# Dodge Dakota Driveline Issue(s) **URL:** \ **Category:** In My Humble Opinion\ **Created:** [March 9, 2018, 10:54pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/dodge-dakota-driveline-issue-s/810305 "2018-03-09T22:54:28Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 17\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![MacCat](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/maccat/32/216_2.png) [@MacCat](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/MacCat)\ **Post date:** [March 9, 2018, 10:54pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/dodge-dakota-driveline-issue-s/810305/1 "2018-03-09T22:54:28Z")
2001 4WD 4.7L, automatic, Sport Club Cab. I really like everything about the truck and expect to spend to get into excellent condition. I bought in late 2014 with 136K miles, I now have 204K. It’s shifted hard since I bought it, most noticeable first to second, and second to third. Under acceleration and about to upshift but due to traffic conditions I need to quickly back off, it gives an especially hard shift. I fully expect to need a rebuild sooner rather than later. Recently, after sitting for a day or so, it seemed to not want to engage, but with a little gas, it did. As I pulled out of my driveway and lightly braked for the stop sign (about 40’ away), I got a VERY hard clunk from the rear, almost like a heavy object in the (empty) bed rolled forward. No issues after that. A few days later, again after sitting for a day or so, same exact situation. A couple of days ago, left my driveway in the other direction, stop sign about 300’ feet away, same. This time it did it for several more stops until normalizing. Today even more, until normalizing. I drove to the mechanic but he wasn’t in, so I’ll see him Monday. Appreciate anyone reading this far, and for any thoughts on what to expect. No worries, not desperate, just curious until Monday. Maybe U joints, differential, shackles? My 4WD worked fine in the snow the other night, but maybe transfer case? Driveline “winding up”? ---
**Author:** ![Rocketeer](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/rocketeer/32/4437_2.png) [@Rocketeer](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Rocketeer)\ **Post date:** [March 9, 2018, 11:49pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/dodge-dakota-driveline-issue-s/810305/2 "2018-03-09T23:49:06Z")
Sticky parking brake? ---
**Author:** ![excavating\_for\_a\_mind](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/e/e8c25b/32.png) [@excavating\_for\_a\_mind](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/excavating_for_a_mind)\ **Post date:** [March 10, 2018, 3:11am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/dodge-dakota-driveline-issue-s/810305/3 "2018-03-10T03:11:22Z")
Have you checked the ATF level? ---
**Author:** ![beowulff](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/beowulff/32/542_2.png) [@beowulff](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/beowulff)\ **Post date:** [March 10, 2018, 3:16am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/dodge-dakota-driveline-issue-s/810305/4 "2018-03-10T03:16:07Z")
Check the U-joints. ---
**Author:** ![MacCat](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/maccat/32/216_2.png) [@MacCat](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/MacCat)\ **Post date:** [March 10, 2018, 1:13pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/dodge-dakota-driveline-issue-s/810305/5 "2018-03-10T13:13:05Z")
> [@Rocketeer](#): > > Sticky parking brake? I’ve probably only used it 2 or 3 times since I’ve had the truck, but anything’s possible. > [@excavating\_for\_a\_mind](#): > > Have you checked the ATF level? I always assume the mechanic does with oil change, but if I start it up today, I will. > [@beowulff](#): > > Check the U-joints. That’s been one of my concerns from early on but mech has said they’re ok. I’m sure that will be part of the diagnosis Monday. I forget what the symptoms were at the time, but a couple of years ago I took it to a transmission shop where a friend worked. I was expecting a diagnosis for a rebuilt tranny, but they said it needed a drive shaft rebuild, which solved the problem. Pretty sure that included the U joints. I wouldn’t hesitate to bring it back there, but I have other issues for my regular mechanic to take care of so I’ll see what he finds first. I’m hoping this is something like U joints, U bolts or center pins, rather than differential, transmission or transfer case. ---
**Author:** ![jz78817](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/jz78817/32/1028_2.png) [@jz78817](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/jz78817)\ **Post date:** [March 10, 2018, 2:23pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/dodge-dakota-driveline-issue-s/810305/6 "2018-03-10T14:23:37Z")
as far as the transmission goes, whatever you do, make sure you (or your mechanic) puts ATF+4 fluid in it. A huge portion of “problems” people have with those Ultradrive-architecture transmissions comes down to using the wrong fluid. Either you get old-timers who think every trans still uses Dexron III/Mercon, or someone buys generic “automatic transmission fluid” from the supermarket and dumps it in there. ---
