Scratches Soul from list of cars to buy.
The problem isn’t that it does not have a spare, but there is NO PLACE TO PUT ONE.
Fix-a-flat is pointless when the tire blows out or gets eaten by a pothole.
I really like Mazdas and am on my third, but it depends on what you need your car for. Edmunds.com has some good info including reviews and shopping tools that help you figure out what car is right for you and what is a reasonable price. For my last car, we did all the research and then used TrueCar; we just put out the specs for exactly the car we wanted with the extras we wanted and bought from who ever had the best price. A few of the dealers contacted us and tried to offer alternatives, but we just ignored those offer. We walked in, bought our car and walked out.
For this, I’d say test drive the Fit and buy it if it’s big enough. If you need something a little bigger, then I’m back to the Mazda3, Civic, or Impreza.
Consider them. I’ve driven Nissans since they were still called Datsun, and I’ve loved every one. Most of them have been trucks, I’ll admit, but they run forever with regular upkeep. In fact, I just bought a new one last week. Bigger than what you want, unfortunately. Sentras are hard to kill and ought to fit right in with your needs.
Another wrinkle to consider is warranty. A lot of makes may offer something like 10 years/100,000 miles coverage to the original owner, but far less or even nothing to someone who buys it as a used car.
As for spare tires, prepare to scratch a lot of makes and models off your list as it’s becoming more and more common to sell cars with an “inflation kit” instead of a spare. Not sure about other makes, but as mentioned above, you can buy a spare tire and jack kit for a Soul that fits right where you’d expect it to under the trunk’s carpet.
Many cars are sold in markets besides the US where they still include the spare so the space is there, it’s just filled with removable insert. If you’re wondering about whether there is a spare or not the quickest way to check is on the badge either on the glove box door or drivers side door jam that lists the recommended tire pressures. The spare should be listed, too, and if there isn’t one it will say so.
I can sort of appreciate a tiny bit of angst regarding the spare tire, but I have only had to use a spare tire once in the past 20 years or so. And every car I have owned has had a limited-range “donut” spare, not a full-size one. Perhaps it’s one consideration, but I don’t think I’d let this tail wag the dog. But, as always, YMMV.
I would say the first decision is related to size. Does a Civic/Corolla/Sentra/Mazda3 size work, or is the back seat and trunk too small? If so, you need to go up to the Accord/Camry/Altima/Mazda6/Sonata size sedan. But I still say that I wouldn’t buy a Honda, Toyota or Subaru used, as they hold too much of their value. Look at Nissan, Mazda, Hyundai, Kia and Ford instead. I don’t know that there is a better used car value than a Hyundai or Kia that is a couple of years old, as it still has a new car warranty until 5 years/60k miles.
Good advice.
What are you using the car for? If it’s commuting or mostly city driving, the above cars will do a good job. I have a 08 Fit for commuting. It’s bullet proof.
Also, pick up a copy of Consumer Report’s April magazine. It’s their annual car edition and has lots of useful info.
Oh, and altho Toyotas are fine cars, never, ever, buy *anything *from a Toyota dealer. Never. No. Dont do it.
I was in a similar position two years ago with a '95 Olds and $20k budget. I’m single, childless, and prefer a smaller car. I mostly drive on residential streets and on the freeway to and from work. Several times a year, I drive on the highway where the speed limit is 75, but I may need to hit 90 to pass someone.
I spent $30 and got a years online subscription to consumer reports. I read their used car guide a couple of times. I purchased the Kelley Bluebook app. I gave myself about a month of reading, checking prices, and doing test drives.
I decided the car for me was either the Mazda 3 or the Toyota Corolla. I ended up with a certified used Corolla for $16k that was a year old. I’ve had no problems at all. I love my little putt putt. The mileage is good and I’ve had no problem getting up the speed to pass someone on a two lane highway. I could have bought a 2012 for about $12k, but I wanted the Bluetooth radio for the hands free ability. Also I wanted a usb port that played through the radio. Not that big a deal in town, but a big asset on six hour drives through west Texas with crap or non-existent radio.
When was the last time you got a blow out? Dont you have AAA?
I always thought it was weird to not have a spare, but I can’t remember the last time I had to change a tire. I’ve never had a blowout or something where the tire wouldn’t be usable. So I probably could have managed my whole life with just a can of fix-a-flat in the car instead of a spare.
And even if there was a blowout, it would be such a rare event that I’m guessing the cost savings from improved mileage would more than pay for getting a tow.
So while I like the security of having a spare, not having a spare doesn’t seem to be that much of a real issue.
Thus ends the test driving for this week. Been all over the city this week at different dealerships. The choice is coming sooner than I thought.
