On many newer cars, they have done away with the cotter pin. The nut is torqued down to 200 pound feet.
+1. I believe that tightening lug nuts to proper torque specs is akin to regularly wiping your binocular lenses with a lint free cloth or pulling all of your belts out of the closet every two months to apply a fresh coat of oil to them. Probably a good choice, but chances are that you have more pressing issues in your life to worry about and the marginal cost of doing it exceeds the value.
Unrelated to this topic, but Rick, please check your PMs.
As an added note to this: Always go around and feel to make sure the lug nuts are tight after a rotation, especially at those places that don’t let you watch.
I had the wheel fall off my Tahoe a few years ago, while traveling at 65 on a two lane highway, because the technician didn’t tighten them at all on one wheel.
Quite shocking and scary. First I thought “blow out”, next I thought I was going to die. Then, I couldn’t believe that my wheel was rolling in front of me. As least it bounced off the guard rail and didn’t end up in the Columbia River.
It cost the tire shop a brake rotor (the same one that left the 1 1/2" groove in the pavement while I tried to stop), a ball joint, the plastic trim around the tire well, a new tire and all new studs.
I should have also charged them for the smashed eggs and bread when the case of diet coke launched and landed on top of the most vulnerable groceries 