# Doper men... Emergency! I really, really need your help... it's time to buy my first suit. **URL:** \ **Category:** In My Humble Opinion\ **Created:** [October 20, 2012, 1:27am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/doper-men-emergency-i-really-really-need-your-help-its-time-to-buy-my-first-suit/638293 "2012-10-20T01:27:03Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 20\ **Page:** 3
**Author:** ![RickJay](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/bb73d2/32.png) [@RickJay](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/RickJay)\ **Post date:** [October 20, 2012, 7:37pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/doper-men-emergency-i-really-really-need-your-help-its-time-to-buy-my-first-suit/638293/41 "2012-10-20T19:37:13Z")
Really, all the advice here can be distilled into “Go to a Men’s Wearhouse and tell them the same thing.” Explain to them precisely the same thing you did in the OP. They will help you out. Men’s Wearhouse isn’t where the celebrities go to dress for the Oscars by any means, but they sell serviceable, quality clothing and know enough about menswear to help you dress correctly. They’ll put you in a good suit, provide you shirt and tie combination options, and even help you with an overcoat. Don’t be proud. Tell them you need help. It’s what they do. ---
**Author:** ![August\_West](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/august_west/32/18069_2.png) [@August\_West](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/August_West)\ **Post date:** [October 20, 2012, 7:58pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/doper-men-emergency-i-really-really-need-your-help-its-time-to-buy-my-first-suit/638293/42 "2012-10-20T19:58:07Z")
> [@ReticulatingSplines](#): > > First of all, if versatility is your goal, don’t get a black suit. Charcoal or dark navy blue is advisable. I would also ditch the three-piece look, which on larger men gives you a distinctive Boss Tweed look that I don’t consider particularly favorable. > > 1. Either two or three buttons is okay, though two buttons is a more classic look. Larger men tend to look better in two-button suits. Regardless, for a two-button suit, button only the top button; for a three-button suit, button only the middle button. The top button of a three is optional, but I rarely see it as an asset. > > 2. Buy a suit that more or less fits you off the rack, not intentionally large. With that said, the tailor can alter just about everything except the shoulders. Make sure the fit is excellent there. > > 3. If you wear a white shirt, you almost can’t screw up the tie unless it’s overly garish. Match your belt and shoes, but do not, I repeat, do NOT match your pocket square with your tie. If they have a shared accent color, it’s okay, but that matched pocket square and tie look screams Macy’s boxed set. Matching your pocket square with nothing at all is perfectly fine (e.g., white shirt, blue tie, red pocket square). > > 4. A watch is nice. A lapel pin looks really smarmy to me, but to each his own. > > 5. Yes. Perfect answer. ---
**Author:** ![phxjcc](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/p/8491ac/32.png) [@phxjcc](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/phxjcc)\ **Post date:** [October 20, 2012, 8:33pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/doper-men-emergency-i-really-really-need-your-help-its-time-to-buy-my-first-suit/638293/43 "2012-10-20T20:33:39Z")
> [@Koxinga](#): > > I’d advise going to the full-blown Nordstrom, describing what you need and let the salesman take it from there. Those guys have to know their stuff, including what’s currently in fashion. If they don’t, they don’t eat and will be out on their ears within a week. Of course, you’re unlikely to get away for anything less than a grand for a basic ensemble, but you’ve got something that will last you at least a decade and will give you a good education of how to pick your next suit on your own. Little known fact…go to a Nordstrom Rack, buy a suit, then go to Nordstrom store and have them tailor it. Rack occasionally has “athletic” cut suits, which is probably what you want. Nordstrom stocks athletic cut suits. For your size, I advise also to go to Nordstrom. You are not at 42 regular. At 6’4" and 250 myself, finding a suit that did not have to be re-cut was always a PITA at men’s stores like MW. Pay attention to the _“drop”_–chest size to waist size. Most are 6", I took a 12-14" drop (48-50" CH/36-38" waist). If the _drop_ is not correct off the rack, it will _ **never** _ look good on you. as the pants will look like Bozo’s big pants in any suit for which the jacket fits correctly. Having the waist taken in just makes them look like bigger pants, with a small waist. [Re-cut: they take the suit pants apart, cut material out–and then sew it back together. There is usually a $100 charge, but well worth it.] Navy Blue suit, white shirt, red/blue tie. navy blue socks, black shoes. Done. Get shoes at The Rack. Consider double breasted. Nordstom also stocks necks up to 19" and sleeves up to 36 in shirts. FYI, hit the June men’s sale, most of their stuff is 25-50% off rack price during this sale. ---
