I think Phnom Penh is definitely worth a look. While you could easily while away a whole week at Angkor Wat, four days is a good amount of time. But in Phnom Penh, the Killing Fields and the old Tuol Sleng torture center used by the Khmer Rouge (a former high school! and in a peaceful residential area to boot) alone are worth the trip. Phnom Penh seems to grow safer every year, BUT I would not wander the streets at night away from the river. You’re okay by the river at night (but still don’t carry lots of cash on you). In fact, I recommend that’s where you stay, by the river. It’s been awhile since we’ve been there, but we’ve stayed at the Riverside Hotel and been happy with that. We got a BIG river-view room for US35 a night, but that’s been a couple of years or so now, and prices may have gone up. It should still be a good deal for the money, though. I believe the back rooms have a nice view of Wat Phnom.
Another good riverside place to stay if you want to treat yourself is the Foreign Correspondents’ Club. You do NOT have to be a reporter to stay there. It’s mainly a restaurant/bar, but they have I think it’s three very nice rooms that they let out. Done out very nicely, and great views. (The minibar is clearly aimed at journalists, though, with liter bottles rather than those wimpy miniatures.) Maybe about $60 a night last I heard. Even if you don’t stay there, you must definitely stop by for a meal or a drink. The dining room looks straight out of the colonial area, and being on the top (third) floor, it’s a great place to nurse a beer while staring at the river.
Getting between Siem Reap and Phnom Penh, you can take the bus or the river boat. The river boat is no great shakes, you really can’t see that much. It sounds better than it is. We’ve taken the boat because it was faster, but I believe the road between the two places may be good enough now that the bus is a much better option. (One nice thing about the boat between the two cities is that in Phnom Penh, it docks very close to the Riverside Hotel if you’re staying there. They said they would pick us up, then forgot, but we saw the hotel over about a block away and so just walked to it.) Check the Thorn Tree and Tales of Asia for the latest info in that regard. Under no circumstances should you take the train. Siem Reap is not serviced by the train, but there’s a station in Battambang. It’s not dangerous, it’s just SLOWWWW. You could almost walk to Phnom Penh faster! Really. People for a joke have actually gotten off the train while it’s running, kept up with it at a minor trot and boarded the next car ahead! I even started a thread about it a couple of months ago or so.
Well, I probably should not dump too much on Phuket. It’s definitely a popular place among foreigners and locals alike. But I really think it’s overrated, and some parts are getting a little too built up for my taste. If your friend speaks five languages, Phuket is a likely place to work, what with all the international tourists. Krabi and Phang-Nga are probably more laid back places with just as good or even better scenery and beaches.
Pardon the triple post, but I just thought to mention that a one-day, three-day and one-week pass to the Angkor Wat area is US$20, $40 and $60, respectively, and it’s still worth it to pay for the one-week pass even if you do end up not using the whole week. You’ll still feel like you got your money’s worth. If you visit four days, that’s the same price that a three- and a one-day pass together would have cost you anyway; use it for five days, and you’ve come out ahead. Be sure to take some passport photos for them to use on your pass (which is a cool souvenir in its own right); supposedly they can take your photo on the spot, but you never know, and one should always carry some passport photos around when traveling over here anyway.
We hired a moto-dop (motorcycle with trailor attached) to take us around the temples and wait for us at each one. They charge only about $7 a day if they have not raised their fees. Don’t worry about finding them in town; they’ll find you. For the outlying temples, you’ll need to hire a car and driver for a day, and that’ll run you maybe around $25. We never felt the need to go on an organized tour or hire a “tour guide” per se; the literature that’s out there covers everything pretty well, and we like the freedom of just wandering around on our own.
A couple of friends of mine went to one last year and by all accounts had a great time (they had some alcohol mixed with red bull that they drank out of a bucket that’s supposed to be the signature drink of these parties?) Unfortunately at the ripe old age of 25 I’ve decided I’m too old and tired for all-night partying - I’ll stick to a soft mattress in an air conditioned room, thankyouverymuch!
