Has anyone travelled extensively in Mexico?

[Spectre_of_Pithecanthropus]

@even sven

I’m sorry, jungles and ruins are awesome. The Yucatan is brimming with them and it’s a blast. One million billion times better than the surreal hell that is the created city of Cancun. Save the airfare and just stay at a resort at home.

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Staying at home wouldn’t do it for us…I live in L.A. and I really want to experience a warm-ocean beach. Anyway, aren’t there ruins that you can visit that aren’t far from Cancun?

[Moirai]

Yes. Chichen Itza, Tulum & Coba are day-trips from Cancun (2-3 hours by car). Other sites would require staying elsewhere.

And you live in LA but want a warm-ocean beach? You wimp.

[jlzania]

As** EJsGirl ** mentions, Chichen Itza and Tulum are great day options from Cancun, but the former is generally overrun with tourists and the latter is more a scenic site than anything else.
Uxmal is a very extensive ruin and usually far less visited because it’s not in close proxmity to Cancun.
Last time I was there, there were lizards than tourists running around.

[SmackFu]

Wow, thanks everybody. So much to ponder! And jlzania, you did more work in that post than my travel agent ever did…

[jlzania]

Once upon a time, Smackfu, I used to be a travel agent and when I had moderately adventurous clients who were actually interested more in the cultural and historical aspects of the Yucatan, they all loved that internary.

I ran out of time yesterday, but there is also a fun way to combine beach and ruins on the Eastern side of Mexico.
However, depending on which beach you decide to visit, your flights may require backhauling through Mexico City.
I believe that it is possible to take a bus to Puerto Escondido.

Fly into Oaxaco:

Oaxaca, the State Capital, declared Humanity’s Cultural Patrimony by UNESCO, owes its fame to the beauty and harmony of its architecture, the richness of its cultural traditions, the wide variety of its typical foods, and its soft temperate climate, spring-like throughout the year. Its name comes from Huaxyácal (the apex of the guajes, a variety of acacia, of Huaxín, guajes, and yacatl, summit). The Aztecs applied the name to the summit where they built a fortress in 1486. At arrival, the Spaniards founded, next to the old fort, the new Villa de Antequera, and a few years later, returned to the old Aztec fortress to erect, in the same guaje summit, a city that, in 1529 would be founded, built, and peopled as Villa de Oaxaca.

The Spaniards commissioned the city’s design to one of the best town planners of the Empire, Alonso Garcia Bravo, architect of Mexico City and Veracruz. Garcia Bravo laid out the city with cord. He began with the creation of a Plaza Central or Zócalo (Square), oriented by the cardinal points, and established according to a simple symbology: A Cathedral was built on one side of the square (over the Aztec’s place for their dead), on the other side, all municipal buildings, the basis for civil power. Thus, it was thought, the square would irradiate throughout the city, the balance between the terrestrial and the sacred, the Church and the civil power.

The city flourished during the Viceroyalty. It was taken by Morelos in 1812, and was under the General Bazaine forces in 1864. It witnessed the birth of the guerrilla uprising organised by Porfirio Diaz, State Governor. Aside from these episodes, Oaxaca has lived away from military history. The Spaniards designed it without walls, without defences, trusting that the Zócalo’s magic strength would protect it from all evil. As in effect, it has done.

The Zócalo continues to be, besides one of the most beautiful Central Squares in Mexico, the Life Centre of Oaxaca. The arcades that sustain the Palacio de Gobierno (Government Palace) and the surrounding buildings house restaurants, terraces, portals, and coffee-houses. People sit at the little tables, deep in conversation, from very early in the morning under the shade of enormous laurel trees from India….

In the middle of the Zócalo, between the Palacio de Gobierno and the Cathedral, stands, surrounding by laurels and bougainvillaea, the last European contribution to the magical equilibrium of the square: a romantic little kiosk where Tuesdays and Thursdays (sometimes on other days) the State Government Band plays all type of music.

