So, your penis is too small?
D&R:D
Xema, the optional limited slip differential is available on the Rangers, but even then the rear right is still considered the “primary” drive wheel. I’ll try and scare up a link for ya.
6 years in NNY with lake effect, 4 years with an 85 Nissan p/u and 2 with an 02 Dakota, both 2 wheel drive.
I wouldn’t recomend putting the weight behind the rear axle. It will take the weight off of the front axle, this is good for drag racing, since they generaly go straight on dry pavement. If it is slick enuf to require extra weight in the back, it is slick enuf to make turning exciting. It is no fun to turn the wheel in either direction and still go straight, more fun if their is a tree, wall, deer, small child, etc in the way.
After the 1st winter I put all the extra weight in the front of the bed so both axles had more weight on them and didn’t have any problems with going, turning and more importantly stopping. This also leave the rear of the bed open for cargo, or extra salt durring the salt runs to the salt pile. This is good when one has a camper shell or a toneau cover over the bed.
And it helps to slow down, can’t say how many times I have seen 4X4 in the ditch or snow bank because the driver was going too fast.
But now I am in Riyadh and that has its own challenges.
The UvulaMobile is a '92 Mazda 2wd 5-speed pickup.
My advice is removeable weight between the wheel wells in back, over the axle where they do the most good. I use two 50-pound bags of sand and a 50-pound bag of salt. The weight is there for traction, and I can use the sand and salt directly on the road if I get stuck in icy conditions. (And you don’t need a big shovel in the bed of the truck, either - I just keep a GI E-tool behind the seat in the cab.)
I wouldn’t bother with chains. They’re a pain in the ass to put on and take off, and if you have a good set of radials and some weight you’re not going to get much of an advantage from chains anyway. The Mazda handles just fine in the snow, giving me no real problems even when the snow is eight or ten inches deep.
I agree that chains are a pain in the ass. However, chains will provide a tremendous amount of traction over a set of radials.
I have a plow truck with Mud/Snow tires and chains on all 4 wheels. I wouldn’t be able to plow my drive with out chaining up (I never use the truck on the road, so I don’t have to bother taking them on and off).
And there are times when I’ve had to chain up my SUV (yep it’s 4x4).
Yep, chains are a pain, but they make a huge difference.
Open differential or limited slip, the wheels should be getting equal torque under normal situations. However, the axle also has to counteract the torque of the driveshaft, and this tends to unload one of the wheels and it is this wheel that usually loses traction first. On my Ranger, the right rear is the wheel to lose traction first, which makes sense since viewed from the front, the driveshaft is rotating clockwise and would tend to twist the axle closkwise also.
But then again, I’ve never heard of one wheel being called the ‘primary’ drive wheel. I’d be interested in looking at the link if you can find it.
Chains = The best way
Depending how thick and heavy the snow is, it can be very effective on its own for weight.
A small truckbed full of snow would quite easily be a few hundred pounds, I suspect. I wouldn’t bother buying sand or cinder blocks if its a freak occurance and just use what mother nature gave ya.
Dag, not the best cite in the world, but it has some discusion on the limited slip difs that Ford uses:
But they are discussing an Expidition, so now you have me second guessing myself. Back in the old days of positraction and LS I am certain that there was a primary drive wheel. These days? I guess I’m not so sure. Looks like a job for GaryT. Gaaaaarrryyyy!!!
Thanx. I have a '97 Ranger and will be buying sand this weekend.