Your circuit should have 3-way switches at the ends, and a 4-way switch in between. In that design, you should only need 3 conductors (+ ground) in any of the cable runs. You don’t need 4-conductor cable (which is why it’s hard to find in stores).
Sounds like the OP is trying to put the 4-way switch at one end of the circuit, instead of in the middle.
And yet in most cases, only 3-wire romex is needed. As in every wiring diagram in the links I gave.
A couple of you need to go back and read my original question.
Maybe you could explain what in your original question we aren’t understanding?
We are not exactly answering your question about ENT, but trying to explain that we don’t think you need to do that.
If you replace the current 3-way switch with a 4-way switch, and then run 14-3 cable to the new location, and install the old 3-way switch there, and then run 14-2 from that to the light or power), you can wire this circuit without needing any 14-4 cable.
Well I finally finished the job today. Your link was very helpful. Progress was delayed by spending 3 days in the hospital dealing with complications of my cancer. I am sent home with orders to take it easy. The next day the kitchen faucet springs a leak.
The black hot wire from the switch loop for the light was connected to the common of the switch. I connected it to the black wire to the new switch location. I connected both reds and whites to the new switch. Note, $3.79 including shipping on Ebay for a Pass and Seymour brand one. Lowes wanted $17.
Why do electricians run switch loops for everything? In many cases, it would save wire to run power to the switch and then on to the light. The lower switch in much closer to the breaker box than the light. I also noticed the bedroom light has 2 cables running to it, the power, and then a second switch loop back to the switch. That switch in in the same wall cavity as the relocated switch. Fortunately I though about that before cutting a hole in the wall board.
The old switch doesn’t have a screw to ground the switch frame. I doubt any of the ones in the house built in 1970 do. Does reinstalling it in a new location violate code? At least the house is new enough it is wired with w ground cable and 3 prong outlets.
Note, nobody here sells 14-3 by the foot either. I had to go with a 25’ coil. You can buy 15’ coils too.
Since about 1970, the code was changed to allow the screws that hold the switch into the box to be rated as sufficient grounding. Assuming that it’s a metal box, and the ground wire is attached to the box. If it’s a plastic box, then wrapping the ground wire from the cable under that screw is your best choice – it will ground the switch frame. That isn’t much risk anyway – when the cover is on, there is no exposed metal on a switch.
Given the cost of setting up a measuring/cutting station, and the wages of the store employee for the time taken to do this, and to mark it for the cash register clerk, it just not cost effective. The store would probably have to charge as much for a 6-foot cut to order piece as a 15 or 25 foot prepackaged coil.
older switches are grounded by the metal yoke touching the metallic grounded box.