Yeah. I use a standard rock climbing harness on my roof. It also adds the additional element of having to worry about the rope always in the way.
I would hire it out, but first I would check the references of the person I plan to hire. There must be a way to check the work before you pay. Maybe a water hose?
I agree with this entirely. The only purpose of rain gutters is to prevent water from backing up against the foundation, which proper drainage design should prevent anyway. Gutters on residential houses were an innovation intended for thoughtlessly constructed suburban houses in which drainage was not considered in the landscaping, and should be completely unnecessary.
Although I am not as blasé about the hazards of working atop a multi-story building as chiroptera having seen first-hand injuries from falls when working for a roofing contractor and having had a co-worker die from a fall off of a two-story house similar to the description of the o.p., I have to agree almost entirely with his summary of the issues of trying to use a fall harness and the cost and complexity of using scaffolding and manlifts.
One additional problem with harnesses that no one has yet addressed is that they are really intended to only protect against falls of less than six feet, and as anyone who has fallen that distance during rock climbing can tell you even that far is a painful, back-wrenching drop. A fall or climbing harness requires either someone to belay you (top rope) or for you to use an autobelay device in order to control the fall distance. The first means someone has to pay attention and play out/retract line while you clean and repair gutters; the other is a significant expense (as you should be using a device rated for outdoor operation, not a simple mechanical “autobelay” like a GriGri), and both require some way to anchor the pulley and route the line such that it doesn’t abrade during use, neither of which are practical.
As far as scaffolding and manlifts, not only are they expensive to rent, but improperly assembled scaffolding or an incautiously placed light manlift can be more dangerous than just working directly from the roof. Both require training and dunnage to use correctly, especially in the case (as with the o.p.) of operating on uneven or soft ground. The roof (presuming it is asphalt shingles) is at least a regular pitch and a firm, high traction surface. A shaker or tile shingled roof is a different animal in which case you should probably bring in a professional anyway.
As far as the leaking seal, that is probably something you should have a professional roofing contractor–not a guy who cleans gutters, but someone who replaces roofs–fix for good, which will be expensive but will save you money in terms of future water damage and repairs. My opinion of roofs built on suburban houses is about in line with the consideration given to drainage; as the primary protection against the incliments the roof should be well-designed and robust, but most are afterthoughts with little consideration given to correct drainage, sealing, and insulation.
Stranger
I like our gutter/downspout system because they make it easy to fill rain barrels which we use for landscape/garden irrigation during drought.
Sure, but that is a secondary benefit, not the primary function of rain gutters as they are generally employed. Properly designed houses with appropriate overhang and good drainage shouldn’t need gutters and all of the maintenance to maintain them.
Stranger
Rent a boom truck, saving money isn’t worth the risk. If you’re doing this repair, you’ll need to focus on doing the repair. I think the problem with lanyards and cabling is you’re still hanging half your body over the edge three stories up trying to do something you probably don’t do very often.
A “guy with a truck and a ladder” is also known as a scab. What you want is a REAL Construction Contractor … someone with insurance and a bond; and, if required, a license. Some jurisdictions require that you have this information in hand before you agree to have the work done. Any honest contractor will be happy to provide this information if you ask.
It’s expensive, but just add it to the resale value of your home and collect the interest until you do sell.
Stranger - Water is that bad for buildings, drain it away by any means possible. Downspouts should empty at least five feet from the foundation.
If someone uses a harness, how do they attach it to the house?
I was thinking the same thing. I’ve done this type of work and I’ve never used a harness, although I do think it’s smarter to use one. I’ve never seen a place to attach a harness either. Maybe a chimney?
I would go with a lift truck, especially on a house the op described.
the attach points have to be numerous. you only want to fall 6 feet. if you attach to one point you will gradually have lots of slack rope.
Best answer, hire someone, use a hose test. I recommend this, honestly.
Second best answer, climb on this low pitch roof, SIT YOUR ASS DOWN, and crawl around slowly. You may look stupid, but it’s unlikely that you’ll fall.
The amount of ignorance in this thread is utterly shameful. It is amazing to me how many posters are completely and totally inept when it comes to simple home projects. I’m not talking about the op, I’m talking about all the answers like rent a cherry picker or set up scaffold. If anyone giving those answers, has actually done any of it, I’d eat my ladder.
Don’t give advice if your have no idea what you’re talking about.