The Zócalo extends toward the Alameda, and in the opposite direction, toward another smaller plaza. The original symmetry is almost intact. The vacant spaces have been occupied by a myriad of small stalls which offer fantastic animas of brilliant colours, amaranth seeds, sesame seed blocks, Spanish knives, cloth dyed with purple snails, cocoa ground with sweet corn, garbanzo beans in honey, crickets in guacamole, or fruit flavoured sherbets.

The Contemporary Art Museum is located there, many of the old colonial houses, various galleries, restaurants, and the most distinguished jewellery and handcraft stores. At the end of the Tourist Boulevard stands the exceptional Santo Domingo Temple, splendid example of Mexican baroque, with its altarpiece covered in gold, its impressive interior decoration, and the installations that include the State Regional Art Museum.

The Oaxaca temples are the most lavish of Southern Mexico. The image of the city’s patron saint, María Santisima de la Soledad, at one time had a crown made of pure gold, with 600 sparkling stones and diamonds. The Cathedral has fourteen lateral chapels of unique beauty. Then, La Merced, San Agustín, San Francisco, the church of the “Sangre de Cristo” [Blood of Christ], San Felipe, Santa Monica, and so many others that the city seems more like Salamanca, such is the profusion. However, the similarity with the Castilian capital ends with the numbers. In addition to singular Mexican baroque interiors, we find the original facades, now trimmed for fear of earthquakes, erected in green quarry stone. For this reason, some have called Oaxaca the city of the green temples and everyone admires the marbled effect acquired by churches after a rainy afternoon, as soon as the sun appears again.

Mirror of the State, the city’s museums have many of the most valuable regional treasures, such as the jewels of the Tumba 7 (Seventh Tomb) of Monte Albán. It counts also with the best representation of Oaxacan paintings, renown because of the work of Rufino Tamayo, Rodolfo Morales, and Francisco Toledo. Through its markets, exhibits and disseminates one of the richest and varied art productions in Mexico.

Of all the markets in the capital city, maybe the most famous is the “20 de Noviembre” [20 of November], specialising in foods and much visited by Oaxacans and capable of seducing, as the indigenous markets, just through the different aromas. At the entrance, you will find “chicharrones”, “cecina”, “tasajo” and “tripitas secas”. Then come the chocolate and bread vendors. All the way to the end are the “barbacoas” [barbecue] and eateries, where it is possible to enjoy a snack or a full meal at anytime. Meals such as, “tasajo de hebras”, followed by eggs in sauce with epazote leaves, “enmoladas”, “bean chilaquiles”, “quesillo”, and to finish, “frijolitos con hierba de conejo” and “chochollotes”, and a great cup of “atole blanco de granillo”.

Oaxac has been compared to Paris and it’s easy to explore. You’ll find many of the inhabitants speak English although, in the market, the older vendors often only speak Zapotec.
You can use Oaxaca as a base for exploring both the ruins and smaller surrounding villages.
It’s just as affordable to hire a guide or join a tour while there.
Make sure you spend a day exlporing Monte Alban and the surrounding archaeological sites:

The archaeological zone of Monte Alban, belonging to the Zapotec culture, is one of the most important in the area of Oaxaca. Its cultural development and monumental architecture has become representative of the region, and the Mesoamerican culture area. The prehispanic capital is located at the summit of a hill that rises in the southwest of Oaxaca City. It is located at 1948 meters above sea level (400 more than the level of the valley of Oaxaca).
The prehispanic name of Monte Alban has not been identified with precision. The most closely related descendants of the Zapotecs mention a hill that was known as Dhauya quch o Dauyacach, or the “Hill of the Sacred Stones”. On the other hand, the Mixtecs know it as Yucucui, or “Green Hill”. At the beginning of the 17th century, this spot came to be known as Monte Alban, owing to the fact that at that time, the lands belonged to a Spaniard with the surname of Monte Alban or Montalban.

Dr. Alfonso Caso, a Mexican archaeologist, led one of the first explorations and restorations of this archaeological zone. His project, completed in 18 stages, began in 1931 and finished in 1953. Based on studies of the architecture of the buildings, tombs, ceramics, and jewelry, he determined that the history of Monte Alban could be divided into distinct epochs based on social organization, population density, and exchange systems. In this manner he established 5 epochs designated as Monte Alban I, II, III, IV and V; beginning in the year 500 BC and lasting through 1521; each of these epochs is further subdivided. These epochs represent a total of 14 centuries of continuous occupation, plus six other centuries during which, for some reason, although the site had been abandoned, it remained important to the inhabitants of the Valley of Oaxaca. From this we recognize that the two cultures which made the prehispanic history of Oaxaca were the Zapotec and Mixtec.