**Author:** ![Quartz](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/quartz/32/267_2.png) [@Quartz](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Quartz)\ **Post date:** [October 20, 2012, 9:02pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/doper-men-emergency-i-really-really-need-your-help-its-time-to-buy-my-first-suit/638293/44 "2012-10-20T21:02:05Z")
You don’t say how much you can afford, but if you can afford it, go to a tailor. If you have the time for research, read Alan Flusser’s _Dressing the Man_. This will not only help with the suit but also the accessories. You’re also going to need a pair of decent shoes. One tip: I’m a similar height, but while I have a 40" waist, I find I have to have 42" trousers belted in or they’re tight around the crotch. ---
**Author:** ![August\_West](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/august_west/32/18069_2.png) [@August\_West](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/August_West)\ **Post date:** [October 20, 2012, 9:03pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/doper-men-emergency-i-really-really-need-your-help-its-time-to-buy-my-first-suit/638293/45 "2012-10-20T21:03:02Z")
The only thing I’ll add is to consider going outside of black for your shoes/belt. If you get a charcoal or navy suit, a pair of burgundy (or oxblood, merlot, cordovan (color, not leather), etc) shoes and belt look fantastic and can be that little detail that sets you apart from the average Johnny One-Suit and his scuffed black oxfords. ---
**Author:** ![Quartz](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/quartz/32/267_2.png) [@Quartz](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Quartz)\ **Post date:** [October 20, 2012, 9:07pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/doper-men-emergency-i-really-really-need-your-help-its-time-to-buy-my-first-suit/638293/46 "2012-10-20T21:07:58Z")
> [@Turble](#): > > Limit jewelry to a watch and a wedding ring. And, to a modest degree, cufflinks. Silver cufflinks - engraved, enamelled, or plain - can look great. ---
**Author:** ![RandMcnally](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/b782af/32.png) [@RandMcnally](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/RandMcnally)\ **Post date:** [October 20, 2012, 9:33pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/doper-men-emergency-i-really-really-need-your-help-its-time-to-buy-my-first-suit/638293/47 "2012-10-20T21:33:36Z")
If you can’t afford to go to a tailor then you really can’t afford to get a suit. Untailored suits looks horrid; like children playing dress-up. I’m weird in that I hate putting in my suit but I love how I look in it. You are getting great advice. When I bought my suit I splurged on Egyptian Cotton shirt and a silk tie. They both look great. It doesn’t make any sense to spend all that money on the suit itself but cheap out on other things. I always wear a watch with my suit, either my pocket watch or a wrist watch. To me there isn’t anything tackier than looking at a cell phone to tell the time when you’re all dressed up. If you use a wrist watch make sure the band matches your belt and your shoes. And make sure your posture is proper. You look good, act like it. ---
**Author:** ![Lancia](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/lancia/32/17174_2.png) [@Lancia](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Lancia)\ **Post date:** [October 21, 2012, 12:02am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/doper-men-emergency-i-really-really-need-your-help-its-time-to-buy-my-first-suit/638293/48 "2012-10-21T00:02:58Z")
Man, leave it to the dope to come through. You guys are awesome. Allright. Based on the advice in this thread here’s my game plan, subject to change if this thread still has legs and I’m continuing to get advice: Go to Men’s Wearhouse, and ask them to fit me into a) a wool, b) three piece [I know, but I want to see what it looks like. Will probably go for a two piece or simply forgo the vest], c) charcoal grey single breasted suit. I’ll try both two and three button, look at the difference. I will wear the shoes and belt to the store (I have both already). A white point-collar shirt, possible French cuffs, 100% cotton, from likely someplace other than MW. I’ll look at their selection, but will prepare to be disappointed. Nordstrom is literally across the parking lot from MW. I’ll try there as well, but my suit budget is $600 max. I suspect Nordstrom’s won’t like that. I might be able to find a nice shirt and a tie there and get the slacks / jacket [and vest :D] at MW. I’m disappointed that something as subtle as a collar pin is considered too flashy. On someone other than a dweeb they look good, IMO. Considering I have a beard it may be invisible anyway. I’ll try to look for a dark tie with a _very_ subtle pattern. Forgo the pocket square. Goggling for overcoats finds them to be VERY expensive, for the type that is worn over a suit jacket. I may simply have no choice but to skip it, unless I find some big bucks somewhere. ---
**Author:** ![Zebra](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/z/c0e974/32.png) [@Zebra](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Zebra)\ **Post date:** [October 21, 2012, 2:48am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/doper-men-emergency-i-really-really-need-your-help-its-time-to-buy-my-first-suit/638293/49 "2012-10-21T02:48:46Z")
[old Simpsons Quote]You! Conceal it.[OSQ] You can wear the overcoat when you don’t wear the suit. ---
**Author:** ![friedo](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/f/8edcca/32.png) [@friedo](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/friedo)\ **Post date:** [October 21, 2012, 4:29am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/doper-men-emergency-i-really-really-need-your-help-its-time-to-buy-my-first-suit/638293/50 "2012-10-21T04:29:40Z")
Your budget is good; $600 will get you an excellent suit at MW. I don’t know if they do three-pieces these days, though. ---
