How many feet can you run wire from electric meter?

[Crafter_Man]

@PoppaSan

The proper method is to run a short wire of the proper size that fits the lugs and then splice it to the larger wire for the long haul. For me every splice point is an additional failure point.

I agree on the last sentence. That’s why I think using a larger gauge wire and snipping a few strands is the best method for decreasing voltage drop.

[Tim_T-Bonham.net]

@Arjuna34

An electrician would cut off a few strands, like you suggested, without a second thought. An “official” method could be crimping large pin terminals onto the wire - the “pin” part of the terminal would likely fit in the lug.

Or they would replace the lugs with larger sized ones. (Though it might be cheaper to just replace your 200A main switch with a larger one.)

[aceplace57]

I know this is obvious, but it’s worth saying.

Use a multimeter to check your voltage after running the long wire. Compare the voltage at the house. The difference is the voltage drop.

If you get at least 105V at the end of the long wire, you should be ok.

[Crafter_Man]

@aceplace57

I know this is obvious, but it’s worth saying.

Use a multimeter to check your voltage after running the long wire. Compare the voltage at the house. The difference is the voltage drop.

If you get at least 105V at the end of the long wire, you should be ok.

At max current, of course. In other words, turn everything on before making the measurement.

[ZonexandScout]

@Crafter_Man

Dumb question time:

Let’s say I want to run 0000 gauge aluminum wire between my transformer and meter, but the lugs on each will only accept 000 gauge and smaller wire. I go ahead and purchase 0000 gauge wire. After stripping off the insulation on each end of the wire, can I just cut off of a few strands so that the wire can fit in each lug?

From a strictly electrical POV, I don’t see the problem in doing this. But perhaps there’s something in the NEC that prohibits this?

Per NEC, all terminations must be “thoroughly good without damaging the conductor.” An electrical inspector would fail you for trimming strands. I would not take the chance. If something happens where a post-incident inspection is made, the defect would be noted.

[Crafter_Man]

@ZonexandScout

Per NEC, all terminations must be “thoroughly good without damaging the conductor.” An electrical inspector would fail you for trimming strands. I would not take the chance. If something happens where a post-incident inspection is made, the defect would be noted.

Thanks for finding that!

IMO they should make an exception for trimming back strands. Because even though the conductor itself might be defined as “damaged,” it would in no way lead to a failure.

[Melbourne]

@Crafter_Man

Thanks for finding that!

IMO they should make an exception for trimming back strands. Because even though the conductor itself might be defined as “damaged,” it would in no way lead to a failure.

That’s a bad place to be trimming back strands. It’s the point with worst problems with heat, mechanical leverage, and odd bits of metal poking out.

If I was required to make a good join to a small lug, I would trim the conductor well back from the log, band it at the trim point, and re-insulate the pigtail.

But you can /buy/ lugs with any mixture of values for the two ends. And adapters. So the need to make pigtails is rare.

[GusNSpot]

@Melbourne

That’s a bad place to be trimming back strands. It’s the point with worst problems with heat, mechanical leverage, and odd bits of metal poking out.

If I was required to make a good join to a small lug, I would trim the conductor well back from the log, band it at the trim point, and re-insulate the pigtail.

But you can /buy/ lugs with any mixture of values for the two ends. And adapters. So the need to make pigtails is rare.

My problem is with your last sentence. Only Pete from Crete who hangs around the corner of ‘F’ street and the ‘tracks’ will give me a loan big enough to do that connection correctly. I can’t afford his ‘vig’ so I had to do some ‘farm’ style modifications. I did put them on the back side so I hope that if ever looked at, it will be missed.

I also never load an electrical line as heavy as ‘they’ claim it can be loaded. I have also worked with the ‘road’ crews of rock & roll shows so I have learned a few ‘tricks’ that take care of emergency’s. (“emergencys,” I wanted plural, not possessive but the computer got the last say. :: Grump ::: )

[Crafter_Man]

@Melbourne

That’s a bad place to be trimming back strands. It’s the point with worst problems with heat, mechanical leverage, and odd bits of metal poking out.

Hmm, yea, I can sorta see how that could happen; if you cut back on a few strands, and then all of the strands are flexed a little bit as you’re trying to insert the wire into the lug, then the cut ends could dig into the adjacent strands that are not cut. I hadn’t thought of that. Perhaps it would be O.K. if the cut strands were bent back 180°? But then you would have “hot” strands being exposed. where fingers could get to them. Hmm.

[K2500]

Giving the wire a haircut is done often, especially in a pinch, but it’s generally looked down on. On larger conductors it’s a simple matter to partially nick or nip the strands you want to remove and wiggle them back and forth a bit. Fatigue will set in quickly and they’ll just kinda fall off leaving the remaining piece laying in a decent orientation. This is why you don’t ring your wire while stripping it and instead cut it back, similar to how you’d sharpen a pencil.

Pin connectors and splices would be my preferred methods if oversize lugs won’t fit panels. Well made splices will likely outlast the equipment they are connected to.