Best way to make ten grand work for me.

Risk is directly related to reward. That’s obvious, but it’s easy to forget. Right now, probably the best balancing of risk and reward that are easily accessible to the average investor would be large cap stocks with a good dividend yield. That’s going to be big well know companies like J&J, Boeing, etc. I don’t know how good the yield is on those specific examples, but that’s sort of company I mean.

I would avoid bonds unless it is going to be a short term investment. It’s anybody’s guess when the Federal Reserve will tighten up on monetary policy and interest rates will start to rise but I think the odds are good that this will happen in the next year or two. That means you will see a capital loss on bonds purchased when the rates were lower.

If you want to go extremely high risk there are things like options and Forex (trading currencies). But I wouldn’t touch those unless you really know what you’re doing.

+1

Yep! Roulette was the first thing I thought of also.

The first thing to invest in is an education about investing. A good place to start is www.motleyfool.com

For most Americans, the first thing to do is pay off your credit cards. Dropping a 12% plus loss is the same thing as a 12% plus gain.

Most safe forms of investing (savings accounts, certificates of deposit, savings bonds, and money market accounts) are earning less than 2%. Paying off even a 4% auto loan beats that.

If it was me, I’d be investing in house repairs.

Oh dear. The roulette suggestion was apparently serious.

QFT. If you have any debt at interest rates above zero, anything you pay down is better than any investment. Or rather, it’s the least risky way to maximize your use of the money. Certainly you could buy 10,000 lottery tickets; if you did that, you could take the winnings and buy a movie ticket, but no popcorn.

If you have no debt, do you have three months’ living expenses in cash or other liquid assets for emergencies? Okay, six months?

If you have those covered but are not taking advantage of a company match in your 401K (assuming one is available), well, start contributing an amount that will maximize that and let the $10K be part of your general fund. If you’re already maximizing any match, put it in an IRA.

If you’re maxxed out on your IRA/other retirement funding, I’d agree with the education idea if you think you can benefit from that. However, this falls into the general category of investing in yourself, and I’d add that “peace of mind” and “fun” can also be components of that. So you could buy GLD and SPY, take that trip to Paris or, obviously, hookers and blow.

I have no debts. I also have no job. I would like to not touch this money for a long, long time. I do have enough in my checking account without this money to live for a couple of months while job hunting. I really just want to know where to park it where it will earn the most interest.

Right now, nowhere that is safe will it earn much interest, and you aren’t in a place where you can risk it. Put it in a money market savings account. It won’t earn interest (or nothing worth mentioning), it will be there.

If you google search, several sites will list banks paying decent insured rates to get depositors.

True story.
I won $10,000 on a keno machine here in Las Vegas many years ago and even posted a thread about it.
The odds of winning were not good, but I did it!

At any rate:
I went back to school (at UNLV) and got a certificate in Internet Technology that cost about $4000 and then bought a new computer, software and hit the books.

With that new education, plus my other degree, I was able to find a job teaching at at a college and doing what I like to do.

I could have bought a decent car, or paid off some other bills, but decided to invest in myself. BTW, I am no spring chicken, so this was a leap of faith.

I have never regretted doing it (going back to school), and although I still play and lose money in casinos all the time, I still feel I was smart enough to take a fairly big win, turn it into something worthwhile, and it has paid me back many times over. One of the smartest things I have ever done.

I say:
Invest in yourself.
Do something that will help you in your career and allow you to do something you want to do and have a passion for doing!

Very touching story and all, but not really in keeping with the spirit of the OP. Frankly, I’d really like to know the answer myself (although for me it’s currently hypothetical).

What do you financially-minded types think of parking the dough in a bank’s CD? WF, for example, is currently offering CDs in the .15% to 1.9% range. Those are pretty much no-risk, right? How do CDs stack up against other lower-risk options (and what would those be)?

Almost everything else is going to have risk. For example, most people never believed that money market funds were anything less than rock solid. But when Lehman collapsed, there was serious talk of “breaking the buck” (normally the assets of the fund match the deposits on a dollar for dollar basis, but that almost went down tubes).