The restored area contains the center of an ancient Zapotec city: Reaching 7 miles in total, this extends to more than 20 square km. The Main Plaza, the central area of the site, is surrounded by basamentos pyramids, terraces, plazas, patios and temples and palaces. Most of the stone architecture appears to have been constructed in the final epoch; however, in some buildings you can see that initial construction began in the first epoch, with later construction through the course of the centuries. The buildings are characterized by horizontal design, accentuated by staircases bordered by alfardos that finish with a wall, formed of double escapulario, a typical Zapotec version of the Teotihuacan talud-tablero theme. *The escapulario panel, a decorative element, is characterized by its silhouette in the form of an E, reclining and stretching, reinforced by its simple repetition, gives a unity to the diverse buildings of the site.

The most characteristic buildings surround the plaza: the Ball Court, Temple II, Temple P, East Palace and Temple Q (eastern side); the Ball Court stands out for its integrity, and the East Palace for the rooms it contains. Temples G, H, I and J (at the center of the plaza); Building J, considered to be the first astronomical observatory in Mesoamerica, is very characteristic due to the declining of its central axis relative to the other buildings, and for its reliefs designated de las conquistas. The South Platform (in the south) stands out because it is monumental and because of its reliefs at the base, which represent numbers, writings, and people that define chronological scenes and war. System M, the Wall of the Danzantes, Building L, Building K, and System IV (western side). The Wall of the Danzantes contains a series of stelae that, according to reliefs, represent humans whose movement suggest the name. Because of their physical characteristics they are considered to represent Olmec culture, identified as the oldest in Mesoamerica. Northern Platform, Sunken Patio, Buildings A and B, Bertice Geodesico Building (Northern Side). The Northern Platform is known for its size and because of the congregation of various platforms. Tomb 104, located at the back of the North Platform, is known for its mural paintings, dinteles, jambas with reliefs and clay funeral offerings. Tomb 107, where Dr. Caso found the treasures of Monte Alban, is located on the northeastern part, isolated from the main plaza.

The structures around the Main Plaza are diverse, and have been identified as living areas, tombs, and entire communities. The site’s museum is located at the entrance to Monte Alban, and there visitors can learn about the other sites to visit inside the archaeological zone.

The little village next to Monte Alban specializes in the production of Mescal.
On the way to Monte Alban, your guide may swing by the famous Tula tree:

The legendary Tule tree is located in the atrium of the Santa Maria de la Asuncion temple. Botanists have classified it as Taxodium mucionatum and believe it to be over 2,000 years old. It measures 135 feet in height, its perimeter is 139 feet (40 metres) in circumference and it is considered the biggest and oldest in the world. It has a volume of 24,893 cubic feet (705 cubic metres) and weighs approximately 1,119,844 pounds (509,020 kilogrames). The trunk and branches of this tree take different and capricious forms known popularly as “The Elephant”, “The Lion”, “The Three Wise Men” “The Deer”, “The Coconut”, and “The Fish”, among others. This enormous Ahuehuete adorns the central area of the community.

Another day should be spent visiting the indigenous villages with their wonderful craftsmen. Some local specialities include carved and painted wooden animals, the black pottery that Oaxaca is world famous for, and rugs.

