Oh, sure, that’s exactly the sort of thing you elitist professional mechanics always say. The equally-valid shadetree approach states that since you’re saving so much money on labor, there’s no need to verify if the part is actually bad before replacing it. Since we don’t have your fancy dealer-only headlight position checking tool, we’ll just change the battery, alternator, relays, bulbs, maybe some of the wiring, and then the switch itself and it should be good as new!
I do highly recommend the factory headlight switch position detection tool #999-OU812
However for the shade tree guy you can just beat on the switch with a BFH* until the switch breaks.
Then when replacing the switch, you can note the position before installation.
*BFH= Big Fucking Hanmer
had this problem.
turned out the seat goes up seat goes down thingy motor was constantly running.
new motor and $200 fixed the irritation.
motion sickness cause you to fix it?
I had a car that would happen to intermittently. I never could track it down, but ended up disconnecting the battery cable everynight. It was a pain, but I got used to it.
I thought he was referring to Isilder’s post:
Anyway, I’m not sure about this one:
Most recent Hyundai models come with immobilizers. The alarm should have sounded if the immobilizer was active, though.
The OP doesn’t own a voltmeter and has few technical skills. I’d say that telling the OP to take it to someone that knows what they are doing is pretty close to right on.
Lots of cars come with immobilizers. What’s your point? The description in the OP in no mirrors what happens in a car with immo issues.
This is not am immo issue. Period.