**Author:** ![enipla](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/e/54ee81/32.png) [@enipla](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/enipla)\ **Post date:** [March 10, 2018, 2:25pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/dodge-dakota-driveline-issue-s/810305/7 "2018-03-10T14:25:42Z")
I _think_ that auto transmissions from that year depend a bit on a vacuum line from the engine to help it decide when to shift. It could be something as simple as a vacuum line leaking a bit. Hope so as it would be a simple fix. Also, sort of sounds like U-joints. Are you getting any strange vibration? Especially at speed? ---
**Author:** ![MacCat](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/maccat/32/216_2.png) [@MacCat](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/MacCat)\ **Post date:** [March 10, 2018, 2:35pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/dodge-dakota-driveline-issue-s/810305/8 "2018-03-10T14:35:21Z")
> [@jz78817](#): > > as far as the transmission goes, whatever you do, make sure you (or your mechanic) puts ATF+4 fluid in it. Appreciate the heads up. > [@enipla](#): > > I _think_ that auto transmissions from that year depend a bit on a vacuum line from the engine to help it decide when to shift. It could be something as simple as a vacuum line leaking a bit. Hope so as it would be a simple fix. Wouldn’t that be nice 🙂 > [@](#): > > Also, sort of sounds like U-joints. Are you getting any strange vibration? Especially at speed? No, not at all. All is good after those first hard clunk from the rear stops. ---
**Author:** ![jz78817](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/jz78817/32/1028_2.png) [@jz78817](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/jz78817)\ **Post date:** [March 10, 2018, 3:36pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/dodge-dakota-driveline-issue-s/810305/9 "2018-03-10T15:36:23Z")
> [@enipla](#): > > I _think_ that auto transmissions from that year depend a bit on a vacuum line from the engine to help it decide when to shift. It could be something as simple as a vacuum line leaking a bit. Hope so as it would be a simple fix. Also, sort of sounds like U-joints. Are you getting any strange vibration? Especially at speed? a 2001 would have the 45RFE or 545RFE, which are fully electronically controlled. ---
**Author:** ![MacCat](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/maccat/32/216_2.png) [@MacCat](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/MacCat)\ **Post date:** [March 10, 2018, 8:43pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/dodge-dakota-driveline-issue-s/810305/10 "2018-03-10T20:43:34Z")
Although reluctant to use the truck today, I did want to check the tranny fluid this morning. When I read the manual, it said to drive at least 15 miles before checking. I drove away very gingerly and no clunk upon stopping at all. On checking, the level was fine and the fluid looked very good. As it only happens for the first stop or three, I decided to go about a few tasks. Drove about 150 miles with no issues. Will probably sit all day tomorrow, so going by recent performance, I figure it’s likely to recur Monday morning when I take it to the mechanic. ---
**Author:** ![anomalous1](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/a/e56c9b/32.png) [@anomalous1](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/anomalous1)\ **Post date:** [March 11, 2018, 4:42am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/dodge-dakota-driveline-issue-s/810305/11 "2018-03-11T04:42:24Z")
A failing transmission mount in combination with bad engine mounts can cause similar jerkiness when upshifting. U Joint as well but not as pronounced. Not familiar with your vehicle but check the rear differential fluid too if you have that setup. If you were indeed driving almost 70K with a faulty transmission, you would be one of the few. It would have given out by now/you would know. Call me uninformed but I don’t think it’s the transmission, I sense a suspension problem. I also agree with jz8817, if you do have the transmission fluid changed, use at least Dexron 3. Also, avoid a tranmission “flush” if possible, just drop the pan, clean it, change filter and gasket and refill, do it again in another 20K miles. ---
**Author:** ![jz78817](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/jz78817/32/1028_2.png) [@jz78817](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/jz78817)\ **Post date:** [March 11, 2018, 10:37am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/dodge-dakota-driveline-issue-s/810305/12 "2018-03-11T10:37:06Z")
> [@anomalous1](#): > > I also agree with jz8817, if you do have the transmission fluid changed, use at least Dexron 3. this is exactly the opposite of what I said, and is a good way to get OP to destroy his transmission. ---
**Author:** ![pyromyte](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/p/d26b3c/32.png) [@pyromyte](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/pyromyte)\ **Post date:** [March 12, 2018, 2:21pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/dodge-dakota-driveline-issue-s/810305/13 "2018-03-12T14:21:20Z")
I had a 2002 Dakota with automatic (45RFE) and 4.7L engine. Back in 2008 or so, I had the same sort of jerkiness issue which eventually led to it feeling like it was reluctant to up-shift, with a big clunk when it finally did. I checked fluid, and everything looked fine, I eventually took it to a local shop that specializes in transmission work. Granted it’s been a decade, but if I remember correctly there was something with stickiness in the valve body, and it was something that Chrysler had recognized as a problem and had some revised components to fix (of course my warranty was long gone). I think I remember the shop had to rebuild the valve body with the upgraded components. Cost me about $500. I sold the truck (last year) to a guy here at work, and it is still on the road today and hasn’t had any more issues with shifting. Last I talked to the guy it had 280,000 miles on it. I also found this [website](http://etereman.com/blog/fiat-transmission/three-problems-with-the-dodge-45fre-transmission-that-are-easy-to-fix) which points to the shift solenoids being a common issue for that particular tranny. ---
