Originally there was downtown Las Vegas, platted in 1905 by the San Pedro, Los Angeles, and Salt Lake Railroad into forty three-hundred- by four-hundred-foot blocks, subdivided by alleys. This was a normal American urban grid pattern of the time, producing optimal frontages and building lots designed for rapid sale and easy development. The drawback, common in the American West, was a monotonous geometry unrelieved by focal points, terminal vistas, diagonal thoroughfares, or other grace notes of civic design – though one block at center was reserved for “public purpose” – say, a courthouse or a plaza. The streets, at eighty feet, were uniformly too wide to produce a pleasing ratio of spatial enclosure – another common western practice. They were designed to permit horse-drawn wagons to turn around without circling an entire block. (This was a cultural carryover from earlier times that would shortly be obsolete; 1905 was only two years before Ford’s introduction of the Model T.)
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The modern, post-World War Two Las Vegas of the famous Strip, Highway 604, now Las Vegas Boulevard, lies wholly outside of the incorporated town and its original grid. It is under the jurisdiction of the Clark County. The Strip developed where it did for several reasons: Taxes on gambling and hotel rooms were lower outside the city proper, desert land outside town was very cheap, and the bulk of visiting thrill-seekers arrived by car from Los Angeles, a seven-hour drive then, four hours nowadays, and they expected the usual autocentric amenities associated with L.A. life – that is, parking, parking, parking. The El Rancho Vegas, Siegel’s Flamingo, the mob’s Desert Inn, the Frontier, the Sand, the Sahara, Riviera, Dunes, Stardust, Aladdin, Tropicana, and so on were thus deployed at half-mile intervals along the highway to provide a certain cushioning separation between establishments. . . .
By the late 1960s, the desert to both the east and west of the Strip began to fill in with houses and apartments for the ever-growing population of hotel and casino workers and with el cheapo shopping plazas to service the houses. The Strip runs basically north-south, with a slight northeast dogleg halfway up. The major east-west arteries were named after the casinos that occupied each regular interval of the Strip: Sahara Avenue, Desert Inn Drive, Flamingo Road, Tropicana Avenue. The problem from an urbanist’s point of view was that this pattern for future development was based on blocks one-half-mile square – in some cases even a mile square – with six-, eight-, and ten-lane streets between them. Buildings went up along the edges of these blocks but the deep interiors of the blocks did not necessarily ever develop. . . .
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. . . [T]he distances between things in Las Vegas were so vast, the scale so exaggerated (even by West Coast standars), and the heat so punishing, that the automobile became an indispensable prosthetic organ. For instance, it was just five blocks from the Tropicana Hotel to the Liberace Museum. It didn’t look like much on the rent-a-car map. But in reality it was a trip of nearly three miles down a ten-lane boulevard without continuous sidewalks, past innumerable strip-mall parking lagoons, chain-link fences, berms, hydrological earthworks, filling stations, and other unimaginably tedious landforms, in blaring sunlight that could elevate the ground temperature to above 125 degrees. Lawrence of Arabia would not undertake such a trek.