**Author:** ![TokyoBayer](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/tokyobayer/32/13989_2.png) [@TokyoBayer](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/TokyoBayer)\ **Post date:** [October 21, 2012, 7:24am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/doper-men-emergency-i-really-really-need-your-help-its-time-to-buy-my-first-suit/638293/51 "2012-10-21T07:24:43Z")
> [@Lancia](#): > > I’ll try there as well, but my suit budget is $600 max. Although it may have seemed too trivial for you to mention this in the OP, the budget is the most important consideration. Same as buying a car. Stay away from blended fabric. When you try the suit on, button it and see how the lapels go. Do they lay flat? Don’t get it if it doesn’t. Also move around in it. You aren’t modeling for the wax museum, you are buying clothes for a living person. When you buy your shirt and tie, take your suit with you. ---
**Author:** ![Quartz](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/quartz/32/267_2.png) [@Quartz](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Quartz)\ **Post date:** [October 21, 2012, 9:49am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/doper-men-emergency-i-really-really-need-your-help-its-time-to-buy-my-first-suit/638293/52 "2012-10-21T09:49:27Z")
> [@Lancia](#): > > I’ll try to look for a dark tie with a _very_ subtle pattern. Don’t. The purpose of the tie and shirt is to lead up to the head. This is explained in the book I recommended. Unless you’re going to a funeral, you want a tie which both complements and contrasts with your suit and shirt. Probably a diagonal stripey pattern. If you’re keen on accessories, consider a tie clip. ---
**Author:** ![Kent\_Clark](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/kent_clark/32/105_2.png) [@Kent\_Clark](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Kent_Clark)\ **Post date:** [October 21, 2012, 9:44pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/doper-men-emergency-i-really-really-need-your-help-its-time-to-buy-my-first-suit/638293/53 "2012-10-21T21:44:15Z")
> [@Jake\_Jones](#): > > What?! You’re old enough to be my father and you would wear your fucking ugly parka over your tailored suit? > > That’s beyond ridiculous. If you want to skip an overcoat because you don’t have one, fine. But wearing your bright yellow/red/blue North Face Parka over your suit will make you look like a clown. Your post of “business casual has ruined America” combined with “Parkas are just great over fine wool suits” is completely perplexing. I didn’t say “Parkas are just great over fine wool suits,” I said “The overcoat is not part of your ‘I need to look good tonight’ wardrobe.” The OP is going to a musical performance and a dinner. He is not going to a presidential inauguration where he will be sitting outside in full view all day. The idea of his spending another $500 to get an overcoat that really only fits right when he’s also wearing a jacket is what’s beyond ridiculous. If he were filthy stinking rich, had a closet full of suits he wore all winter or were going to Nome for this event, I’d talk about overcoats. But for one December night in Baltimore, it’s an unnecessary expense. ---
**Author:** ![Bosstone](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/b/22d042/32.png) [@Bosstone](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Bosstone)\ **Post date:** [October 22, 2012, 5:18am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/doper-men-emergency-i-really-really-need-your-help-its-time-to-buy-my-first-suit/638293/54 "2012-10-22T05:18:21Z")
> [@kunilou](#): > > 1. A dark suit should be made of wool, and the more wool the better. If you get wool blended with anything, it should be just polyester. Not rayon, or any of those made-up fiber names they sometimes use. If the fabric seems at all shiny, put the suit back and look for one with more wool. As for the shirt, the fabric you want is cotton. Your tie can be polyester, but make sure it has some heft to it. You know, I just went back and looked at my suit. I think it looks fine and not necessarily shiny, but it’s a rayon/polyester blend. Ah well…maybe it’s obviously a cheap suit, but I’m not going for the executive levels yet. ---
**Author:** ![GameHat](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/ed655f/32.png) [@GameHat](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/GameHat)\ **Post date:** [October 22, 2012, 5:37am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/doper-men-emergency-i-really-really-need-your-help-its-time-to-buy-my-first-suit/638293/55 "2012-10-22T05:37:45Z")
> [@August\_West](#): > > The only thing I’ll add is to consider going outside of black for your shoes/belt. > > If you get a charcoal or navy suit, a pair of burgundy (or oxblood, merlot, cordovan (color, not leather), etc) shoes and belt look fantastic and can be that little detail that sets you apart from the average Johnny One-Suit and his scuffed black oxfords. 100% agree ---