The only exception that comes to mind would be US Treasury obligations. However unless they are very short term (less than a year or 2 in maturity), you still risk capital loss if interest rates go up and you have to sell before maturity.

Otherwise, if you’re resigned to the fact that you’ll earn next to nothing unless you commit for a CD with a maturity of several years, I would go with a short term CD. Nobody else is going to guarantee your principal and in this environment, there’s a lot to be said for pure capital preservation.

If you want no risk then that’s about what you’re looking at right there.
Stick $10,000 away for 5 years and turn it into $11,000 risk free.
I’d still be more apt to stick it in an index fund. Is there a risk? Yes, but even if you stuck $10K in an index fund 5 years ago and “let-it-ride” until today you would have only lost ~$400. A drop in the bucket compared to 7% you could have made in an index fund if you stuck your money in a year ago.

The biggest difference between a CD and a savings account is

  1. With a CD your money is there for the term or you take a penalty on interest BUT

  2. With a CD your rate is fixed, if interest rates go down, you get your cushy .15%. Of course, if interest rates go up, you get your cushy .15% (which is why longer term CDs have higher rates).

Does anyone have a source (or feel like writing it up themselves here) for a list of the main investment types in order of ascending risk?

Here is a link that I found by doing a quick google search.

Starting from low risk, and ending with high risk they list it as:
Cash
Fixed Interest
Property
Shares

How about using it as a private investor?

I’m sure you know someone or can find someone who needs $10,000. Lend it to them for five years at 5% interest (or whatever terms you reach). Make sure:

  1. Lots of research into being a private investor
  2. Do a super-thorough credit check of the borrower, including a credit history and calculation of debt to income ratio
  3. Study what they want the money for and how they plan to pay it back, including looking at ROI/cash flow calculations
  4. Get a legal Promissory Note signed, with a clear and fair repayment schedule
  5. Look into taking a lien against their property, like a small second lien on their house
  6. Try not to lend to family - too many pitfalls

This can be a great way to have your money work for you, and assuming you set up monthly payments, all of your money isn’t locked into a CD for five years. And 5% is a great interest rate for both you (as it is a much greater return than CDs/MMAs) and for the borrower (5% is a great rate when compared to most second mortgages/equity loans and commercial loans).

I don’t know where you live, but here’s one possible scenario: certificates of deposit. $2000 in each of a 1-year, 2-year, 3-year, 4-year, and 5-year CD. At the end of the 1st year, you can reap the benefits or reinvest for 5 years, in a CD or in something else. At the end of the 2nd year, the same. Ditto every year.

If you need to deplete the $10K for some ready cash, you’re a year at most away from $2000 of it at any time, and if you need it all, I think you can still get it, but there’s a stiff penalty.

Or, if the CD rates are more favorable for bigger hunks, readjust this strategy. You do usually get a better rate the more you put in, and the longer the term.

I agree with the other recent posters … if you want no risk, it’s going to be CDs at a bank, and if you go that way, staggering chunks of CDs (say, four $2500 1-year CDs, all started three months apart), is a good model for that. For a teeny bit more risk, a money market at something like ING (ingdirect dot com) pays 1.1% APY (as of today). My advice to you is to go with a money market.

The following is all YMMV territory, but I’m giving honest details about what I’d actually do in your position. I’ve been doing well the past several years, but only because I made several lifetimes’ worth of bad financial decisions before the age of 40.