**Author:** ![jz78817](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/jz78817/32/1028_2.png) [@jz78817](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/jz78817)\ **Post date:** [March 12, 2018, 2:30pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/dodge-dakota-driveline-issue-s/810305/14 "2018-03-12T14:30:54Z")
solenoid pack. sometimes the filter screens on them get plugged up with gunk if the fluid is left in too long. ---
**Author:** ![MacCat](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/maccat/32/216_2.png) [@MacCat](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/MacCat)\ **Post date:** [March 12, 2018, 11:18pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/dodge-dakota-driveline-issue-s/810305/15 "2018-03-12T23:18:08Z")
> [@anomalous1](#): > > If you were indeed driving almost 70K with a faulty transmission, you would be one of the few. It would have given out by now/you would know. Call me uninformed but I don’t think it’s the transmission, I sense a suspension problem. As regards to the heavy clunk when starting out, I’m also leaning to suspension like maybe U bolts and/or center pin. Next guess, rear differential/U joint/driveshaft? I don’t think the tranny is involved with that issue. > [@pyromyte](#): > > I had a 2002 Dakota with automatic (45RFE) and 4.7L engine. Back in 2008 or so, I had the same sort of jerkiness issue which eventually led to it feeling like it was reluctant to up-shift, with a big clunk when it finally did. The hard shifting has been there since I’ve owned it, but hasn’t gotten appreciably worse. Pretty much the only tranny issue though. I’m hoping the remanufactured unit I thought I needed pretty soon, is maybe ok for a while longer as long as other components are maintained. > [@pyromyte](#): > > I checked fluid, and everything looked fine, I eventually took it to a local shop that specializes in transmission work. Granted it’s been a decade, but if I remember correctly there was something with stickiness in the valve body, and it was something that Chrysler had recognized as a problem and had some revised components to fix (of course my warranty was long gone). I think I remember the shop had to rebuild the valve body with the upgraded components. Cost me about $500. I sold the truck (last year) to a guy here at work, and it is still on the road today and hasn’t had any more issues with shifting. Last I talked to the guy it had 280,000 miles on it. > > I also found this [website](http://etereman.com/blog/fiat-transmission/three-problems-with-the-dodge-45fre-transmission-that-are-easy-to-fix) which points to the shift solenoids being a common issue for that particular tranny. Some good info there, thanks. I called the mechanic this morning to postpone bringing it in, likely Wednesday. I’ll be going out to plow snow from the Nor’easter coming after midnight and that’s how I get to the plow truck. Going out for a test drive now, as it did sit all day yesterday and the problem has occurred after sitting for more than just overnight. ---
**Author:** ![MacCat](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/maccat/32/216_2.png) [@MacCat](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/MacCat)\ **Post date:** [March 13, 2018, 2:38am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/dodge-dakota-driveline-issue-s/810305/16 "2018-03-13T02:38:49Z")
> [@MacCat](#): > > Going out for a test drive now, as it did sit all day yesterday and the problem has occurred after sitting for more than just overnight. 25 miles, no issues. Looking forward to Wednesday (hopefully) diagnosis. ---
**Author:** ![MacCat](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/maccat/32/216_2.png) [@MacCat](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/MacCat)\ **Post date:** [March 16, 2018, 12:22pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/dodge-dakota-driveline-issue-s/810305/17 "2018-03-16T12:22:17Z")
So I dropped the truck off Wednesday, Thursday they repaired the other issues, but weren’t able to find anything for the concerning clunk. One of the issues I had it in for, was tailpipe hanging from the muffler connection. Replaced exhaust pipe, muffler & tailpipe. Mechanic said maybe the clunk was the hanging pipe hitting something, but to me the mass doesn’t seem possible to create that VERY hard slam. I’ll be heading out in a little while, so we’ll see if it recurs. I did have a previous driveline issue a few months ago that was solved by something that seemed unrelated. I was getting an occasional surge while waiting at a traffic light with my foot on the brake. The issue was resolved when the computer diagnosed coil packs, I believe, and no more surging.