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Really …
Q) How badly does the OP want to get scammed?
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Have you had the thing listed since you first posted in September and still haven’t sold it?
Especially if you pulled up in the Bentley!
I blame Obama and the economy 
I’m not in a hurry to sell so I started high and gradually coming down in price every two weeks. Maybe not the best strategy.
Ah, okay that makes sense. I was going to say I’ve sold plenty of cars on craigslist and I’ve never had a major problem with the scammers. But I usually price 'em to sell, so my ad doesn’t sit there very long and I get large numbers of actual responses. I guess since the higher price doesn’t deter the scammers, you’ve got a bit of a signal-to-noise ratio issue.
I agree that you’re doing a lot of limiting of your buyers if you insist on cash. I hate any kind of cash transaction and would absolutely refuse anything over a thousand dollars or so, if I want to spend that kind of money there’s another seller out there that will accept a non-cash payment. Also, if a buyer needs to finance it the bank is going to give them a check with your name on it, not send them out with a suitcase full of cash.
OK, I got a real-life person that is not a paypal scammer. Here’s my new quandary. He is offering about $2000 less than what I am asking. I may split the difference (it does need about $1000 in basic body work but that is accounted for in the selling price) or take his offer as the down and payments of $400 per month for 5 months or $200 per month for 10 months (0% interest), etc.
I’m assuming that I have all of the rights of a financer including right to repossession, requiring insurance, etc. All I want is the threat of repossession if he doesn’t pay the $2000 [simple really] so are there any templates online I can find to write as a (Colorado) contract for this arrangement?
I’d keep haggling. There is NO way I’d agree to the financing, it has the potential to be a huge pain in the ass. Cash or nothing if you don’t want it to be a hassle.
The reply did say he had the cash for his price but my thought is that he caould always get a little more (borrow from parents) and it may just be easier to discount a grand to make the sale and so I can say “You’re already getting a deal and I took $1000 off so shut up about at most $1000 in body work.”
BUT
If he can only get $6000 and can pay some per month I’d rather not let this opportunity go, in part because I’m using some of the money to fund my UK visa application/support and I need the money in the bank for 90 day before I can even apply.
I would not act as a lender to a stranger. Let him get a signature loan from his bank or credit union, and pay you cash. Or he can get a loan from someone who knows him. Or you can let him make payments, but he doesn’t get the title until he pays off the car completely.
If you’re OK with selling the car for $6000 and see any extra money on top of it as a sweet sweet bonus, then go ahead and sell the car.
You can write up the most legally enforceable contract in the world for that $1,000 - $2,000 but the thing is that YOU have to be the one to enforce it if things go wrong, and that’s just a huge pain in the ass.
I agree with Lynn.
If he doesn’t pay, what would you do next? Take him to small claims court? Do you know how to garnish wages? The amount he’d own is too small to cover the legal costs of any sort of collection.
Chances are small you’d ever see the remaining payments. Have him get a loan, settle on a lower price, wait until he has the total, or wait for another buyer.
Regarding title: who insures the car? What happens if he gets in an accident and you’re the title owner?
IANAL, and neither are you. The sums here are too small to bother with a lawyer, so stick to simple answers, or decide what risks you’re willing to take.
Repo the car which I admit is more of a hassle than the $2000- he’d owe.
As for garnishing wages? Yes I know how to do that and bank account seizures too.
Well if you know all that then what are you asking us for? 
Personally I’d tell them $6250, take it or leave it. And be prepared to leave it.
You’re repoman?
Tons of the Paypal/Shipping scam still. Why can’t these people use proper English mechanics? I really wish I could figure out a way to stick it to one of these people in a way that wasn’t fraudulent by making them actually pay for the car and then they can’t get their money back.
Ah, but they will never actually pay for the car. The whole point of their scam is getting you to THINK they’ve paid for the car.
I’ve heard of certified checks being forged, but cashier’s checks are much harder to forge. Make sure you conduct your sale on a weekday and verify the check with the bank that issued it. The good thing about cashier’s checks is that they cannot be canceled by the issuer. The payee (you) has to authorize the cancellation (or verify the loss/nonreceipt of the check) and sign a written release for the check to be voided or the money to be reclaimed from you. Cashier’s check is probably the best and safest way to go besides cash.
I was reading up on that. Either immediate chargeback or the fake paypal webpage. The more I read up on this scam, the more I’m amazed any seller uses Paypal with its complete lack of seller protection.
New one today. $1000 down and a promise to make payments. Mrs Cad’s reaction to the offer: :rolleyes:
Told him I would work with him if he wanted to finance through a bank/credit union.
I’m thinking of asking a mod to move this to IMHO since it’s now more of a blog on selling a car on craigslist than an actual question.
So one guy wanted me to discount my car by a grand even before he saw it. Now since he is looking at a car priced $3K below mine, he told me I need to meet that car’s price if I want to sell mine this weekend.