**Author:** ![Gray\_Ghost](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/c0e974/32.png) [@Gray\_Ghost](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Gray_Ghost)\ **Post date:** [October 22, 2012, 4:53pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/doper-men-emergency-i-really-really-need-your-help-its-time-to-buy-my-first-suit/638293/56 "2012-10-22T16:53:07Z")
> [@Lancia](#): > > …Goggling for overcoats finds them to be VERY expensive, for the type that is worn over a suit jacket. I may simply have no choice but to skip it, unless I find some big bucks somewhere. Agree with the MW advice. IME, they make o.k. to decent menswear, at a considerable budget. The staff at the one I went to were extremely helpful. I have two suits from them that have served me well over the years. I’ve had others recommend [Jos. A. Bank](http://www.josbank.com/menswear/shop/Home_11001_10050) for a similar market. I’m not sure how far $600 will go at either the Rack or the main store, which is another vote for something like MW or Jos. A. Bank. Having your own tailor do the alterations will be very good in making your clothes look like you spent a lot more on them than you did. A private tailor will probably cheaper than having Nordie’s do it for you, but I’m spoiled by having literally 50 or so different ones to choose from. That may not be the case in your area. I love French cuffs, but buying cufflinks is yet another expense, and one you can probably forego. Stick with point collar and regular button cuffs and you should be fine. Another vote for either charcoal or navy. I originally thought navy, FWIW. Really though, I came in to point out that thrift stores may have overcoats that’ll work for you. You’ll have to look far and wide—it’s harder to find good men’s clothes than women’s in a thrift store—but it’ll be a lot cheaper than you’ll find in a menswear shop. I am an easier size to fit than you, but I’ve found a couple that currently hang in my closet. (Irony, since I practically never need them here in E. Texas) I do think you’ll need one for anything outdoors in MD in winter. Are people really warm enough wearing a regular suit in an East Coast winter? ---
**Author:** ![RickJay](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/bb73d2/32.png) [@RickJay](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/RickJay)\ **Post date:** [October 22, 2012, 11:28pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/doper-men-emergency-i-really-really-need-your-help-its-time-to-buy-my-first-suit/638293/57 "2012-10-22T23:28:57Z")
> [@TokyoBayer](#): > > When you try the suit on, button it and see how the lapels go. Do they lay flat? Don’t get it if it doesn’t. Also move around in it. You aren’t modeling for the wax museum, you are buying clothes for a living person. Amen. Walk around the store a few times. In shoes. ---
**Author:** ![MichaelEmouse](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/michaelemouse/32/101_2.png) [@MichaelEmouse](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/MichaelEmouse)\ **Post date:** [October 23, 2012, 12:01am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/doper-men-emergency-i-really-really-need-your-help-its-time-to-buy-my-first-suit/638293/58 "2012-10-23T00:01:44Z")
100% wool charcoal three piece suit with flat-front pants for 600$ at Men’s Wearhouse: > **[Men's Clothing - Love the Way You Look | Men's Wearhouse](https://www.menswearhouse.com/)** > > New Low Prices on our Best-Selling Styles. Shop Men's Wearhouse New Arrivals & Collection Today! Find Top Designer Men's Clothing in Latest Styles, Fits & Sizes + Free Shipping ---
**Author:** ![Jimmy\_Chitwood](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/f475e1/32.png) [@Jimmy\_Chitwood](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Jimmy_Chitwood)\ **Post date:** [October 23, 2012, 1:12am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/doper-men-emergency-i-really-really-need-your-help-its-time-to-buy-my-first-suit/638293/59 "2012-10-23T01:12:35Z")
Since something like a consensus has developed, I’ll just renew my objection and say that I think you can do better than Men’s Wearhouse for $600. You can get an OK suit there, I’m sure (although in my opinion that Jones New York one ain’t it), but if you look around a bit you can actually get a good suit if you’ve committed to spending that much. Brooks Brothers 1818 suits, for instance, are regularly around $1000 and there are occasional 40% off sales, plus things like outlets, and they’re legitimately nice suits, including the fact that they aren’t fused, which as **ReticulatingSplines** said is important if you care about the thing lasting. You could even get something from Ebay and a few wearings down the line be in much better shape for the same money. Again, in my opinion. ---
**Author:** ![TokyoBayer](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/tokyobayer/32/13989_2.png) [@TokyoBayer](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/TokyoBayer)\ **Post date:** [October 23, 2012, 3:20am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/doper-men-emergency-i-really-really-need-your-help-its-time-to-buy-my-first-suit/638293/60 "2012-10-23T03:20:59Z")
> [@RickJay](#): > > Amen. > > Walk around the store a few times. In shoes. Watch it, I’m an atheist, buddy. 😃 I read somewhere that generals use tape in order to make their uniforms look so straight in formal pictures. The rest of us have to do things like lift our arms above our knees. [Previous page](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/doper-men-emergency-i-really-really-need-your-help-its-time-to-buy-my-first-suit/638293.md?page=2) [Next page](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/doper-men-emergency-i-really-really-need-your-help-its-time-to-buy-my-first-suit/638293.md?page=4)