Puerto Escondido is one beach option and I do recall an express bus that will take you over the mountains but you’d need to check more details:

The town of Puerto Escondido was established in 1928 as a port for shipping coffee, although the area has been inhabited by indigenous populations for centuries. In the 1960’s it was connected to other coastal towns by Highway 200. Tourists began to discover the town and surfers found its beaches. Its importance as a port diminished as coffee shipments began going by truck instead of boat. The port does continue to support commercial fishing activity.
Today, Puerto Escondido is a home for fishermen, surfers, vacationers, and an ecletic expatriot community. The large waves of Zicatela beach put it into the top ten surfing destinations. It does not cater to the high end tourist as much as Huatulco to the east. Its sprawling beaches host numerous small to mid-size hotels and restaurants

Playa Principal is the main beach in town and runs parallel with the adoquin or pedestrian area of town. Restaurants, boating, swimming, snorkeling.
West of the lighthouse is a small cove with beaches Playa Manzanillo and Puerto Angelito. Very calm for swimming and snorkeling but watch out for boats that come and go. There is a restaurant with restrooms at Puerto Angelito. You can get there from Playa Principal by boat or go northwest on highway 200 for 1/2 mile and turn left on Calle Miguel Hidalgo at the old airport. At the billboard turn left again and go down the dirt road to the beach.
Also northwest of town is a pair of small beaches called Playa Carrizalillo. A small stream enters the ocean at the smaller beach and locals wash their clothes here. Good swimming, snorkeling, and scuba diving, lots of coral and fish. To get to these beaches, take highway 200 northwest for 1/2 mile, turn left at Avenida Miguel Hidalgo. The area is under development, so it would be best to stop at one of the shops or restaurants and ask directions from here. There are now steps (167 of them) leading down the cliff to the beach.
Playa Bacocho is northwest of town past Playa Carrizalillo. Take highway 200 northwest toward the airport and follow the signs to the Best Western Posada Real. This is one of the longest beaches in the area. There is a restaurant. Swimming may be dangerous due to heavy surf and undertow.
Just past the lagoon at the southeast end of Playa Principal is Playa Marinero. Restaurants, swimming and snorkeling, but watch out for currents at the southern end of the beach. To get there, walk down Playa Principal to the southeast or walk down past the end of Avenida Alfonso Pérez Gasga.
One of the world’s best surfing beaches is Playa Zicatela, especially during the months of July, August, and September. The 10-mile long beach has several restaurants and hotels. Not good for swimming, extremely dangerous. To get there, walk southeast along Playa Principal or take highway 200 southeast and turn right at Bungalows Villa Marinero onto a paved road which leads to Hotel Santa Fé and continues south along the beach.

Another beach destination that I love would require changing planes in Mexico City.
However, if you have the time and money, you could also consider flying to Zihuatanejo.
I much prefer it to the more touristy resort of Ixtapa and although the two are right next to each other, the flavour of each is very different.
Zihuatanejo still has a very laid back feeling:

Zihuatanejo, down the coast (southeast) from Ixtapa is an old fishing town on a picturesque sheltered bay that is only 1.6 miles wide.

Tranquil & pleasant Zihuatanejo Bay
Until the advent of Ixtapa, Zihuatanejo was hardly known even among Mexicans. With the advent of Ixtapa, Zihuatanejo began to grow and the little dirt streets were paved with decorative brick. Yet, the town retains its original charm, traditions and congeniality. The easily walkable central area (el centro), with small restaurants, shops and a delightful brick-paved beachfront promenade (paseo del pescador or fisherman’s walk) is only a quarter of a mile wide…

For those wishing to venture outside these two spectacularly beautiful resorts, small fishing villages such as Troncones and Barra de Potosi make wonderful day trips.

Make sure you take the boat to Playa Las Gatas while you’re there-it’s a short ride by boat, the snorkelling’s good and the beach is beautiful.
Also spend time lolling on the sand and people watching at Playa La Ropa
Some other interesting beaches nearby include:

Barra and Laguna de Potosí-South of Zihuatanejo, this lagoon and beach constitute a birdwatchers paradise with tours by kayak or boat. Excellent fresh seafood is available from the beachfront Enramada restaurants.
and
Ixtapa Island-The Island’s 4 beaches are wonderful for snorkeling and other water sports & adventures. A number of good seafood restaurants are situated on the island Accessible via taxi boats leaving from the Playa Linda area.

Hope I just didn’t confuse you with more choices.

[GusNSpot]

In 1961, I could have been a big help to you…

Racing 18 wheelers in our Transporte, de Norte bus at night in the mountians outside Montery on a 2 lane highway … no one was sleeping let me tell ya…