NM
Yes, and also I enjoyed the video of Reinhold Messner speaking about the Jon Krakauer/Anitoli (sic) Boukreev Everest Controversy. It’s about 10 minutes long, IIRC. In it, Messner validates Krakauer’s description of Boukreev and his approaches to climbing and to guiding.
At the end of Ratcliffe’s book is a nice bibliography which I’m now using as a to-read list and as a reminder of books I read years ago. So far, I have read these:
Into Thin Air - Jon Krakauer (-- about 6 or 7 times now)
Everest: Mountain Without Mercy - Broughton Coburn
No Shortcuts to the Top - Ed Viesturs
The Climb: Tragic Ambitions on Everest - Anatoli Boukreev and G. Weston DeWalt
Above the Clouds: The Diaries of a High-Altitude Mountaineer - Anatoli Boukreev and Linda Wylie
High Exposure: An Enduring Passion for Everest and Unforgiving Places - David Breashears
Left for Dead: My Journey Home from Everest - Beck Weathers and Stephen G. Michaud
A Day to Die For - Graham Ratcliffe
Below, I have yet to read these - I especially want to read Groom’s because he was immediately there as one of the guides; Gammelgaard’s because she was immediately there as one of the clients, and she summitted; and Salkeld’s 2 books because she is the renowned Everest historian:
The Wind in my Hair - Brigitte Muir
Climbing Everest: Tales of Triumph and Tragedy on the World’s Highest Mountain - Audrey Salkeld
Emergency on Everest - Audrey Salkeld
Sheer Will - Michael Groom
Climbing High - Lene Gammelgaard
The Death Zone: Climbing Everest Through the Killer Storm - Matt Dickinson
I may have already said this, that I will need to renew my library card! Here is the complete bibliography from Ratcliffe’s book:
Excerpt From: Ratcliffe, Graham. “A Day to Die For.” MainStream, 2013-05-15.
Books. This material may be protected by copyright.
Check out this book on the iBooks Store: https://itun.es/us/f6_cA.l
FWIW, while Gammelgaard and Weathers both have interesting stories to tell, neither of them (or their respective ghosts) wrote a compelling book. I soldiered through Gammelgaard’s but only recommend it for the 1996 Disaster Completist.
Agreed, Weathers’ book was not a compelling story. I quicky skimmed over parts not directly related to the Spring 1996 climbing season. I found myself doing that for Ratcliffe’s book too, except that my focus included not just his Spring 1995 & 1996 climbs, but also his researching of the 1996 disaster.
You want a compelling story? Into Thin Air, easily. And then Broughton Coburn’s book makes for a nice coffee table book with its large format and excellent photography.
Here is the video for anyone interested.
Messner speaks about having met both Krakauer and Bougreev. He says that Krakauer’s description of Boukreev’s attitude and behavior was spot on with his own experience.
The comments on that video state something I hadn’t heard before. Someone claims that Scott Fischer and the Sherpas had tainted oxygen, that’s why they were sick.
Anyone know about this claim?
Sorry if it’s been covered but:
What are the best documentaries about the 1996 season (On Youtube)?