# Gun question: diagnose my ejection problem. **URL:** \ **Category:** In My Humble Opinion\ **Created:** [January 23, 2006, 12:06am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/gun-question-diagnose-my-ejection-problem/341169 "2006-01-23T00:06:29Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 14\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![CynicalGabe](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/c/3e96dc/32.png) [@CynicalGabe](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/CynicalGabe)\ **Post date:** [January 23, 2006, 12:06am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/gun-question-diagnose-my-ejection-problem/341169/1 "2006-01-23T00:06:29Z")
My 1911 is have serious problems stove-piping. Today was the worst ever, with 16% of rounds failing to eject. In attempts to fix it, I’ve installed a new extractor with a longer hook and a commander-style ejector, which sticks out over the magwell much farther than the original GI one. Any suggestions to help me narrow-down and fix the problem? ---
**Author:** ![silenus](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/silenus/32/166_2.png) [@silenus](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/silenus)\ **Post date:** [January 23, 2006, 12:13am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/gun-question-diagnose-my-ejection-problem/341169/2 "2006-01-23T00:13:28Z")
When on of my .45s had a similar problem, the solution turned out to be the ejector spring. I had had a new one installed, and it was too strong. It kept jamming the brass on the way out. Give that a try. ---
**Author:** ![CynicalGabe](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/c/3e96dc/32.png) [@CynicalGabe](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/CynicalGabe)\ **Post date:** [January 23, 2006, 12:24am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/gun-question-diagnose-my-ejection-problem/341169/3 "2006-01-23T00:24:51Z")
Ejector spring? You mean the firing pin spring? ---
**Author:** ![Mr.Blue\_Sky](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/m/d26b3c/32.png) [@Mr.Blue\_Sky](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Mr.Blue_Sky)\ **Post date:** [January 23, 2006, 12:26am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/gun-question-diagnose-my-ejection-problem/341169/4 "2006-01-23T00:26:44Z")
> [@CynicalGabe](#): > > Ejector spring? You mean the firing pin spring? Isn’t the ejector spring inside the magazine? ---
**Author:** ![silenus](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/silenus/32/166_2.png) [@silenus](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/silenus)\ **Post date:** [January 23, 2006, 12:33am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/gun-question-diagnose-my-ejection-problem/341169/5 "2006-01-23T00:33:28Z")
Nope. I mean the little spring that keeps tension on the ejector. It sits behind the rear end of the ejector, in a little pocket. Must be exclusive to Llama, I guess. ---
**Author:** ![DirkGntly](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/d9b06d/32.png) [@DirkGntly](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/DirkGntly)\ **Post date:** [January 23, 2006, 1:06am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/gun-question-diagnose-my-ejection-problem/341169/6 "2006-01-23T01:06:33Z")
Are you using factory, or custom loads? If you are using custom or hand-loads, check the calibration on your reloading equipment - you may not be putting as many grains of powder in your rounds as you should. ---
**Author:** ![CynicalGabe](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/c/3e96dc/32.png) [@CynicalGabe](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/CynicalGabe)\ **Post date:** [January 23, 2006, 1:13am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/gun-question-diagnose-my-ejection-problem/341169/7 "2006-01-23T01:13:58Z")
Factory loads. This happens regardless of brand. ---
**Author:** ![CynicalGabe](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/c/3e96dc/32.png) [@CynicalGabe](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/CynicalGabe)\ **Post date:** [January 23, 2006, 1:15am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/gun-question-diagnose-my-ejection-problem/341169/8 "2006-01-23T01:15:44Z")
> [@silenus](#): > > Nope. I mean the little spring that keeps tension on the ejector. It sits behind the rear end of the ejector, in a little pocket. Must be exclusive to Llama, I guess. IIRC, the Llama is not a 1911 clone, it has many differences. ---
**Author:** ![ExTank](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/e/35a633/32.png) [@ExTank](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/ExTank)\ **Post date:** [January 23, 2006, 1:46am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/gun-question-diagnose-my-ejection-problem/341169/9 "2006-01-23T01:46:24Z")
> [@CynicalGabe](#): > > My 1911 is have serious problems stove-piping. Today was the worst ever, with 16% of rounds failing to eject. In attempts to fix it, I’ve installed a new extractor with a longer hook and a commander-style ejector, which sticks out over the magwell much farther than the original GI one. > > Any suggestions to help me narrow-down and fix the problem? Lemme get this straight: you’ve changed extractor _and_ ejector, and still have the problem? I wouldn’t think it was the ejector; my first suspect was the extractor, but if you’ve changed it, I’m kinda stumped. I might suggest switching back to a new, but stock extractor, though. If it was the ejector, I wouldn’t think you’d be having “stove pipes,” but rather the half-ejected problem, with a spent round wedged between barrel and upper receiver. The thing is, when the upper receiver slides forward “into battery,” the extractor _should_ engage at that time, and remain engaged as the upper receiver slides backwards from the recoil until it hits the ejector, at which point spent round goes bye-bye, and new round is stripped from the mag as the recoil spring sends the upper receiver back forward. But if you’re truly “stove piping,” that is the spent round not extracting at all from the chamber, and the new round in position to feed, but jammed into place because the old round is still in the chamber, I’d _still_ be looking mighty hard at the extractor were I you. How old is your recoil spring? If it’s getting worn, your upper receiver may be recoiling too fast for the extractor to “hang onto” the spent round. But that’s all I got. Do a fellow .45 lover a favor? Keep me informed of your progress in resolving this. I’d appreciate it. ---
