# Extending speaker wires

**URL:** <https://boards.straightdope.com/t/extending-speaker-wires/563297>\
**Category:** Factual Questions\
**Created:** [December 7, 2010, 6:12pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/extending-speaker-wires/563297 "2010-12-07T18:12:25Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 1\
**Page:** 2

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**Author:** ![johnpost](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/f17d59/32.png) [@johnpost](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/johnpost)\
**Post date:** [December 8, 2010, 7:33pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/extending-speaker-wires/563297/21 "2010-12-08T19:33:01Z")

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> [@Rhythmdvl](#):
>
> To crimp or not to crimp?
> 
> If it makes a difference, there will be little to no stress on the joints—wherever the splices are they will have support and either be inside wire channels or resting on a shelf behind things. I also assume that wrapping the splice in electrical tape before the shrink tubing will help keep the physical connection (with the tube protecting it from the harsh parlour environment).

Quality tape applied correctly can stay on without unraveling. For a absolutely quality splice for looks and durability, i would tape then heat shrink.

> [@Rhythmdvl](#):
>
> I have a soldering gun (though I’m not well-versed in its use), so both crimping and soldering are viable options. But as mentioned, soldering is a skill. While I’d love to learn and get good at it, I don’t think I have the short-term time to do so—so whatever connection is made will be passable at best.

i would not crimp when i could solder signal wires.

you need the lower heat level on the gun and be quick on heating the wire, having held tight and steady in the air is best.

it takes maybe a few practice splices to get good enough with speaker wire, that is a very forgiving application. get some extra speaker wire and practice 3 or 4 splices, 20 minutes time.

> [@Rhythmdvl](#):
>
> How would I test the quality of the connections? Can I, say, solder a connection then test with a multimeter(?)and get one reading then compare that to a different set of wires I crimped? To test would I need to connect the receiver-end wires together, making one giant loop? If I do that, how do I control for two different receiver-end connections between the crimped and the soldered wires?

after connecting both splices give each a wiggle, you should see no movement in the splice. disconnect wires from the amp and twist together with a wire nut (do this on the amp end only) and measure the resistance on the speaker end, it should be zero resistance.

> [@Rhythmdvl](#):
>
> What\* is \*it I’m looking for, anyway? Most stock speaker wire seems to be 18 gauge. The wire I have (both in-wall and the extension) is 14 gauge. What is a mediocre connection, and what is it choking off? This is where the audiophile hype clouds the issue. All I really know is that wires conduct magic smoke, and that magic smoke can be measured in amps, volts, and ohms, and that the wires may or may not be part of the resistance (Vive la fil!). Would a poor crimp or shoddy soldering job make the wires equivalent to 20+ gauge wire? Would it strip out all the upper-level di-harmonics? Cause a fire? :eek:

add on the same gauge wire as in the wall.  
yes a poor splice could make the wire equivalent to smaller or no wire.

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