# Chevrolet V-6 (3.6 liter) Engine: How Hard To Change Sparkplugs? **URL:** \ **Category:** Factual Questions\ **Created:** [April 8, 2013, 4:28pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/chevrolet-v-6-3-6-liter-engine-how-hard-to-change-sparkplugs/655163 "2013-04-08T16:28:26Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 8\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![ralph124c](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/8797f3/32.png) [@ralph124c](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/ralph124c)\ **Post date:** [April 8, 2013, 4:28pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/chevrolet-v-6-3-6-liter-engine-how-hard-to-change-sparkplugs/655163/1 "2013-04-08T16:28:26Z")
I have the Saturn version (2007 Aura), at I just hit 100,000 miles. The front bank is easy-just remove the coils and extract the plugs. However, the rear bank is covered by a big aluminum plenum (part of the intake manifold-it looks like this has to come off. It is secured by 6 hex head bolts-it looks like this would be it. Has anyone done this job? ---
**Author:** ![Gary\_T](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/3ec8ea/32.png) [@Gary\_T](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Gary_T)\ **Post date:** [April 8, 2013, 5:26pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/chevrolet-v-6-3-6-liter-engine-how-hard-to-change-sparkplugs/655163/2 "2013-04-08T17:26:12Z")
According to the official instructions, you need to remove the fuel injector sight shield(s?) to get to any of the coils, plus the canister purge tube to get to the #5 coil. Book time 1.5 for the set. ---
**Author:** ![Machine\_Elf](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/m/82dd89/32.png) [@Machine\_Elf](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Machine_Elf)\ **Post date:** [April 8, 2013, 5:32pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/chevrolet-v-6-3-6-liter-engine-how-hard-to-change-sparkplugs/655163/3 "2013-04-08T17:32:27Z")
Not on your car, but I recently changed spark plugs on a 2003 Nissan Maxima, and it was the same deal. Down between the heads is the manifold, and on top of that is the lower intake collector (splits one stream into 6), which mostly obscures the rear cylinder bank. Upstream of that is the upper intake collector, which connects the lower collector to the throttle body. Both collectors had to come off, and along the way a bunch of accessory junk (vacuum hoses, brackets, etc.). Nothing ridiculous, but it was a lot of tedious work. If you’re unclear on what exactly is involved, I would strongly recommend picking up a service manual (e.g. [Chilton](http://www.chiltondiy.com/), or maybe [one of these](http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0&_nkw=saturn+aura+service+manual&_sacat=0&_from=R40)). It’ll tell you exactly what to do, including which gaskets you’ll want to replace along the way, what torque specs to use, and in what order to remove/install parts. ---
**Author:** ![Hail\_Ants](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/h/dc4da7/32.png) [@Hail\_Ants](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Hail_Ants)\ **Post date:** [April 9, 2013, 4:47am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/chevrolet-v-6-3-6-liter-engine-how-hard-to-change-sparkplugs/655163/4 "2013-04-09T04:47:01Z")
Just like to add that if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. IOW nothing special happens at 100K that means the spark plugs \*have \*to be changed. Even if the manual recommends it, it’s still kind of an arbitrary figure. Tune-ups haven’t been necessary on cars at all for well over 15 years. If your car is running fine, don’t bother (and getting to the firewall side of transverse V6 plugs can be a \*\*\*huge \*\*\*bother!) ---
**Author:** ![Gary\_T](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/3ec8ea/32.png) [@Gary\_T](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Gary_T)\ **Post date:** [April 9, 2013, 5:22am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/chevrolet-v-6-3-6-liter-engine-how-hard-to-change-sparkplugs/655163/5 "2013-04-09T05:22:40Z")
> [@Hail\_Ants](#): > > Just like to add that if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. This is maintenance to keep it from becoming broke > [@](#): > > IOW nothing special happens at 100K that means the spark plugs \*have \*to be changed. Even if the manual recommends it, it’s still kind of an arbitrary figure. It’s true that it doesn’t have to be done right at 100K, which is a conservative figure > [@](#): > > Tune-ups haven’t been necessary on cars at all for well over 15 years. True in that “tune-up” as it was most commonly understood decades ago is an obsolete term. However, spark plug replacement (which is what’s most commonly meant nowadays by shops that still cling to it) is a valid and necessary (eventually) maintenance procedure. > [@](#): > > If your car is running fine, don’t bother… Gotta disagree here. Waiting until there are symptoms takes it from a maintenance item to a repair situation. This can mean extra expense for testing/diagnosis (e.g. a bad spark plug can exhibit the same symptom as a bad coil) and sometimes further damage (e.g. a bad spark plug can overstress a coil and cause its failure). > [@](#): > > …(and getting to the firewall side of transverse V6 plugs can be a \*\*\*huge \*\*\*bother!) I will agree with that! ---
**Author:** ![shaunmike](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/258eb7/32.png) [@shaunmike](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/shaunmike)\ **Post date:** [April 9, 2013, 11:46am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/chevrolet-v-6-3-6-liter-engine-how-hard-to-change-sparkplugs/655163/6 "2013-04-09T11:46:32Z")
I have the Saturn version (2007 Aura), at I just hit 100,000 miles. The front bank is easy-just remove the coils and extract the plugs. However, the rear bank is covered by a big aluminum plenum (part of the intake manifold-it looks like this has to come off. It is secured by 6 hex head bolts-it looks like this would be it. Has anyone done this job? Reply With Quote ---
**Author:** ![Hail\_Ants](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/h/dc4da7/32.png) [@Hail\_Ants](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Hail_Ants)\ **Post date:** [April 9, 2013, 1:01pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/chevrolet-v-6-3-6-liter-engine-how-hard-to-change-sparkplugs/655163/7 "2013-04-09T13:01:08Z")
> [@Gary\_T](#): > > Gotta disagree here. Waiting until there are symptoms takes it from a maintenance item to a repair situation. This can mean extra expense for testing/diagnosis (e.g. a bad spark plug can exhibit the same symptom as a bad coil) and sometimes further damage (e.g. a bad spark plug can overstress a coil and cause its failure). All valid points, but another thing to keep in mind is that changing spark plugs on this kind of engine format can sometimes be _beyond the capability_ of a backyard mechanic and should be left to a professional. If you don’t get the socket on a spark plug straight you can easily break the ceramic part taking it off (which means it now must be removed & replaced.) Also, if the plug’s fitting is really hard to get to and you cross thread the new one putting it in you’re really in deep shit, because you may easily strip the threads on the head (most all engine heads are aluminum). That will be a \*\*\*very \*\*\*costly repair! ---
**Author:** ![ralph124c](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/8797f3/32.png) [@ralph124c](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/ralph124c)\ **Post date:** [May 15, 2013, 6:23pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/chevrolet-v-6-3-6-liter-engine-how-hard-to-change-sparkplugs/655163/8 "2013-05-15T18:23:34Z")
Well, I just finished the job…except for plug No. 6-its against the firewall, with a big piece of the intake manifold over it. There is no way to fit a socket into this-even with a flexible coupling. All of the old plugs were in fine shape (gay still withing specs). No evidence of oil or excessive ash. So I guess I’m good. It took me close to two hours, but I went slowly and made sure everything was put back right.😉