Another good one. I want an extra big shower, so it will almost certainly have to be custom built. Is there an alternative to tile that is easier to clean and maintain, but doesn’t look like plastic?
Not much to tell. Other than reading and watching TV, the only hobbies me and Mrs. Sinclair have are all outdoors-oriented, so we don’t need a hobby room other than maybe a media room, and since I like to watch TV while I make sandwiches and eat sandwiches and rinse the sandwich dish, that means an island kitchen with the sink in the island.
I guess I might get into woodworking some time in the future, will I need special outlets for that, or just more regular ones?
No coherent plans yet, except I want a den with no windows so I can sleep during the day even if the neighbors are mowing the lawn or something, and I don’t want any stairs.
This, a hundred thousand times this. Also, seriously consider putting these recepticles in your kitchen. We had them in a kitchen and we loved it. Think about everything in the kitchen that gets plugged in… Coffee pot, microwave, teakettle,mixer, whatever. In our current kitchen we have three outlets and no plug-ins free due to everything we have in there that needs power. So think ahead and plan your for your power needs accordingly.
Same advice for the bedroom. We have bedside lamps, clocks, cellphone chargers, a CPAP machine, a white noise machine, and a floor lamp plugged into the one outlet near the bed. I would love to have the double outlets on each side of the bed. If I ever build a house I will use double outlets exclusively.
Great idea, thank you. Along with that, I think I’m going to ask for extra circuits (maybe just 10-amp) to the rooms with computers, so the computers can be on their own circuit, so I won’t lose data if a space heater or something trips the breaker.
When we remodeled our house in Seattle, part of the deal was that I got to have a garage built with the ‘extra’ money. I put in a ton of fluorescent lights (would now just do LED tubes or whatever) as workshop space really demands BRIGHT. And I added 50 and 30 amp 240v outlets which the contractors laughed at. I showed them; I had both of those in use a few months after the garage was finished.
What Lancia and Chefguy said. Think of the amount of outlets you would find reasonable, then double it. If the number of outlets seems excessive to you, it will probably be almost enough. That holds especially in the kitchen.
Also, make kitchen outlets not only at the worktop level, but also at the upper cabinet level. Appliances like vents are installed in the upper cabinets, and if you keep their outlet behind or above the upper cabinets, the plug and cord are out of the way.
Against one wall in my kitchen, I installed two broad shelves instead of upper cabinets. I’m very happy I built in outlets above each shelf when the walls were finshed. Those shelfs, and outlets hold the internet radio, the under shelf lighting, and the phone chargers.
Where did you get the idea that tankless water heaters run only on electricity?
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Great idea, thank you. Along with that, I think I’m going to ask for extra circuits (maybe just 10-amp) to the rooms with computers, so the computers can be on their own circuit, so I won’t lose data if a space heater or something trips the breaker.
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You can’t do 10 amp circuits in the US - 15 is the minimum, and the current practice is to recommend 20 amp circuits for receptacles. Lighting is still usually done with 15 amp circuits.
After paying someone to drill all the holes, run cable, mount a breaker in the panel and install the receptacle(s), the incremental cost to go to 20 amps from 15 is tiny.
If you have the panel space, there’s certainly nothing wrong with having each room’s receptacles or even each receptacle on a dedicated circuit. Just takes a lot of panel space and a lot of wire. One thing you definitely want to do is keep lighting separate from receptacles so if you do overload something, you’re not plunged into darkness.
Someone mentioned double receptacles on either side of beds - excellent idea, and consider adding a single receptacle at the bed’s midline so you can plug in the electric blanket, Sleep Number controller, etc.
Kitchens - Give serious thought to running the kitchen off a 60 or even 100 amp subpanel in the pantry. The code requirements for kitchen wiring have greatly increased the number of circuits, many of which must be dedicated lines for things like the disposer, dishwasher, microwave, plus obvious ones like for an electric range or wall oven. Putting the fridge on its own line is a really good idea as well.
Bathrooms - minimum of one dedicated 20-amp line per bathroom, and it’s not stupid to run two lines per bathroom to prevent nuisance trips when someone forgets to unplug the curling iron before using the hair dryer.
Oh, if you’re worried about data loss on the computers, get a UPS. You can design a very robust electrical system that’s immune to overloads from hair dryers and vacuum cleaners, but you have no control over people having accidents and driving into utility poles or bad weather knocking out the neighborhood.
By code, all appliances (even the disposal) must be on dedicated circuits.
Have a hidden space for valuables created within the structure somewhere. Easily accessed, well concealed! Very little cost involved, very handy to have!
In the kitchen have one counter installed at just below hip height, it makes chopping, kneading, any food prep mucho easier. (Have it now, wish I’d done it years ago, what a difference!)
Most tankless gas heaters still require electricity to run. And even if it had a piezoelectric starter like the tank gas heater I’m looking at, you can’t be jumping out of the shower to restart it.
There are other issues, as well. I’m going to have a “car wash” shower, with a lot of body jets. It will need up to 10 gal/min if I crank everything on (which I won’t except for a couple minutes for the final rinse, but I want those couple minutes. I’ll make up for it by not having a lawn, only drought-resistant plants). The largest capacity tankless gas heater I’ve found that doesn’t cost over twice what a 50-gallon tank heater costs claims 9.8 gal/min, but if you read the fine print, that’s for a 40 degree increase. In the winter, that would get me only 80 degree water, which is unacceptable.
What is the advantage of having a separate subpanel, as opposed to dedicated circuits on the main panel? I do plan to have the main panel indoors, rather than in the garage.
Yeah, I’ll do that, but I’ve had terrible luck with them in the past. I’ve had a couple very high-end units, one from APC and another whose brand I forget, and they both stopped working after less than a year. IIRC one was still under warranty, but that didn’t help, because it weighed a ton and I would have had to pay shipping both ways for a refurbished replacement.
Skylights. Especially in your bathroom. There is no light like natural light and there is no natural light like that which comes from above, rather than from the side. If possible, try and center it above the vanity, and just a bit back. And if you have a any longish hallways, put one or two in there. If you can get one int he kitchen, that’s great.
Be sure your shower has a nice bench in it. If you like long showers, you might want to sit through some of them! 
Plus it’s nice to have something to step on when washing your legs/feet.
Soft close drawers, especially in the kitchen, are a very inexpensive upgrade.
Skylights rock, but if structurally they pose a problem, look into light tubes like solatube Daylighting and Occupant Comfort - Solatube
Unless you’re doing gigantic skylights, or the place you want them is a peak or a valley in the roof, there should be no structural issues.
I thought about skylights, but I decided against them. Everything I’ve read about roofs says to keep the number of holes in it as low as possible. I’m not worried about leaks or structural integrity issues, but there is no avoiding heat loss, or a disruption to the attic ventilation (soffit vent to ridge vent).
I agree about natural light (and ventilation) in the bathrooms, and will make sure that they all have an outside wall.
Thanks for the link. Those seem like they mitigate some of the drawbacks of skylights – a ten-inch round tube would not have the issues that a 2’ square skylight would – and I think one might be especially useful in my windowless den. I’ll have to look into these.
Agree on all counts. I think it will be a portable bench, though, so it can wait.
Yup, soft close drawers and cabinets are on the list.
I think one of the best things we did was a central vacuum system with the exhaust plumbed outside. It’s definitely easier to install before drywall.
If you do Christmas lights put outlets in the eaves connected to switch inside. If you want you can replace the switch with a timer.
I thought quartz and granite were comparable in price. And I believe that granite needs to be resealed every six months or so, while quartz does not.