So, it looks like I’m going to go with a 2015 Nissan Sentra I4 CVT SV This is not the car, it’s actually red, but this is the style. I’m going to be able to come in just under the price I was hoping for, so that’s pretty good. I still need to figure out how to read the meters; I don’t know if it has 155 miles or 17 miles on the odometer right now. Of course, there was some upselling from the (semi-cute) sales lady, but that’s expected. Also, it was only a level one upsell, not a two- or three. I did end up caving on a lot of the luxury features (back up camera, bluetooth and custom floor mats that I don’t need) but in some models this is a given, so I’m not that upset. Also its engine is a tad zoomier. Call it wiggle factor for tech splurge. I sat in a few one-level-down models but all of them felt like I was wearing a T-shirt that was about one-half size too small. Not a huge factor, but just not comfy. I’m willing to bump up a sales price a TAD for overall comfort.
Another reason for this dealer of choice: The only one in the city (possibly the nation) that offers LIFETIME roadside assistance, LIFETIME limited warranty and FREE rental cars (for the original owner). So there’s lots of savings in the service warranty alone over the life of the vehicle.
What I did find odd is the last time I purchased new (Saturn), I was able to super-customize everything, right down to the floor mats I didn’t need (but bought anyway). We took about two hours to place the order and it was delivered in one week. This was in 1994. When I told both sales folks this, they both laughed. This place says “what we got is what we get from the Dealer. We don’t custom build. Take it or leave it 'cuz it might not be here tomorrow.” Times has changed. So it goes.
Now for the financing. Looking at my credit union vs. dealer financing, there’s a few options. The best case from the dealer is to take a 3 year lease (which provides greater $$ in rebate discounts up front), NO SALES TAX, TT&L and all that jazz, smaller monthly payments and refinance after 3 years on approx. 50% of the value of the original sale (plus balloon payment; I’ve already figured that in because the manager, not the semi-cute sales lady went and fetched the exact $$$ amount when I asked. Seems there’s some sort of mandatory disclosure law in TX that I wasn’t aware of. Goody.) This provides a total savings of approx. $1500 over the life of the note. The interest on the refi will be just about that, so it comes out in the wash at the end of the note. Pretty much break even after all the discounts - maybe even a little better.
From the credit union, I get a very similar interest rate, but lose half of the rebates and there is now sales tax added up front. The monthly payments will be about 50% more, but the difference in my insurance rates (purchase vs lease) take a bit of the bite out of that cost. Bottom line on this option is that I’ll come out paying more in interest on the loan which makes daily cost much more. It might be appx. $4K over my bottom line at the end of the day.
So I think I’m going w/ the lease+refi, but I’m a bit apprehensive about the deal. I had a lease back in '86 and it didn’t turn out great. I’ve talked to a few friends and one guy who is in car sales and we all agree the times have changed in the automotive sales field. As long as there are no funky clauses in the lease, I think I might be comfortable going down this road. Oh, and there’s this guy at work who consistently tries to convince me about the greater savings over a lifetime of taking a lease vs. owning, but I just don’t see it. However, that’s a whole other kettle of fish.
Another test drive in the books for tomorrow. I hope it’s going to rain like hell like it did today - I will get to check out the handling in the rain at highway speeds.
Oh, yeah. And besides: It’s a RED car, Rudy! (NSFW nuns and bad language)
You seems to have ignored many of us suggesting the Fit.
I dont suggest Nissan. It’s a Japanese car without the vaunted Japanese reliability.
Yes, they most certainly do custom built. You were given a hard ball sales pitch. Based upon that alone, I’d skip that dealer.
Dont lease. Buy. Yes, the payments are more but at the end you own the car.
Everyone I know has gotten a bad deal from a lease- one exception being a high end sales guy that needs a new car every couple years and he gets his company to pay for a lot of it. You* will *exceed your miles. You will owe more.
You will pay sales tax after the lease ends, if you want the car.
If it’s 4K over your bottom line, find another car. You were given the hard sell high pressure, complete with cute sales lady .
You made a call on this yet, Brother?
I’ll bet the "semi-cute sales lady " talked him into leasing the Nissan. 
*The financial workings of leasing are so confusing that people don’t realize that leasing invariably costs more than an equivalent loan. *
The Sentra turns out to have a terrible rating from Consumer Reports, pretty much at the bottom of its class.
He may not have, but I did and I’ll share.
I ended up with a cute little Fiat 500 manual from a couple of years back. That car in general has got a few noted issues, but I was aware of them before we bought it, and we have a repair warranty that I’m satisfied with. I know it is dropping value like a rock, but I didn’t get it to re-sell, and it’s not intended to last longer than about 5 years.
I’m pretty happy with it, other than the whole “learning to drive a stick” process, which really is the “conduct a live poll of how horrid all of your neighbors are when you stall out in the intersection three times in a row” process.
And no pretty lady (or gentleman) pressured me in to anything.