I don’t know how much suction we get from the mw vent. It replaced a mw that just ran the hot dirty air through a filter, and it’s worlds better than what it replaced. There is still a hole in the wall where a dedicated vent once emptied. But someone replaced that with a mw (that wants to vent at a slightly different height) before we bought the house.
So yeah, if you are remodeling your kitchen, try to put the range on an external wall so you can vent hot air outside. It makes a big difference both in terms of heating up the kitchen in warmer weather and also in terms of removing smoke and tiny droplets of fat from the kitchen air. Those filter things are a waste of space.
This was the coolest epiphany. My very first DIY in my very first house, I was standing in the bathroom doorway looking at bare studs, pipes, and drain holes in the floor wondering what I’d gotten myself into. After maybe 4 seconds of despair, I remembered what had started it all–the towel rack had pulled off the wall (such things have a cascading effect in my head, and I end up distrusting ALL craftsmanship under the roof and must redo everything). First part of the reconstruction phase was to place horizontal 2x4s between the wall studs centered at 44 inches from the floor, and the back wall of the tub was 3/4 inch plywood to accommodate grab bars wherever they would be wanted. Anything worth building is worth overbuilding. I also don’t use 14ga wiring for new work, just 12ga.
Yeah, been there. The backing is important. SOMEONE will grab a towel bar for support sooner or latter. Drywall anchors are only as strong as the drywall.
A house is like a human. The leg bone is connected to the ankle bone. And on, and on and on. You often find that a simple job isn’t.
When I bought my first (and only house, I’m still here) My Dad said “You know, you didn’t buy a house, you bought a job”. And the house was in fine shape.
In the last 42 years I have (or have been a VERY large part of)
Rebuilt my Mothers kitchen and bathroom.
A kitchen and two bathrooms in my brothers house.
Designed and built a two story addition to my own house.
Completely redid two bathrooms and a kitchen in my house.
That’s just the tip of the iceberg. I could go on.
I and my brother both have all of the tools to do this stuff. But at 62 years old… I’m over it. I’m now a programmer by trade. What takes me all summer to do can be done with a ‘pro’ and a crew in one month or less.
But while I don’t get in the way (and often help) you need to keep an eye on contractors IMHO.
And most people don’t buy houses outright, they have a mortgage, and thus are home owers. Also, every house has something broken in it or on it. A brand spanking new house has a door, knob, faucet, flooring, molding, window problem somewhere. Something always needs fixing.
Sometimes when Discourse stuff is fighting me the workaround is to just click the [Reply] button on the post, then the quote bubble in the editor to insert their whole post. Then copy that into a fresh post or edit it down to remove the parts I don’t need to restate.
It works fine for me too, once I figured out that I’d been trying to quote the quote in Dung_Beetle’s post, and not chela’s original post. But I don’t know for sure that that’s it, because I think I’ve usually been able to quote part of somebody’s post along with part of what they were quoting, and that doesn’t work either. Maybe I’m just remembering wrong and haven’t actually been able to do that.
As you can see, quoting part of a post that itself quotes part of another post just works. Highlight the part you want and click the ["quote] pop-up.
I find almost everything is twice as hard and three times as flaky on a phone versus a real mouse-and-keyboard computer. What sort of machine & browser are you using?
Desktop Mac, firefox. I don’t even try to do these boards on a phone, or even on the iPad; I’m impressed that others can pull it off, though I expect they’re using a better phone for the purpose than I have. I’m sometimes clumsy even with the mouse, and it often takes me multiple tries to do anything on a touch screen, interspersed with undoing whatever I did by accident.
But I think you may need to quote some of the main post in addition – no, there’s something just weird about that post, or about my interaction with it. I can’t get a quote bubble out of not only any portion of the quoted post, I also can’t get a quote bubble out of Dung_Beetle’s post in combination with any portion or with all of the quoted post from chela, which I’d swear I’ve repeatedly done with other posts in the past; though I can get one out of Dung_Beetle’s post on its own, or out of chela’s if I navigate up to their original post.
– and I still wonder if standing on a concrete floor isn’t hard on the feet and legs. I do some work on a concrete floor in the packing shed, but if I’m working very long in there I either stand on a mat or sit on a stool. Maybe that’s also what @chela does.
No not really standing in one spot for very long. We were considering tile but decided against it for various reasons. Surprisingly this floor feels “softer” than bare concrete. The kitchen is at the back of our lower level walkout. It stays cool in summer but water lines do sweat out. Partly why the area under the sink was not built up with cupboards so we can keep air moving. The garden window is only 2 ft above ground.
Thanks! I did talk mine into it! He was on board with an epoxy coating but thought we were limited to browns or grays. I checked the internets and discovered color! Found a local epoxy tradesman, its hand mixed so no two are alike. Very pleased Can get slippery when wet though he added fibers to prevent slippage.
My sister saw it and asked so what goes over this? Lol. It’s done!
Will do it again maybe stormy grays in another room.
Interesting metric. I’m about to have a workbench made for my use, and I wonder if that ought to be my goal.
That would be 34"-35", which is just slightly less than the standard height of kitchen cabinets. If it were 37" I could roll a tool chest under it, which would be awfully convenient.
There are size recommendations, of course they entirely depend on both your height and what you’re doing on the bench!
A bench for a hand tool woodworker needs to the right height to use a plane, while one for a machinist is usually (often much) higher.
I just tested my counter surfaces and standing straight with hands flat on the surface gives me a slight bend in my elbow. I’ve been thinking I’d like the counters just a titch higher, actually, because I find myself leaning over to do stuff and it bugs my back after a while.
I think I originally saw that for kneading bread; but I’ve found it accurate for a lot of other work I do. But I agree that it depends on what you’re doing.
Do you have, or can you create, a temporary surface to try using before you make the permanent one?
As a former furniture maker, it’s worth considering the height difference of the various things you’re describing.
A 2-D puzzle will effectively be at the same height as your bench. Case work (ie, any kind of cabinet) and lots of other things that woodworkers might build may stand a couple feet higher than the bench top while you’re working on them or gluing it up.
Some people add an ‘assembly table’ to their arsenal that may be a different height than their primary workbench.
I don’t expect to be doing casework. Honestly, gluing small items that have broken may be my most common use. I want to be able to clamp a piece of wood and saw it, though.