My guess is that because wood is organic, and thus will have variations in density, the drill bits will sometimes flex in one direction or another.
S^G
That’s pretty much it. I’ve seen drill bits on a press waiver as much as 1/16" or so. I’m not saying you can’t do it with a drill press, but the chances of getting them crooked are still large enough for me to do it the way I do it…
Actually, what’s funny is the template I’m using was made from a late '50’s Tele that a friend of mine was working on at the time. Back then, these holes were drilled by hand. So the holes in the template itself are a little off of a straight line - by about 1/32". But if it was close enough for Leo Fender, it’s close enough for me…
I routed the pickup, control and neck routes today:
I had a little bit of an “oops” on the bridge pickup route and you can kind of see it in the pick. The router kicked a little on me and took a divot out of my template and the wood. It won’t affect anything though. Good thing it’ll be covered by the bridge:
See. 
The neck fits really well - slides right in like a puzzle piece…
BigShooter
That is one Hell of a job you’ve been doing. You don’t see workmanship like that on any factory made guitar.
It seems I may have joined this thread at just the right time. Your woodworking skills are remarkable. How are you with wiring an electric guitar? That is a specialty of mine. If nothing else I particularly like special switching arrangements for guitar pickups. Anyway, with 2 single coils, you don’t get much of a choice but there is a special switch you can buy that allows a fourth combination - both single coils in series. Here’s a link to the switch:
Fender 4 way switch
Personally, I have never bought that switch. I’d rather use toggle switches because I don’t mind drilling extra holes in my guitars. However, I can see that you might not want to start tearing into all that hard work you have put into it.
Here’s a photo of what I did to a Tele Style guitar:
I didn’t add that 3rd pickup but I ordered it that way. Notice the 5 toggle switches replacing the Tele switch? Yep that is my handiwork.
Anyway to me (and other folks), having the ablilty to put the 2 coils in series as well as parallel gives a much greater tone range. The series setting produces a louder tone that is much more suitable for a hard rock sound. If the guitar is not going to be used for that, you can pretty much wire it conventionally.
Hey wolf_meister - welcome to the thread!
Eonwe and I chatted by email about how he wanted his guitar to be. I asked him what kind of sound he wanted and he came at me with two particular artists - Springsteen and Tom Petty. With those two guys in mind, I figured a conventional Tele 3 way wiring was the way to go.
But, Eonwe, if you read what wolf_meister wrote above and want that 4 way switch with that extra tone option, it’s easily done at no extra charge. Just say the word…
**wolf_meister **- good to know you have electronics-fu. When my body gets out of the finishing process in, oh, 2011 
I have a pretty darn complex wiring dilemma to sort out…
…back to your regularly-scheduled build thread.
Hrm. Well, if that’s doable without sacrificing the tone of the “stock” options, and you’re up for it, it sounds like a cool idea.
Well, I see I sparked some interest in that option.
You can hear a good demonstration of changing from series to parallel in this you tube video:
Okay it is a Start™ style guitar but it will give you an idea how dramatic the tone change is when he switches from 2 coils in parallel to 2 coils in series.
Also, you can push that video at least a minute ahead because he begins that demonstration by choosing sounds from each of the 3 coils.
Actually, I was looking up the 4 way switch option and how to wire it and I have a question, wolf_meister.
Does the cover of the neck pickup need to be grounded? On Seymour Duncan’s page, he has a wiring diagram:
http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wiring-diagrams/schematics.php?schematic=tele_4ws
It has a note on there about the neck pickup’s cover needing to be grounded and then something about disconnecting the black wire from it first. What the hell is he talking about? Why do I have to ground the pickup cover?
The pickup cover? Hell, have you figured out how you’re going to ground the frets & tuners yet?
BigShooter,
I believe that the ground has to be disconnected because when coils are connected in parallel, the “ground” side always goes to ground and the “hot” side always goes to “hot”. However, when you wire pickups in series, what was once a “ground” side of one of the pickups now becomes the “hot” side.
Okay, not the clearest explanation but I think this aspect of guitar building should go to another message board and one of the best is Guitar Nuts 2:
http://guitarnuts2.proboards45.com/index.cgi
I don’t run it, but I’m a member there too.
I did the roundover edge today. I used a 3/16" roundover bit and my router. It still needs a little sanding in certain spots, but I got it smoothed out most of the way. Here’s how it looks:
And a wide shot:
Looking good so far…
I got the pickups today:
They’re Seymour Duncan Alnico Pro II’s. They’re great pickups. I use Seymour’s in my guitars almost exclusively.
So more random parts:
The body is almost ready for finishing. Just gotta drill the jack hole and finish sand to 320 grit…
I am going with Seymour’s in mine, too - but different ones. What led you to pick these particular ones?
BigShooter, are you planning to do any “comfort” contouring on the body? Either way, can you give an idea how difficult this type of shaping is for a woodworker? This looks difficult to me, but perhaps that’s why I don’t shape wood.
They’re good all-rounders. They’ve got a nice, well rounded tone to them - not too harsh, not too muddy. Which ones you going with?
Actually, doing contours is probably the most artistic and subjective part of shaping process. Every custom guitar maker will do them differently. Usually, I mark out where I want them to be and their depths with a charcoal pencil and then take a couple of spokeshaves, some 60 git sandpaper, and a specially made sanding block and go to town removing the wood. Once I get them close to where I want them, I’ll go to 120 and then 220 grit to buff out the scatches from the 60 grit…
Other luthiers may use grinders, jigs and a bandsaw, or hand and palm planes. It really just comes down to whatever method of wood removal is comfortable to them.
I wasn’t going to do contours on this guitar since Tele’s don’t usually have them. But I’m Eonwe’s bitch when it comes to this project, so if he wants them, he can have them. What say you, Eonwe? Do you want an arm or body contour? Or both?
Personally, I don’t really like contours on a Tele. They just don’t feel right. For me, Tele’s should feel chunky and thick when strapped on - in direct contrast with a Strat. Of course that’s just my opinion…
Thanks much for the elaboration; I had to google “spokeshave” 
Wow, that looks like a whole lot of elbow grease and precision. I don’t see how you can keep the depth symmetrical. For a “belly cut”, you’re shaping out a section that would fit on a 10’ sphere!
I’d totally go with the body contour, but hell, I’m in my late 40’s and have a belly, so maybe that’s just me. An arm-cut I can take or leave.
Nah, I’ll pass on those. Just a nice solid tele body.
Good. I didn’t want to do the work anyway…