Often, yes.
Sometimes there’s interoperability, but that can come with its own issues with setup unless they’re all the same manufacturer and even then compatibility will vary.
If running network cables isn’t feasible, this is a case where the Ethernet over power line can be useful to provide a wired connection between the wired access point and the router.
My network is a mix of wired Ethernet, WiFi, and a handful of power line adapters. Mine are older 200 Mbps units, but I find them handy, especially if you need a wired connection in a location temporarily.
I’ve neve seen this work in person (tried a few times). I know it can work and some people use it but it seems in a more modern home with a modern fuse box this just does not work.
Again…I know it can work and might be a good solution. But it is not a foregone conclusion that it will work.
Cheapest/best/potentially most work - pull some wire to a central location where you want more coverage and instal an Access Point.
Think $50 per AP. Easily upgraded and maintained.
Most convenient/expensive/good enough - one of the “mesh” options.
Convenient/cheap/YMMV - “range extenders”.
Convenient/cheap-ish/YMMV - powerline stuff: for some they work great, for others a never ending source of frustration.
I do not know how your property is layed out: for many people moving their router/AP to a less terrible, more central location (not in the basement/some closet with a lot of wiring) solves all their WiFi woes.
Is this the Eero that works for posters above? The link says $75.99 but the actual page says that it’s discounted to $49.99.
You need more than one to make the mesh work. That’s their “trick.”
Your link is only for one. I suppose one will work but that is not different than your current router really. So, you really want 2+.
It seems Eero has made a router and an extender. The router will be more expensive (this is what connects to your outside internet). The extenders may be cheaper. Not 100% sure. Be sure to check. You still want two or more.
Oh, so I would have to use 2+ Eeros instead of my current router, so that’s what makes it expensive.
I’ve had very spotty success with these too. They will most likely give you some bandwidth, but almost never a full gig connection. It helps if both adapters are on the same 120V leg of your 240/120V feed.
Another vote for a mesh system. I have had this one from Monoprice for about 2 years now (bought when the price was 3 times now), and it has been flawless. It comes with 2 satellite units, but I guess my 2-story house isn’t big enough to need more than one. The signal even carries outside into the patio and yard for quite a distance.
You can make any plain router into a wired access point and wired switch if you are moderately technical.
Login to the router (standard “first setup” procedure.)
Give it an IP address valid on your current network that does not conflict with other devices.
Disable its DHCP that hands out IP addresses.
Connect it to your home wired network with one of the local ports. (Without DHCP, the internet port is not useable.)
Configure the Wifi.
I like to use the same wifi name/password as my current, then my devices will grab whichever access point signal is faster and stronger.
The key here is turn off DHCP. A router hands out addresses that include itself as the “default gateway”. Otherwise, it simply bridges signals between the various local ports and its wifi.
Most routers and AP will not use wifi to bridge to another wifi unless they specifically have a “bridge” mode. IIRC the old Apple Airport devices had this; some more expensive home routers also have this mode.
I solved my WiFi issue (very poor reception in my bedroom, constant dropped signals / disconnections) by moving the router 3 feet. It was partially obstructed by a wall. I was surprised that the move made a real difference.
Yes, consider what it’s going to to get from A to B. Wifi in schools, for example, benefits from being high up so it’s not trying to go through two layers of sheet steel in the row of lockers. My Tesla needs a booster repeater unit nearby because the washer and freezer unit are between the car and where the main Wifi point is. The same goes for kitchen appliances, some bathtubs and shower stalls, etc. It’ could be sheet steel, possibly multiple layers.
I’ve had to put a repeater in someone’s house because the sunroom was an add-on and had a thick exterior wall between it and the rest of the house. I put a repeater adjacent to the opening into the house, in “radio line of sight” with the wifi source, and the reception was much better - they could stream Netflix reliably. If your exterior wall is stucco, it likely has a metal mesh behind it.
My wifi range is better now, but could still be improved. Has anyone tried this hack, putting a sheet of aluminum foil behind the router?
Why You Should Put Aluminum Foil Behind Your Router (msn.com)
I have not tried this (my WiFi works well so no need in my place).
It seems it might help by reflecting signals back at the antennas. But, no idea really. It seems an easy thing to test though (might take a little time to fuss with it and record several speed tests).
If you do it I would be interested in the results you get.
In the early days of WiFI I read about a group trying to see who could get themost distance out of WiFi. One group mounted their Wifi transmitter and receiver at the focal point of large sattelite dishes (those old satellite TV dishes that were 6 feet or more in diameter) and got 3 miles out of it.
I suppose if you don’t need the signal to go the other direction, a metal reflector behind the wifi point would enhance the signal.