Put $7000 into Sharebuilder dot com, half in GLD (a gold ETF) and half in a blue-chip with a decent yield (one of: {PG, MCD, MO, GIS, etc.}), and set up the account to buy $200 worth of the same blue chip every month, withdrawing from your checking account, which is where you park the remaining $3000. Sharebuilder gives you zero-cost dividend reinvestments (in fractional shares, down to the thousandths of shares), which is a very good thing. The problem is that the monthly purchases cost $4, which is 2% of $200, which offsets some of the dividend yields, which is why you choose Altria (MO), whose yield is over 6%, and try not to think about all the lung cancer. I’m weird about it and feel better buying PG (Procter & Gamble) with half the yield of MO, but I invest $1500 per month, so the $4 transaction fee is only 0.27%. Then I’d obsess over it and try to manage to be in a place to continue the monthly purchases after the $3000 ran out. Note: The primary reason I’m talking about Sharebuilder is because of their no-cost dividend reinvestments in fractional shares.

I’m confident that the old reliable blue-chips with dividends are a safe bet, but that’s my opinion. Consumer staples, tobacco and fast food are not really going to disappear from the landscape, and people will not make dramatic changes in their purchasing habits of these items, but Exxon and AT&T are more volatile due to random government policies and arguments over cell phone coverage. Also, the consumer staples are at P/E ratios in the low teens, which is rational and understandable, as opposed to tech companies with P/E ratios in the 30s and 40s.

If the $4 per month for periodic sharebuilder purchases bugs you (and all fees should bug you), you could open an account at TD Ameritrade and put it all into TIP, which is a T-bill ETF whose yield is indexed to inflation. In fact, if you want to go riskier than money markets, putting it all into TIP is the next higher risk that I’d advise. (But only if they reinvest dividends at no cost in fractional shares; I’m getting tired at the moment and don’t want to look it up. If they don’t offer free dividend reinvestment, I’d really want to nudge you into sharebuilder.) When I started, I felt very nervous about $400 per month, which is what I started with, but I’ve literally funnelled every raise in the past several years into increasing that investment.

[my positions, just in case you care]
At the moment, my non-401K holdings are cash (60%), GLD (32%), AGG (6% – just an experiment), PG (4%) and tbills (treasurydirect dot com). The t-bills are really just there gathering dust, with the account set up so I can move a lot into short term t-bills in a very short period of time, for some notional future emergency that may occur. The PG is so low because I’m just getting back into it after getting nervous about having too much GLD. I.e., my monthly periodic investment is no longer gold, and I’ll be buying $1500 in PG every month until I change it. I’ve gone into and out of AAPL several times in the past several years for quick gains before product announcements, but it’s scary because I go in specifically to get a predictable 2-5% bump, which means I need to go in big ($10K purchases), and get out within a week (two weeks in one case). The thing that bugs me is that all stocks are way too volatile, because the crackheads on Wall Street need to make the markets move in large directions so they can suck off their little derivatives, high frequency transactions and other bullshit. But that’s the way the market is at the moment, and I’m not seeing any real work to reform that – they don’t see their very existence as a problem in need of solving. IAC, it is what it is, and I try to identify predictable changes that have some basis in events I can understand.

The bulk of my 401K is in an S&P index fund, which I’ve left basically untouched since 2008 and which has recouped some of its losses, but only because I got cynical and assumed that they’d play games to make the market appear to recover, and that’s what they’ve done. I continue to purchase it, but at a lower rate, and I buy the same amount of “fixed” investments. I also buy a little bit of a health technology index fund, which is my version of buying lottery tickets.

And I continue to learn new things – right now, and in the near future, there is an increasing need for software designers who can work in cryptography, secure computing and information assurance.
[/my positions]

Please note that my aritmetic was not correct, as I was doing a lot of things in my head while rewatching the first two episodes of Firefly. To approximately correct the amounts, the T-Bills would be 3%, and then all of the numbers need to be normalized down to add up to 100%.

Energy companies tend to pay decent dividends. So do telecoms. If you were to choose the “blue chips with dividends” way, you are looking for something that stays steady, doesn’t have a lot of up and down in its stock price - and pays over 3%. I wouldn’t, because tomorrow Pitney Bowes (which fits this profile nicely and which I have a number of shares of) might get caught in an accounting scandal ala Enron, and your $10k would be worth $2k - or less. If you had money to play with, this isn’t a bad scheme.