m fairly late in cutting … I can mow twice with either mower – lowering the cutting height between – and do a perfectly fine job.
The corded electric, theoretically, mulches. The reel-type … well … doesn’t, but the cut grass virtually disappears in a day. I don’t rake it up.
Good luck !
I’ll chime in here as in the last 10 years I have gone through the whole cycle.
I replaced my gas lawn mower with a battery powered Ryobi 40v one, one of their earliest mowers. It was not very good. It mulched poorly if the grass was long, and it easily took 2 of the 4amp-hour batteries to do my lawn. However, I absolutely loved the rest of their 40v line, the trimmer that allowed for attachments, the blower, and the chainsaw. So I kept those pieces, sold the mower, and bought a corded electric. My lot is 100 x 150, and I have very few outdoor outlets, so I needed to use more than 100 feet of extension cord, and this ultimately did me in. Dealing with the cord is a pain, but less of a pain if you follow a good cord management system and mow in back and forth patterns moving away from the outlet. You cannot do circles/spirals without tangling up the cord, so be warned about that. Look on youtube for good videos on how to manage the cord while you mow. 12 gauge cord will be heavy but you’ll do fine if this is what you want.
After we burned out an extension cord, I went back to a gas powered mower for a couple years. I loved how easy it was to just refill the gas and not worry about cords, etc. But buying gas all the time and changing the oil started to annoy me, plus noise.
Then I saw the new hotness. Sun Joe was selling a package deal of their 100v Mower along with their 100v Snowblower, with 1 battery. I wasn’t sure about the 1 battery, but figured I would give it a try. My son mows our yard with it now, and he has run it flat only a couple of times when the grass has been extra thick and he didn’t do it for a couple weeks. Most times he brings it back with less than 50% used. Snowblowing is a different story, as heavy snows in Michigan will drain the battery pretty fast, but it does a powerful job of throwing.
As for your concern about the batteries. I have all the original batteries from my Ryobi 40v set save for the ones I sold with the mower (total of 4 batteries). In 10 years, only one has gone bad and that’s (I suspect) because I left it in the garage over the winter in sub-zero temps. The others still perform well. For battery life, well…I am going way back in your posting history to a conversation I think we had once, about buying tools. I seem to recall you liked Harbor Freight tools, because they were cheap. You specifically talked about battery operated ones. So, yeah, cheap tools, cheap batteries, they die more quickly. And I have heard of people with their batteries dying, but it has not happened to me. I like to think it’s because I am good about maintaining them now, never running them all the way down, storing them indoors when it gets cold, not leaving them on the charger for extended periods, etc.
Thank you everyone, lots of good replies. It sounds like I can get away with an electric and just need to decide between a corded or battery one.
Pros for the Corded: Cheap and little maintenance and no batteries.
Con for the Corded: The cord is pretty much the con. But I can probably handle that with no problem.
Pros for Cordless: Don’t need to worry about the cord
Con for the Cordless: More expensive and don’t need the chainsaw or snowblower options, I’m well covered there. Batteries tend to last about 5 years, so added expense.
I’ll have to time it, but I think it takes between 30-90 seconds. Any my 5 year old husqvarna starts usually first pull. 
I suspect it depends a lot on your particular lawn.
In my case, it was a no-brainer for cordless, because not only is it a large lawn with a batch of stuff to mow around that a cord would catch up on, but also I take it out to the fields to mow between raised beds where the tractor mower won’t fit. I’d need a couple thousand feet of cord.
But while I’ve never used a corded, my guess is that for a small and simple lawn that (or the reel version) would make more sense.
The lawn is fairly sparse and very flat.
I only have one pic, and it is actually one of my spring projects also.
Click thumbnail to see larger picture.
I plan to lift all the stones on this path, clean it up, put down a barrier and put the stones back in. Probably replace some of the landscaping ties.