If the op is struggling with cleaning out his gutters, how the hell do you think he’s going to manage learning how to run equipment, avoid power lines, set up outriggers, shit we probably have to teach him how to drive a trailer to even get the damn thing out there. And we don’t need him up there all worried about pfps ropes and harnesses.
Keep it simple, know your audience.
Fisha~roofer, contractor, not a fucking moron…
Quite a few “interesting” ideas for a $75 job. Let’s rent a boom truck. Let’s erect scaffolding.
I started Cleaning gutters, mowing and raking yards when I was 14. It’s really not hard. Typically takes about thirty minutes to clean the gutters if there’s already a hose hooked up to flush them out. I typically charged half of what I charged to mow a yard.
The safest possible way is to use a cordless leaf blower. 1. tie a rope onto the leaf blower 2. Get on the roof and carefully bring the rope with you. 3. use the rope to get the leaf blower onto the roof 4. stand a safe distance from the edge (3 ft) 5. blow out debris. 6. walk around and get all the gutter area blown. 7. reattach rope and lower leaf blower to ground. 8 use rope to get garden hose on roof and flush out gutters
The advantage here is the OP never gets close to the roof’s edge. He can stand up right and not risk losing his balance. Also, it’s a good idea to avoid carrying anything heavy or bulky while climbing a ladder. A rope is an easy and safe way to get items on a roof.
I’ve cleaned my gutters a few times with a leaf blower. Most times I find it quicker to just use my hands. But that involves reaching over the roof’s edge.
It really helps having somebody, anybody. A grandmother, wife, or kid on the ground to turn the water hose on/off.
A person by them self can do it, but it sure saves time if someone can turn the hose on/off for you. Just be careful they are out of the way before spraying water. People get cranky when they get wet. I always shout a warning before letting the hose drop to the ground when I’m finished.
Go rent a small version of one of these. No roof climbing needed.
That’s what I would do. it might cost ya but if you don’t trust anyone else doing it, then this is the way to go, especially on a two story house. These things are easy to use too.
Honestly, I wouldn’t want to wear a harness while standing on a roof of a two story house only because in the past when I’ve worn them, they just get in the way. I still don’t see where he would attach a harness on a roof either.
Which is why houses should be sited and landscaped to naturally drain away water as previously indicated. Honestly, if they aren’t, the house will experience foundation damage regardless of whether you dump water from the roof away from the house or not.
Just for grins, I checked with the local United Rental on the cost of a 32’ trailer boom lift and a 34’ 2WD self-propelled manlift (JGL and Genie, respectively). $220/day for the trailer lift, $250/day for the self-propelled straight boom lift, not including transportation to/from the job site. (The o.p. has access to a truck with a 10,000 lb towing capacity and a heavy flatbed trailer, right?) The trailer lift is somewhat more flexible as it has outriggers which can allow it to be used on uneven ground (provided you use proper dunnage or support), but of course you have to let it down and use the truck to relocate it every time you run out of reach. The self-propelled lift can be driven (slowly, carefully) while the operated is elevated, which is convenient, but can only operated on up to about a 5% grade. Larger 4WD “off-road” lifts can be operated on steeper grades but will cost significantly more. Of course, as previously noted, using the lift incorrectly may also result in injury or death, which is unfortunately all too common with inexperienced operators.
Still think renting a boom lift is a good idea for the DIY handyman looking to save a few nickels over paying someone to do it for him?
Stranger
Option 1 - never get off ladder: Climb up, use hands / hose (I suggest a trigger sprayer) to clean a section. Climb down, move ladder, repeat. Danger here is leaning too far left/right.
Option 2: get a gutter cleaner hose attachment like this:
Don’t know if they make 2 or higher story ones though.
Do they make drones with water sprayers???
Brian
Don’t most people just stand on the ladder to do this stuff? Just put the ladder up where you want to start the work, do as much as you can reach from the ladder, then climb down, move it 10 feet and do it again.
How much have you been paying them? Perhaps you might want to invest in something a wee bit more expensive – it’ll save you in the long run. (Maybe they even need replaced?)
You know what they say, “pennywise, pound foolish.”
It depends on how level the ground is. My yard is on a slight hill. I can reach the roof on one end with a 8 ft stepladder. The other end of the house would take a 12 or maybe even a 14ft telescoping ladder. Working from ladders on uneven ground is even more dangerous than getting on the roof. Ladders can tip over very easily. I like having having a helper steady a telescoping ladder while I work.