I really have to suggest to the OP to just use some tef tape. You do need to wrap it in the right direction, or the female fitting will chase the tape around the male pipe (this is a common mistake of people that don’t know how to use it). You wrap it like you are tightening a fitting on the pipe. Covering the start/free end of the tape with additional tape so you can pull it tight.
[quote = wiki]
Thread seal tape (also known as PTFE tape or plumber’s tape) is a polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) film for use in sealing pipe threads."… and … “The tape also works as a deformable filler and thread lubricant, helping to seal the joint without hardening or making it more difficult to tighten,[3]”… and … “Typically the tape is wrapped around a pipe’s thread three times before it is screwed into place. It is commonly used commercially in applications including pressurized water systems, central heating systems, and air compression equipment.”[/wiki]
Chemours (the trade mark holders) do consider this usage incorrect. But they no longer manufacture it in tape form.
In thousands of times I’ve used this, I’ve never had a problem with leaks. And if the fitting can’t be wrenched to line up properly and have a seal (or break something), it’s a simple matter to add or remove tape. Since this is the problem the OP is having, I have to suggest the tape. Its use has passed State Plumbing Inspections for me.
It takes a little bit of experience to get it wrapped correctly. Including how you hold the role of it to get it properly tight and wound in the right direction. But then that’s it. Snap the ‘hood’ over the roll and set it aside.
Line up or break the fittings? Ummm… Tef tape is much better when you have that difficulty.
I’ve put thousands of feet of poly in the ground for sprinkler systems. But I’m a bit old fashioned too. In the house it must be copper.
Could you put a large “stop” nut on the threaded pipe, to shorten it up, so that you can get the faucet straight without over any worry about stripping the threads?
This is what I have always done: Put a couple of wraps of teflon tape on the threads in the direction the fitting (tap) is going to screw on, tighten the fitting as tight as I can by hand. Use a pipe wrench or slip joint wrench to tighten it to the direction I want it to go.
This is usually sufficient.
Test.
If it leaks, remove the fitting, clean off the, by now, shredded tape. (you don’t have to be too thorough about it. Just wipe off all of the loose stuff.) put 2 or 3 more wraps of tape on the threads, again in the correct direction, and do the same thing I said before. I’ve never had to do it more than twice and it always worked.
Or go buy some of the dope. the problem with the dope that I have had is that after a while it sets up really hard and you run the risk of damaging your plumbing trying to get things apart again.
Well, that’s thinking out of the box. But won’t work. The face of the valve will not seal against the ‘stop’ nut, and will prevent the threads from getting sealed.
The OP has not returned, and we don’t know if they used pipe dope or tape. Perhaps nothing. We don’t know the condition of the nipple. Or how far it’s threaded. And we don’t know just how tight the OP has turned the valve, or if they have a good idea of just how tight you can go (or not).
The solution in my humble but experienced position, is to just use the right amount of Teflon tape. Adjust as needed.
I went for the easiest solution suggested first and bought some plumbers tape for $1.20.
It worked!!! (At least for now)
But I realized I bought the wrong tap without examine the water flow rate first.
It’s a water saving tap that flows water so slow. Any solution to that? Or a new tap? Or just live with slow water?
I’d try taking the valve apart and see if there is some sort of restrictor that you can remove. From the pic, it looks like the black cap on the outflow is treaded in? Perhaps that is the restrictor part. You may be able to just grab that with a pair of pliers/channel locks and screw it out. Otherwise, I’d just get another valve.
