Thirding and or fourthing the toothpick/dowel and wood glue suggestions, I have done both on multiple occasions. Just adding that, which ever fill you use, it’s also worth replacing the existing screws with new longer ones if possible, which should slow the initial problem’s re-occurance.
All good thoughts, thanks!
After fixing and installing many screen door closers I would recommend re-mounting the closer so that the screws are biting into new material. Mounting location on either door or jamb can be moved a little without majorly affecting operation.
There is a lot of force applied to the bracket on the door jamb and these should be big #12 screws. I strongly recommend piloting the holes for screws of this size.
I think packing the holes with match sticks etc is a half assed fix. If you were going to go this route, I think it is worth filing the screw hole completely with a glued in dowel or golf tee and re drilling.
This carpenter’s opinion.
Cool! Can you introduce me to Richard?
What about plaster?
I’m installing new sidewall registers, and the old holes have all bust apart, so there’s pretty much nothing to screw into. I don’t even know how the originals screwed in, or even if they did - the previous owner had just jam(b)ed floor registers into the vent.
So, I’ve got screws that need to go into plaster, and in some cases holes in the plaster. I think for the smaller holes an anchor might work.
This is a royal pain that I run into regularly when finishing a project. Anchors for holes that are small or intact enough is always worth a try. If you can access the back side of the plaster/drywall you can always install some wood or other backing material that will hold a screw. Sometimes you can angle the screws enough to grab drywall or reach wood. Double sided sticky tape will work in some cases or as a last resort, silicone/adhesive caulk to hold the grille in place.
Cripples and jack studs are different things. Jack studs support the header above a window or door. They run from the floor to the bottom of the header, holding up the header and transferring its weight to the floor (instead of crushing the window or door). Cripples are shorter pieces which fill in the space between the jack studs to provide additional support and a place to attach drywall, outlets, etc. For a window there may be cripples both above and below the window; for a door they’re only above the door.
Some people call jack studs “trimmers”, but if there’s a PC term for cripples I’ve never heard it.
Where I’m from we used cripples for just about anything that wasn’t stud length. Your answer agrees with the internet but I’m not sure of a reason you need two names.
My main point was that you don’t need to fix a hole in the jamb with toothpicks and glue sawdust and fairy magic. A long enough screw will find the jack stud and and the stud next to it.
Its a funny distinction that there is no consensus about in the industry. The carpentry program here in Alberta teaches that a jack supports a header or beam and cripples are the shorter members that support a sill. Every single framer or carpenter or engineer or inspector I have met in Calgary calls it the other way around though.