But can it cook Brainzzz?
When I was a kid, my parents used to make calf brains for breakfast. Looked funny but ate OK. 
I have never fixed them myself.
Tried them once. Not with eggs; just a slice panfried and put on a sandwich w mayo & cheese. Once was plenty, thank you.
That makes sense, but it’s not true. I have an induction “hot plate” and it only works with magnetic pans. After doing some searching, it appears the problem with aluminum/copper is it conducts TOO good and the induced eddy currents don’t encounter enough resistance to create heat. That being said, I measured the resistance across two pans (one that works and one that doesn’t) and they’re about the same (couple ohms).
@Fluffy Bob - Interesting that yours is not as sensitive to moisture. We had friends visiting from England and they have an Electrolux cook-top (or “Hob”, as they call it) and they had the same complaint as we do. I assumed (based on a sample size of exactly 2 :smack:) that all were this sensitive. I do love ours for all the same reasons as you do. I’m still in disbelief at how fast it is. Unfortunately, the moisture shut offs are a deal breaker for me. One drop of water the size of a dime shuts it down.
We don’t have any issues about a whistling sound. I get a humming noise when the burners are on higher power. It sounds to me like the humming of electricity, so I guess it’s part of the mechanism. Our’s is subtle, so not an irritant.
I guess the moral of the story is ask about the moisture and whistling before buying.
@Chronos - good point, I don’t know how they work either, and I’m too lazy to Google, but as dougrb says, maybe some are too magnetically sensitive? They do tell you the best cookware for induction is cast iron so we’ve been checking out flea markets lately.
I don’t know if all units are the same, but with our Miele, it’s not like you try and it works poorly or you just sit there waiting. As soon as you turn the element on, you get an “incompatible cookware” error message on the display and it won’t turn on.
Mine does this. I think it’s just how it is. The extra prep space is nice but don’t drop anything heavy onto it or scratch the glass. Also, I’ve accidentally melted and nearly burned some semi-disposable resealable containers that I left on the cooktop then chose the wrong element dial to turn on. I really don’t recommend doing that either.
There is a pat-your-head rub-your-tummy calibration method on mine involving all the buttons on the digital control panel. It allows you to add or subtract displayed degrees to match actual degrees. It’s in the owner’s manual. I didn’t get a paper copy of my manual when I bought the house, I found an electronic one from the manufacturer. Post the model number and I can try to find a PDF version on the Kenmore site. Or google for number plus the words owners manual.
On the off chance that yours is the same, here’s what my manual has to say:
I believe that is not true. Induction heating works by inducing Eddy currents in a conductor by applying alternating magnetic fields from the outside. The amount of Eddy current is heavily dependent on the magnetic field inside of the conductor (in this case the bottom of the pot). The strength of the magnetic field inside of the conductor is governed by the field strength of the induction coil **times **the relative permeability. The relative permeability of non-ferromagnetic materials like aluminium or copper is in the range of 1. Ferromagnetic materials typically have a relative permeability of more than 1000. This dominates all other material properties for cases of inductive heating. E.g. differences in conductivity is also important, but the differences are only marginal compared to the magnetic properties.
If you want to use non-ferromagnetic pot on your induction cooker, you can buy ferromagnetic plates to put on your stove and then put your copper pot on top. The induction stove heats the plate and the plate heats the pot. That is only a workaround and certainly not an ideal solution. But if you have a special, non-ferromagnetic pot you want to use for a certain cooking task it is possibility.
I’ve had high-wnd gas stoves for decades, but I leave in the tropics, gas spills too much heat into the room. We’re building a new home, so I have been testing 3 brands of induction cooktops, I am switching to induction in our new home, I will still have a gas burner for our wok in the outdoor kitchen.
Induction has come a long way lately. I have not experienced any problems with water spills, and it heats and responds every bit as fast as gas.
I have a glass top electric stove and frequently use a cast iron griddle to sear meat after sous vide cooking. I’ve learned that the best way is to figure out the setting you need and just set it at that and wait. If you get impatient and set it higher and then try to lower for cooking you get into a hysteresis loop and you’ll never achieve a stable temperature. I usually put the griddle on the stove at least 10 or 15 minutes before I need it.
My glass top heats up pretty fast. It also stays hot a lot longer than old-fashioned electric elements and gas burners. Probably because of less surface area to radiate heat. The result is even less short-term heat control than old electric, but the heat is very consistent once the right temperature is found.
I cannot remember the model, but I have seen a combo stove top with something like one electric, one induction, and two gas burners, so you have the best of all worlds.
Search for Smeg Domino for stovetops you can combine.
So many typos. I think I was having a stroke.
More likely heat stroke from running your gas stove w/o your air conditioner.
Be careful out there. 