How important is it for all 4 tires to match?

Joking, right? :confused:

I always change all four at once. Always.

We used to call the process “shaving”; it’s not a joke but it was expensive and it was terrifying to watch it done as the new tread you just bought is cut away. It was done to ensure that none of the tires on a car were not out of round. (My experience goes back to the 1950s so take it with large amounts of salt. Tires have come a long way since then.)

Good story about it here, with reference to why you still might want to do it.

Glad you know more about it than some of these guys
The Michelin mans says:

The tire Rack:

Or maybe the Tire Industry Association:

Thanks for the link. It’s nice to know that I’m not yet completely insane but I am closing in on it. Shaving tires was more of art than a science, probably due to less than optimum equipment for the job.

That seems really counterintuitive to me. Less weight in the rear end of a FWD vehicle should make the rear tires wear even less, not more. Or so you’d think.

Shaving tires is standard procedure for sedan race classes that have to use a spec tire. About 1/2 original tread depth is where the serious guys start with a new set. Unless I’m out of date, Tire Rack will shave and ship.

Odd sized or mismatched tires, whether on an axle or in a fancy all-wheel-drive setup like BMW’s XDrive, will chew the hell out of the transfer case and front and rear diff clutches. A BMW X3 - for example - has a transfer case that holds 1 liter of $80 fluid that only comes from the BMW dealer and said case has no dipstick. Originally the fluid was “lifetime fluid” but BMW changed their mind and now it is to be changed. Point being, this is a fairly delicate unit with a “rebuilt” cost of around $5K. To protect it, the ABS, DSC and tire pressure systems will not accept a tire diameter above or below a certain range without setting off all sorts of alarms. BMW really, really wants all tires to be the same size…a pretty good argument for keeping matched sets on the car.

With 2wd, obviously you are only concerned with one axle at a time being matched, and as stated above, some cars come with staggered sizes anyway. Personally, Tire Rack notwithstanding, I will not be driving in any kind of weather in a FWD car with bad tires on the front and new ones on the rear. I’m guessing way more people have understeered off a wet road than have looped it.

I ran into a version of this on a 2WD Suburban which had a habit of using up rear brake pads at a rate about 3 times as fast as the front…exactly opposite of what you might expect. Research showed GM had diddled the front-to-rear brake balance to prevent “nosediving” at stoplights and had the back brakes going on first. Is it possible something like this is going on with your car? Either on purpose or by accident?

It seems implausible that the rear tires - aligned and inflated properly - on a FWD car would experience much wear at all compared to the front drive and steering wheels. Maybe you need your proportional valve redone/replaced to have more braking in front and less skidding of unweighted rear tires.

No joke.

Not convinced that I have been doing things wrong for the last 50 plus years, I posted the question on a British Classic Car web page asking where would you place the two new tyres and the consensus who replied said definitely on the front.

I feel that I regulate my speed for road conditions and over the last 50 years have never lost control of the rear of a car, but should I have to take avoiding action of say a child running out in front of the car, I would prefer to have the new tyres on the front where the braking pressure is greater and also to be able to take avoiding action.

So you don’t believe the professionals who tell you the facts, but you do agree with other equally misinformed people.
I to have owned LBCs and I participate on a couple of online mailing lists for LBC owners. The lack of technical knowledge on those lists is amazing.
I would not hold up the collective (lack of) wisdom of a bunch of LBC* owners as a reason to do anything.
But hey what do I know, I’ve only been doing this shit for over 40 years professionally.

  • for those playing along at home LBC= Little British Car, think MG Trimuph, Austin Healey etc.

I used to run tires until the cords showed. Yes, I know that’s bad, but I was broke back then. I always kept the better tires on the front because getting a blowout on the rear 's a lot less dangerous than on the front. This was generally on RWD no power steering cars, but also on one FWD car. Have a blowout on the front of a manual steering car, and it gets hard to steer real quick. Power steering helps some, but it still pulls hard to the blowout side.

Maybe that’s why people stick to the better tires on the front concept.

My suggestion, Rick, is that you professionally put your new tires on the back and the rest of us who own repair shops, drive race cars and live in the mountains will put them on the front, O.K.?

I think I now know why American Cars don’t go round corners as well as the European cars do.

Must be something to do with the best tyres on the back.

Yeah, that must be it, the factory puts half-worn tires on the front. :rolleyes:

:rolleyes:
Yes unlike those great handling British cars.
Second best selling car with a plastic body after the Corvette.

I currently have a car with four different tires on it. Doesn’t seem to affect the handling at all in normal conditions. Maybe in extreme circumstances it might make a difference. As far as I know the whole matching tires thing started with bias ply and radials. Since almost all tires are radials these days I don’t think it makes as much difference as the old days.

1963 Corvette. 5358 cc - Top speed 142 mph

1964 Shelby Mustang 4735 cc - Top Speed 119 mph

1962 Jaguar E Type 3781 cc - Top Speed 150 mph.

1962 Aston Martin DB-4 3670 cc - Top Speed 140 mph

1962 Ferrari 250 GTO 2953 cc - Top Speed 185 mph

And the European cars go round corners.

Here’s two times we’ve discussed it before:

But people remain unconvinced. How about video evidence?

You can tell that under the same conditions, the car with the poor rear tires loses control well ahead of the car with the good tires on the rear. How can you argue with that?