**Author:** ![ExTank](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/e/35a633/32.png) [@ExTank](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/ExTank)\ **Post date:** [January 23, 2006, 1:53am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/gun-question-diagnose-my-ejection-problem/341169/10 "2006-01-23T01:53:27Z")
And for those who’re interested in what these mechanical thingamajigs and doodads are: [M1911A1.](http://www.m1911.org/partname.htm) But you may really need to see the M1911 is slow action to understand exactly how the extractor and ejector work as the upper receiver (slide) cycles though its recoil/return motion to dig it. Don’t try it with live ammo, though. ---
**Author:** ![CynicalGabe](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/c/3e96dc/32.png) [@CynicalGabe](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/CynicalGabe)\ **Post date:** [January 23, 2006, 1:54am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/gun-question-diagnose-my-ejection-problem/341169/11 "2006-01-23T01:54:57Z")
By stove-pipe, I meant that the spent case is either eticking straight up, jammed in between the slide and barrel, or is stuck horizontally in the same place. My recoil spring was a new Wilson Combat spring that came with a new full-length guide rod and recoil buffers. I’ve got 1400 rounds on it (and the gun) so far, but the problem has been there the whole time. ---
**Author:** ![ExTank](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/e/35a633/32.png) [@ExTank](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/ExTank)\ **Post date:** [January 23, 2006, 2:19am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/gun-question-diagnose-my-ejection-problem/341169/12 "2006-01-23T02:19:35Z")
[This](http://www.sightm1911.com/lib/tech/PDW_mods.htm) may have some useful (and potentially costly!) advice. > [@](#): > > **Throating** > > Most barrels, except the 70 and 80 Series Government models require throating and matching of the feed ramp to the barrel for any ammunition except hardball. Most of the 70 and 80 Series guns are roughly throated and may hang up with certain types of ammunition. Throating of the barrel and polishing of the feed ramp in the frame are cheap insurance against failure to feed. > > **Lower and teardrop ejection port** > > Government models normally have a smaller ejection port than Gold Cups and Commanders. Enlarging the ejection port makes them slightly more reliable. Even on pistols that have the lowered ejection port, we open up the port slightly more for increased reliability. This is a small, but important, point. > > Teardropping the ejector port is easier on the brass since the slide hits the case before it clears the ejection port and this modification breaks the sharp angle there. While I had previously believed that this is mainly a modification for reloaders, there seems to be some small, but definite, reliability increase with this modification. The slide strikes the cartridge lower on the brass and lessens the possibility of a “smoke stack” malfunction. ---
**Author:** ![CynicalGabe](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/c/3e96dc/32.png) [@CynicalGabe](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/CynicalGabe)\ **Post date:** [January 23, 2006, 3:00am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/gun-question-diagnose-my-ejection-problem/341169/13 "2006-01-23T03:00:01Z")
[A more likely cause:](http://www.custompistols.com/bengtson/articles/smoke.htm) > [@Smokestack Myths](#): > > Thirdly, heavier than standard recoil springs, shock buffs and other “recoil reducers” may, under some circumstances, produce an ejection malfunction similar, but not identical, to the smoke stack. This is most common in the Government model with the standard, short ejector. By slowing or stopping the full rearward movement of slide, the full impetus of the rearward movement does not serve to eject the shell. This form of malfunction is most frequently found when very light loads are used in a standard pistol, such as when an IPSC or self defense pistol is used for “steel matches” using very lightly loaded ammunition. The answer here is to either use a heavier load or to go to a lighter recoil spring. Shock buffs (or frame savers) are a good idea for practice sessions and matches (I carry the same pistols I compete with). Examine them carefully when you clean your pistol and replace them when they show signs of wear. I DO NOT RECOMMEND USING A SHOCK BUFF WHEN CARRYING A PISTOL FOR SELF DEFENSE. I put the shock buff in prior to the match or practice session and remove it when I get home and clean the pistol. Next trip to the range I’m going to try taking out the shokbuff and putting in the original spring. ---
**Author:** ![CynicalGabe](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/c/3e96dc/32.png) [@CynicalGabe](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/CynicalGabe)\ **Post date:** [February 1, 2006, 9:18pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/gun-question-diagnose-my-ejection-problem/341169/14 "2006-02-01T21:18:36Z")
Late update: I went to the range on friday, and once I replaced the original recoil spring and took out the buffer. Less comfortable to shoot, but the problem seems to have decreased. I’m going again on friday, I’ll try to get some statistics