This is an accurate description of hiking in the Canadian Rockies- we’ve done it extensively the last 3 years and love it (Did Lake Ohara and Jasper’s Skyline this year), but we have ascribed a term, “Canadian Switchback” to describe some of the inclines and descents we have encountered. It was coined 3 years ago in the far outback of Banff (five days in) when we had just spent 3 hours going across a marsh/delta/stream bed adventure [a remnant of the horrendous floods of 5-10 years back] where the trails have not yet been reestablished. We finally get to the far side of the valley and I kid you not, the trail goes straight up the side of the mountain to the pass (800’ up in < 0.5 miles). We finally make it and start down the other side thinking “for sure they must have switchbacks on this side” but nope it is straight down. I had to “crawl” on all fours backward down a couple of sections. Halfway down there is a god-damn tree right in the middle of the trail. They chose to cut off the lower branches rather than make a switchback. Thus Canadian Switchback was born- when there really should be a switchback but Canadians and their ungodly powerful quads just didn’t seem to think the same way! And screw you too, Mr. Tree.
Next time you are out that way, I highly recommend the Iceline Trail in Yoho. It is well maintained! (albeit a bit crowded) but the views are ridiculous and the 3 glaciers you hike in front of are really cool. Although I recommend doing the full loop, there are obviously some ways to shorten the hike as needed. I think the Iceline Trail beats all hikes in the Canadian Rockies with the exception of Berg Lake/Snowbird Pass (in Mt. Robson Provincial Park) for beauty and just awesomeness.
I’ve summited HA Ling peak about a dozen times and I guess it is a bit rustic, although pretty par for the course for trails around Canmore and Banff. I’m not surprised it was recommended to you - it’s the trail I always suggest to out of town guests, but it is sort of grindy in the middle.
If you’re ever back, try Johnson’s Canyon. The first 2k or so are paved up to the lower falls, and the next 6 or so k up to the Ink Pots is a gravel pathway. I’ve seen people in wheelchairs or pushing strollers make it up so it could be a better choice if anyone in your group has mobility issues. It’s really beautiful as well and long enough to be interesting, and feel a little bit like exercise if that’s something you’re keen for.
My youngest twin is on the autism spectrum. While in pretty good shape, she doesn’t do well on uneven surfaces, so it was pretty hairy getting down from Ha Ling in one piece.
Johnson’s Canyon sounds great and I put it on my list if we make it back out there.
Hope the forest fires have been brought under control!
